J
jwhelan65
Guest
Nice job........!
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
FAUX 78 Skunk 1100 Project
- Thread starter Gregory
- Start date
Finally, someone with worse camera skills than me. haha.
Excellent work on the conversion, Greg.
Excellent work on the conversion, Greg.
G
Guest
Guest
Pet C
Pet C
Hiya Greg,
How about moving the whole steel boss on the tank back 1/2"?Or 3/4" to 1"?
And then warm the airbox a little if the lever hits and give it a little indent to clear. Plastic is wondrous stuff when warm. Is there a dent in the tank, right front?
Note, the 1980 GS750/1100 had a shorter in height petcock. Only an on/off and the bolt spacing was a little wider. It should be fine if you have a fuel gauge.
G
Pet C
Hiya Greg,
How about moving the whole steel boss on the tank back 1/2"?Or 3/4" to 1"?
And then warm the airbox a little if the lever hits and give it a little indent to clear. Plastic is wondrous stuff when warm. Is there a dent in the tank, right front?
Note, the 1980 GS750/1100 had a shorter in height petcock. Only an on/off and the bolt spacing was a little wider. It should be fine if you have a fuel gauge.
G
I ended up welding everything up identical to how the 78gs1000 was set up. I did have the tank pad on but the petcock was sitting on the carb causing it to kilter to the right side and touching on the top rear valve cover bolt.
What I ended up doing at least temporarily was, use the 1100 petcock which required me to make the screen hole in the tank a little larger, but it did bolt right up.
Another forum member gave me the idea of raising the tank a little. I tinkered with making the back of the tank a little higher by adding layers of old inner tube on top of the tank pad.
The right distance to get the tank off of the carb was about the thickness of 8 layers of inner tube. You will see in the following picture that I did find a 1/2" thick piece of rubber that I contact cemented on top of the tank pad.... then for good measure I wrapped some inner tube on the top of the frame.
With this set-up it is pretty stable but if you grab and twist it does move some.
Basically the height change is where the round tank mount rubber fitting is not used and the tank is pulled up as far as it can go before the bolt touches the bottom of that opening. (I put a sliver of gas line hose around the base of the bolt so the threads don't get ruined or vibrate.
If I had it to do over again, (or when I do a complete tear down and restore) I will relocate the tank mount bracket so that the round rubber can be utilized.
Right now the petcock still may rest on the carb but haven't noticed any vibration or rattling. Till I get it sorted out I also put a tiny rubber hose on top of the valve cover bolt.
I went for a little ride today with the new Shinkos on and this thing screams. I haven't even tuned it yet but am very impressed. It is fast off the line but hits another power band about 6k and really kicks in.
Now to make some rubber washers or something to make those rear foot pegs stop rattling.
What I ended up doing at least temporarily was, use the 1100 petcock which required me to make the screen hole in the tank a little larger, but it did bolt right up.
Another forum member gave me the idea of raising the tank a little. I tinkered with making the back of the tank a little higher by adding layers of old inner tube on top of the tank pad.
The right distance to get the tank off of the carb was about the thickness of 8 layers of inner tube. You will see in the following picture that I did find a 1/2" thick piece of rubber that I contact cemented on top of the tank pad.... then for good measure I wrapped some inner tube on the top of the frame.
With this set-up it is pretty stable but if you grab and twist it does move some.
Basically the height change is where the round tank mount rubber fitting is not used and the tank is pulled up as far as it can go before the bolt touches the bottom of that opening. (I put a sliver of gas line hose around the base of the bolt so the threads don't get ruined or vibrate.
If I had it to do over again, (or when I do a complete tear down and restore) I will relocate the tank mount bracket so that the round rubber can be utilized.
Right now the petcock still may rest on the carb but haven't noticed any vibration or rattling. Till I get it sorted out I also put a tiny rubber hose on top of the valve cover bolt.
I went for a little ride today with the new Shinkos on and this thing screams. I haven't even tuned it yet but am very impressed. It is fast off the line but hits another power band about 6k and really kicks in.
Now to make some rubber washers or something to make those rear foot pegs stop rattling.
F
Fast1RP
Guest
Shunk Project
Shunk Project
Nice bike I met a guy who had a 1150 motor on a gs1000.Motor had a 1229 kit port work . Whatever suits you.:
Shunk Project
Nice bike I met a guy who had a 1150 motor on a gs1000.Motor had a 1229 kit port work . Whatever suits you.:
Boy did I screw up this time!
I finally got a seat latch and helmet holder to finish off the FauxSkunk pieces it was missing. Previously I had unhooked the battery and all electronics, but this time got absentminded and/or lazy. Now I am having charging issues with the battery. DAMN!
Anyway here is a pic of the seat latch stuff.
I finally got a seat latch and helmet holder to finish off the FauxSkunk pieces it was missing. Previously I had unhooked the battery and all electronics, but this time got absentminded and/or lazy. Now I am having charging issues with the battery. DAMN!
Anyway here is a pic of the seat latch stuff.
