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Fault Finding Page

  • Thread starter Thread starter ny_redneck04
  • Start date Start date
N

ny_redneck04

Guest
Hello all newbie first post long time reader.i have a 82 gs1100gk of course having charging probs..I have been going thru the fault finding test and when i get to the end of part b where it says 3 equal readings all higher than 60v (ac) i have 85 87 and 89 they are pretty close but it calls for equal readings..My question is is it not being equal mean my stator is bad or is it close enough to be ok ?? im not a electronic wizard but i can get around it ok..2nd ? remember im not a wizard lol what is the diode test position on a multimeter???i have a mac tool mm and it uses symbols for the choices thought maybe someone could answer this for me..for the test on part c


my bat fully charged reads 13v
rev it up too 2500rpms i get 12.5
next step i get .19 and .09:-|(i have black from r/r going to - batt post the .09 is from the grounding surface of the r/r is this wrong ???)
so i move to part b
the 3 test on the yellow wires i get .6 .6 .5ohmsthen to last test on b and thats were im stumped
id like to thanks all in advance and state what a great site this is


THANK YOU
Pat from ny
 
Hey howdy hey!

Hey howdy hey!

Hi Mr. ny_redneck04,

I just want to formally welcome you to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. As you know, pictures are strongly encouraged.

There's a lot of sharp folks in here, but I'm not one of them. :-D

The diode test setting on your multi-meter might look like a triangle with little lines coming from one corner and the opposite flat edge.

Someone should be along shortly to answer your very knowledgeable questions. I have yet to delve deeply into my electrics. I haven't gone beyond fixing grounds and cleaning contacts. Lucky me.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR Forum Greeter)
walmart_greeter2.jpg
 
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Stator sounds good. Test it under load (see stator papers)
Check for black and melting wire connectors from the three stator wires. I cut and solder them. Cut and solder a longer ground wire from the R/R and connect it to the negative battery post. Sand all the battery connectors (including the ground that leads to the crankcase) and use dielectric grease on all of them. I was getting similar readings and this fixed me up. I haven't even had to do my monthly trickle charge.
 
Thanks for the replies.I have checked the wires for blackening and melted they all look good.i will try to cut and solder them and see what that gets me..i do have a long ground wire going from the r/r to the - batt post.i ll look up how to test under load..i dont have any dielectric grease to do that but if ya all say it works ill have sum by the end of the work day tomarrow..i have sanded and clean all connections to the batt except the 1 to the crank case but i will tonight.. again thanks i dont wanna be a pain but i wanna ride and not have to worry bout the batt goin dead and leaving me stranded again lol

UPDATE:went out tonight and started all over and cleaned post and connections everything was going good TILL i got to test the ohms of the 3 stator wires now they all read .4ohms wich the stator paper says my staor is bad..but what ticks me off is last night it was a different reading and in my favor too..i just dont understand its starting to realllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllly pi$$$$ me off i wanna ride but i guess i need more answers first(THANKS FOR LISTENING TO MY LIL VENT TANTRUM)
 
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ny_redneck04 said:
Thanks for the replies.I have checked the wires for blackening and melted they all look good.i will try to cut and solder them and see what that gets me..i do have a long ground wire going from the r/r to the - batt post.i ll look up how to test under load..i dont have any dielectric grease to do that but if ya all say it works ill have sum by the end of the work day tomarrow..i have sanded and clean all connections to the batt except the 1 to the crank case but i will tonight.. again thanks i dont wanna be a pain but i wanna ride and not have to worry bout the batt goin dead and leaving me stranded again lol

UPDATE:went out tonight and started all over and cleaned post and connections everything was going good TILL i got to test the ohms of the 3 stator wires now they all read .4ohms wich the stator paper says my staor is bad..but what ticks me off is last night it was a different reading and in my favor too..i just dont understand its starting to realllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllly pi$$$$ me off i wanna ride but i guess i need more answers first(THANKS FOR LISTENING TO MY LIL VENT TANTRUM)
Click to expand...

I've not read the stator paper and really don't care to--my charging system better stay working or I'll kill it :-D

But anyway .4 ohms isn't much diff from .6 ohms and how good a connection you make or temperature can affect the reading. Your putting out good voltage on the stator, I wouldn't knit pick the slight variance in voltage, electric is rarely perfect. Move ahead to troubleshooting the regulator/rectifier or whatever the stator paper has next.
 
How to Read a Multimeter 101

Ohms:
After turning on the meter and placing it in the Ohms position, touch the two leads together to see what the reading is. It should be zero, but most likely, will not be zero. Probably something like 0.2 or 0.3 ohms. that is what the meter is reading through your leads. Any further readings you take, should have that reading subtracted from it.

Diode test:
This places a voltage across the diode leads and will measure the breakdown point of a diode. A diode is basically an electrical check valve: it lets current flow one direction, but not the other. Most of the diodes in use on our bikes have a breakdown voltage of about 0.5 volts. When the meter leads are placed across the diode leads, you will see either and out-of-range indication (typically "OL") or about 0.5 on the display. Reverse the meter leads and you should see the other value. If both readings are OL, the diode is open. If both of them are 0.5 or lower, the diode is shorted.

Your stator voltages are "equal enough", the important part is that they are over the 70-75 volt range.

To fully test the diodes in the r/r, you need to do twelve (12) tests. Use a jumper wire to make it easier, but connect the negative lead of the meter to the black lead of the r/r. Check each of the three input wires, note the reading, it should be OL. Connect the positive lead of the meter to the black lead, test the three inputs again, the readings should be about 0.5 volts. Now connect the positive meter lead to the red lead from the r/r, check the three inputs, meter should read OL. Connect the negative meter lead to the red r/r lead, the three inputs should read about 0.5 volts. If any one of these twelve tests give you an incorrect reading, the r/r is toast.

Your stator appears to be OK. Test the r/r. If it's OK, the only other link is battery.


.
 
connect the negative lead of the meter to the black lead of the r/r. Check each of the three input wires, note the reading, it should be OL i got 1.53 1.53 1.78 on this part

Connect the positive lead of the meter to the black lead, test the three inputs again, the readings should be about 0.5 volts i got 0.00 on all 3 wires


Now connect the positive meter lead to the red lead from the r/r, check the three inputs, meter should read OL now i got ol on this part.. so im taking by your explanation that my r/r is toast

soooooooooooooooooooo my next question
whats a better r/r one from ricks motorsports electric or an electrex r/r from motorcycle superstore ??

i truly really appreciate everyones help without this forum and you great folks id be up the creek with a dead gs lol
 
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i soldered the stat wires were theres the bullet connectors to just make sure there wasnt a bad connection but everything remains the same i cleaned all connections and grounds again many thanks i guess i should buy a r/r
 
forgot 1 thing

forgot 1 thing

:oops: when the bike died on me cause the battery was dead because of the charging prob i jumped started it and no lights worked and it died shortly after till i recharged the battery,,sorry i left this out but im still thinking from what ya all said and what ive tested its the r/r..please correct me if im wrong thank you
 
Update Update

Update Update

\\:D/According to the stator papers and everyones help on here my bike has a charging system that is working now.Many thanks to this site and its great members..I replaced the r/r with a new one and that was the culprit.\\:D/ Again
THANK YOU
Pat
 
Alot of folks fix their bikes and that's the end of the thread. It's good to see how a problem is troubleshooted so in the future with the search feature someone can fix his/her bike. So by posting your results could help someone in the future like this site helped you.
\\:D/\\:D/\\:D/
 
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