Exhaust heat paint

[GS700Jim]

My 4-1 header is rusty, no chrome in sight, I would like to either sandblast or sand clean and paint black. Anybody have advice on how to do it right and what paint is best for exhaust? also, why the heck is it directly under the oil drain plug.. man is that agravating or what!!!

 

[Hap Call]

Sandblast it to "white" metal. If possible select a day when humidity is very low and wind is nonexistent. As soon as possible, paint the header. Use at least 1200-degree paint, not the 500-degree engine paint. Apply several thin coats, letting them get partially tacky between coats. I normally put about 6 thin coats on mine. I've used several different brands with the same results...PJ1 (VHT), Dupli-Color, Wal-Mart Barbeque paint...they all look the same and last the same...at least for me.

Mine are always painted black. Tim (HiSPL) has painted his a cool looking blue that was sharp looking.

Hap

 

[Hoomgar]

Hap, do you do anything to the inside while your at it?

 

[Jethro]

I found a guy local to me that will bead blast and ceramic coat the header and can for about $100. That will last longer and look nicer than the high heat paint. I've had 1500 degree paint look like poo in under a year.

 

[GS700Jim]

I'm in Ma. I would love to talk to the guy who ceramic coats, otherwise I will do the paint thing... just need to sandblast real good. the sandblaster I have is one of those craftsman jobs, small hopper hose and gun, it will take awhile but should work !!

the guy who painted his blue, what did he use?

 

[Paul]

Whatever you do, make sure you "cure" the paint before you put it back on the bike.

 

[Hap Call]

Whatever you do, make sure you "cure" the paint before you put it back on the bike.

Paul, the instructions for the exhaust paints I've used never talked about curing. I've let the paint dry completely then mounted the exhaust and fired the bike off. I thought the heat from the exhaust cured the paint. Is there another way?

Hap

 

[Motorcyclemodeller]

To be safe you should let the paint dry, install, start up the bike for a minute or two then shut it off and let it cool. You should do this a couple of times. One year I fired mine up and right away began setting up the carbs, and I blistered and burned the paint 8 inches down the tubes. Or at least ride it to get some airflow over the pipes so they don't get too hot too quick.

Dr. Dre

 

[AOD]

I've had ZERO luck in painting header pipes. I've sandblasted them and painted 3 different sets and they all rust on me again. I gave up last winter, wrapped the headers, used black header wrap spray, and they rock!

~Adam

 

[Hap Call]

I've had ZERO luck in painting header pipes. I've sandblasted them and painted 3 different sets and they all rust on me again. I gave up last winter, wrapped the headers, used black header wrap spray, and they rock!

~Adam

I've been considering the same thing, mainly to keep hot air off the cylinders when traffic is slow.

Where did you get the wrap and paint and how much was it?

Hap

 

[Anonymous]

I second AOD. I had no luck with painting my pipes. So I wrapped them with DEI header wrap made for cars, available from Summit Racing. I also used DEI high temp silicone paint both before wrapping and after on the wrap itself. No rust since. It also keeps down the noise and heat considerably.

 

[Paul]

Whatever you do, make sure you "cure" the paint before you put it back on the bike.

Paul, the instructions for the exhaust paints I've used never talked about curing. I've let the paint dry completely then mounted the exhaust and fired the bike off. I thought the heat from the exhaust cured the paint. Is there another way?

Hap

On the label on the "SPEREX VHT" can it says-
ALL CURING MUST BE DONE SLOWLY
VHT coatings air dry in 15-30 minutes. Baking for 30-60 minutes will improve finish and produces a finish more resistant to salt spray, humidity and petroleum based chemicals. Curing may be carried out by the operating heat of the coated surface as in engine manifolds and exhausts, boilers, ovens, etc., or by baking in an oven, infra red, blow torch etc.

Also it says that, prior to coating, the VHT coating can easily be removed by solvent or thinners. What it doesn't say is that if you have any sort of solvent or PETROL on your hands it will dissolve!

I used to cure mine by running a blow torch over the pipes before I fitted the back on the bike. Not to get the pipes very hot, but just so as you could see the paint curing. You can actually see the vapours coming off! Don't do it inside! Then leave the pipes till they were cold before I touched them.

