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Exhaust Seals

  • Thread starter Thread starter JStones
  • Start date Start date
J

JStones

Guest
As I have been getting further and further into bringing this bike back from the dead Ive been checking things off the GSR Greeting list.

One I have not addressed is exhaust seals. What am I looking for here? What would tell me mine are bad, what parts are they that would be replaced and where do I get them?
 
I wouldn't replace those preemptively unless the exhaust is already off. Too many broken exhaust bolt stories. When you get the bike running see if they're leaking. You should be able to hear if they are.

Part #3 on the fiche:

30.gif
 
Or, are you talking about these ? I would call these seals and are between the two sections of pipe, part #7 above. The gaskets mate to the head. :)

IMG_0662.jpg
 
well, like I said I am trying to do it up right... The bike does run and I ride it often. Ive done the valves, carbs, boots/o-rings, dyna ignition, plugs and coils, all electrical and fuse box, etc. I am simply trying to do all the right things since I know nothing of its history before me.

I have not touched the exhaust. It does crackle and pop on deceleration. If its like everything else on this bike I assume it has not been touched since 1980. My hope in this post was to find out what I should be doing.

I see part 7 and part 3. I have read some posts regarding number 7 being an old asbestos part or something?

The bolts containing part 3 are an issue eh?
 
I don't think the old #7 is asbestos, I know the new one is thickly woven mesh.

The exhaust gaskets sit where the header pipe attaches to the header, so, the exhaust has to be removed to get at them. Sometimes, the header bolts can be a real pain to remove without snapping them. :)
 
Those exhaust gaskets at the head are like a aluminum foil crush washer, prone to cracking, but mine are still holding and even reused the GS1000 ones. I would think that if you needed to replace those you would know it as your bike would be alot louder. Even still those are $2.72 each at Boulevard Suzuki, those other two gaskets are called muffler connectors, $21 and change each at Boulevard Suzuki, rarely need replacing, but you might want to check the tightness of the clamp.
The bolts holding in the exhaust at the head are prone to sticking, it is fairly common to break a head off while trying to remove them. I wouldn't try it unless I had to. I didn't have any problem getting mine off, it couldn't have been any easier, they were original, and there was no anti-seize. I count my blessings on that one. Hopefully if you decide to replace them yours will be just as easy.
http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fich...y=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1980&fveh=2111
 
koolaid_kid said:
If you need to replace the exhaust gaskets I recommend soaking the studs in Kroil for 24 hours or so first. It is the best penetrant by far, but can only be purchased on-line: http://www.kanolabs.com/google/
Click to expand...

PB Blaster works too. Just don't use WD-40 and the like because that stuff doesn't work.

When removing exhaust bolts use a small 1/4" drive ratchet wrench with 12mm socket. DO NOT FORCE these bolts. If you have to leverage on the bolts STOP!!! Hit them with more pentetrating lube and break out your propane torch. Heat the bolts red hot then let them cool. Hit them with more lube spray and try again. Work the bolt both in and out. Back and forth but do NOT force them or they will break off.

Take your time and all will be well. Hurry and those bolts will break off causing a lot of heartache.
 
Try Free All, I think you might find it better than Kroil and it doesn't stink as much
 
Nessism said:
PB Blaster works too. Just don't use WD-40 and the like because that stuff doesn't work.

When removing exhaust bolts use a small 1/4" drive ratchet wrench with 12mm socket. DO NOT FORCE these bolts. If you have to leverage on the bolts STOP!!! Hit them with more pentetrating lube and break out your propane torch. Heat the bolts red hot then let them cool. Hit them with more lube spray and try again. Work the bolt both in and out. Back and forth but do NOT force them or they will break off.

Take your time and all will be well. Hurry and those bolts will break off causing a lot of heartache.
Click to expand...

I think I'm going to need to remove the exhaust on my GS1000G soon, so this advice is very helpful. Can I just check that it's ok to literally heat the bolt heads up to red hot? I have visions of adjacent cylinder head fins melting! I'm also wondering how to gauge how much torque to risk applying to undoing the bolts before giving up and trying a plan B. I really don;t want to break any off as I hate drilling things out.

My bolts look really clean, no sign of rust. But I bet they haven't been touched since the bike left the showroom.

Also, I've read somewhere that a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is about the best penetrating oil you can get - anyone else know about this?
 
You can heat the bolts up, just direct the heat carefully. Plus the thinners/ATF mixture works well. WD40 is no good at all though 3-1 sell a good penetrating oil - comes in a bronze coloured spray can.

Take your time, use the penetrating oil for a few days if necessary and just use two fingers on the spanner. These things snap pretty easily if you get tempted to use too much brute force.

Just noted this is a repeat of the advice given by Ed. Everyone else who has done it will tell you the same unless they got very lucky.
 
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