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external oil lines to head

  • Thread starter Thread starter Wraith
  • Start date Start date
W

Wraith

Guest
Hi all,
I have a GS1000 (2v) the head has been converted to under bucket shim running Anderson S3 cams H/D valve springs etc.
The head has also had the side plugs drilled and taped with oil lines put in externally from the rear oil take off to give more oil to the top end.
My Q. is, I've been tolled that the oil way in the crankcase top half should be blocked off to give better oil prissier to the cams, will this be right?





Not the best pic but you can see the extra lines.
 
Wow! That's a lot of work (and $) on such an old bike. My kind of guy, and my kind of bike.

(Sorry I can't help you with the technical info.)
 
I'm not an expert on 2V engines but typically oil to external lines is taken from the main gallery. This mean that there is the same pressure at the starting point of the external lines and original oil ways. So blocking the oil ways won't make any change to pressure on the head. As far as I know the main reason for blocking the oil ways is to eliminate potential leak points on head gasket and base gasket. If you aren't worried about leaks I would leave the original ways open.
 
Can you post pictures of the splitter and how you installed it at the oil port? Also, how are the pilot lines to the head plumbed into the cooler lines or are they? Did you install the higher
pressure 750 pump gears?
 
I'll wait for others to answer that statement Gustavh. Meanwhile, I will be patiently waiting to hear from the OP for answers to my, still valid, questions. ;)
 
gustovh said:
I stand chastised. So 16 valve oil pump fits a 1000, nice to know.

V
Click to expand...


refer to my previous reply GS750 8 valve oil pump GEARS can be used to increase oil volume and pressure on a GS1000 8 valve

no where has anyone said anything about 16 valve oil pump fitting, we are talking about the gears that drive the pump

ok are we clear
 
Last edited:
Well where to start :) some pics, some older than others.








As to the Q, and specs of the bike, I've not got any pics of how I've done the external oil ways (can't find them :() but what I did was to drill and tap an oil pressure switch (aluminium type not plastic!) to attach to a standard size brake banjo bolt and connected it in where the oil pressure switch goes at the rear of the motor on the oil cooler take-off block. I connected a line from that switch to a front brake line splitter and then connected the resulting 4 lines to the head at the blanked-off external oilways either side of the head inlet and exhaust areas, the blanked-off oilways being drilled and tapped to take the same size banjo bolts.
Hope that makes sense ;)

As to the rest of the bike, the engine is a GS1000G (2 valve) bored to 1148cc using Kawasaki GPZ1100 1170 pistons. Welded/balanced crank, Andersen hi-lift race cams, CV ported head, under-bucket shim conversion using MTC buckets, APE heavy duty valve springs and HD engine and cylinder studs, HD clutch and back plate/springs etc, slotted cam srpockets, GSX750ET 4 valve oil pump gears. Running Keihn CR 35mm roundslide carbs & 13 row oil cooler.

It has Honda NTV 600 single-sider s/arm & rear wheel (modded to fit frame and shaft). Front end is 600 Bandit with progressive springs and GSXR 1000 k2 callipers. Homemade seat. Tank is modded GS 650 Katana, fairing is from a Peugeot scooter old model, rear cowling also off some scooter. Frame fully braced (Headstock, s/arm and cradle).

Probably forgotten loads: been working on it in various guises since before 2000 so it's ad a few changes (and will have more)...
 
I very much enjoyed reading this post, what a nice bike.
Your skills are obvious and to be envied.
 
you do not need that much oil in the top end of a bucket engine-- and what you mentioned is called DRY BLOCKING -- when you block the oil flow from going up the rear outer head studs.

and BTW your outer oil lines are way overkill but they do not force oil where it is needed - inside the cam caps/ cam journal.

once dry block modified you need to improve oil drain down with extra holes every where top to bottom. I believe it is more effective if you have rocker arms to lube the buckets are more resilient.

My opinion - and it is based upon dyno results of my 1238cc 8v engine with and without the hi volume pump gears, hi volume ratio will make your racing engine slower. they help a street engine at idle but not at WOT -- hate to break it to you , you'll get better results using thinner oil 5w30 or synthetic 0 weight and standard oiling equipment.


parasitic hydraulic drag - also had involvement in a stock appearing Bonneville buell/Harley - and the oil pump was 50% the size of a stock one (smaller)- made almost 20 MPH difference. 159MPH with Cammlin/ Weebler's team in 07.

I'll give you permission to go ahead and tell me how stupid I am. as I laugh. ;)



I have another question -- what did you set your valve seat pressures at with the APE springs? - might be able to help with another mistake builders overlook.
 
To your Q. I don't know as I gave it the the engine tuners and they set it up.
Got some more pics for you all.










May not give lods more oil up there or it may (I was told when I first did it years back it helps mostly with the exh cams) but it looks good :)
 
did you ever notice how many different oiling kits available on the performance market for kz900/1000 and how similar they are to the GS 750/1000?


lucky to have a good shop that handles your machine work and knows how to set up a hemi.

good looking resto mod. it would be a 1 of a kind around here.
 
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