 

[Anonymous]

black paint

black paint

I have used all sorts of paint over the years especially a verry trying experience when I had a Guzzi Le Mans. In the end after painting I resort to fireplace blacking that comes in a tube and works like shoe polish but stays on and looks good. I think it used to be called black lead or something. Ask your granny she will know what I mean.

 

[AOD]

I second AOD. I had no luck with painting my pipes. So I wrapped them with DEI header wrap made for cars, available from Summit Racing. I also used DEI high temp silicone paint both before wrapping and after on the wrap itself. No rust since. It also keeps down the noise and heat considerably.

I too used the DEI wrap. I used 1" wrap and I bought 2 rolls of 50 feet. I used maybe 10 feet off the second roll, so if you're frugal you don't need as much...or if you need to wrap farther down the header, you need more.

My fairing hides some, so I was able to stop near the oil filter area.

One tip is buy the stainless steel tie-wraps for the header wrap. They are nice. I forget the name of the company that sells the header wrap spray (paint), but that's advisable too. Keeps them from getting wet.

~Adam

 

[Hap Call]

I second AOD. I had no luck with painting my pipes. So I wrapped them with DEI header wrap made for cars, available from Summit Racing. I also used DEI high temp silicone paint both before wrapping and after on the wrap itself. No rust since. It also keeps down the noise and heat considerably.

I too used the DEI wrap. I used 1" wrap and I bought 2 rolls of 50 feet. I used maybe 10 feet off the second roll, so if you're frugal you don't need as much...or if you need to wrap farther down the header, you need more.

My fairing hides some, so I was able to stop near the oil filter area.

One tip is buy the stainless steel tie-wraps for the header wrap. They are nice. I forget the name of the company that sells the header wrap spray (paint), but that's advisable too. Keeps them from getting wet.

~Adam

I've made up my mind to wrap my header. I'm going with the 2" wrap on a 50 ft roll. DEI also makes the wrap spray and steel tie-wraps.

Hap

 

[AOD]

Did you already order? The 2" stuff may be hard to fit between the header pipes at the collector...depending on how far down you want to wrap.

~Adam

 

[Hap Call]

Did you already order? The 2" stuff may be hard to fit between the header pipes at the collector...depending on how far down you want to wrap.

~Adam

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the thickness is the same for both the 1" and the 2"...only the width is different. With 2" with wrap, I will not have a 1/4" overlap every inch but will now have a 1/4 inch overlap every 2 inches.

Hap

 

[AOD]

Right, thickness is the same, but you have to wrap over and over towards the bottom by the collector where the pipes come together.

I think it's a 'try it and you'll see' situation. It should work though...

~Adam

 

[Detman101]

Count me in too.
Once I get mine outta the shop and have some money to buy the stuff I'm going the "Wrapped" route as well.

Should I scrub off the rust first and paint the headers? I am thinking that giving it a bit of protection before the wrap goes on can only help.

I know the silicone paint will keep it from getting wet but wouldn't it be best to get rid of the remaining rust on the pipes first?

Thank you,
Dm of mD

I second AOD. I had no luck with painting my pipes. So I wrapped them with DEI header wrap made for cars, available from Summit Racing. I also used DEI high temp silicone paint both before wrapping and after on the wrap itself. No rust since. It also keeps down the noise and heat considerably.

I too used the DEI wrap. I used 1" wrap and I bought 2 rolls of 50 feet. I used maybe 10 feet off the second roll, so if you're frugal you don't need as much...or if you need to wrap farther down the header, you need more.

My fairing hides some, so I was able to stop near the oil filter area.

One tip is buy the stainless steel tie-wraps for the header wrap. They are nice. I forget the name of the company that sells the header wrap spray (paint), but that's advisable too. Keeps them from getting wet.

~Adam

I've made up my mind to wrap my header. I'm going with the 2" wrap on a 50 ft roll. DEI also makes the wrap spray and steel tie-wraps.

Hap

 

[AOD]

Should I scrub off the rust first and paint the headers? I am thinking that giving it a bit of protection before the wrap goes on can only help.

Yeah, I did this with mine...no issues after 1 year.

I reccomend you get the headerwrap spray / sealer for sure. It keeps water off the headerwrap...which easily absorbs water.

~Adam