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exhaust studs install question

eil

eil

Forum Sage
Yo!

I did search for this but didn't see any posts that answered this question directly

I'm about to install stainless steel studs in place of exhaust bolts. Do I use thread lock on them and if so, what color?

Any other installation tips?
 
I can only tell you what I did with mine..
I didn't bother with threadlock, as my supposition was the heat will degrade it quickly anyway, so pointless. Given that, once the studs are in place and the exhaust clamped down, there shouldn't be any movement. I had come across some fairly convincing figures that the split retainiing washers were a waste of time, but I used one on each stud, under the nut, anyway, just to be a little cautious. At some point I'll be replacing the ordinary nuts with brass ones, but so far after several months of use, none of them have loosened off. The brass nuts don't need split washers anyway, so when I replace the nuts I'll see how they go without them.
For the stainless stud to m/s nuts I used a smear of copaslip to avoid heat-promoted corrosion, but whether it would really have been an issue, I can't say. Perhaps I should have done one or two without, as controls :)
 
Thanks for the info. I have all stainless steel hardware: studs, nuts, and split washers. I don't know how useful the washers will be either, but I have some extra length to work with and I don't see how they can hurt.

I thought I read somewhere that a few of these exhaust bolt holes are just a hair away from oil galleries and it's not hard to punch straight into them. So just bottoming them out in the threads is a no-no? This was the main thing prompting my original question: How to fix the studs in place while the nuts are torqued down without transferring the torque to the bottom of the stud hole.

My studs have no handy allen wrench hole set into them, but I could grind a square onto the end for a backing wrench if needed. Will just take some time with eight of 'em to do...
 
Anti-seize is critical with stainless hardware. Particularly on parts that get hot.

I'd do the grind a flat trick or get some studs with the allen head key hole in them.
 
Nessism said:
Anti-seize is critical with stainless hardware. Particularly on parts that get hot.

I'd do the grind a flat trick or get some studs with the allen head key hole in them.
Click to expand...

Alright, that's probably what I'll do. Me and my unbalanced Horrible Freight grinder will have some quality time together this weekend...

JTGS850GL said:
Make sure you use the copper anti seize and not the aluminum. The copper is designed for higher temps.


I've used these on mine and they work great.:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M8-x-1-25mm...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d2690a171&vxp=mtr

May not be the best price but the buyer does accept less for the studs so try the "Make Offer".
Click to expand...

I have a jar of good copper antiseize that I use liberally everywhere on the bike and sometimes on my bagels with coffee in the morning.

Those look like nice hardware but "Not the best price" wowee, quite an understatement. :) I already have everything I need, though, thanks for the link.
 
Like I said, he takes less for them. The last time I picked some up it was like $1.40 each. I love the ability to use a hex wrench to install them.
 
I went and got 35 MM long set screws. Used an allen to install them. be sure that you dont bottom them out and then wrench them in to tighten them. There are oil gallies that run behind some of the holes and you pierce one and your looking for a head.

take something and stick it to the bottom of the hole and make a mark. Transfer that depth to the studs and put tape around the studs. Stop just BEFORE they hit the tape line. There are super high heat thread lockers out there and use then highest temp one you can find. Once the collars are on and the nuts tightened you should be all set.
 
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