M
Matchless
Guest
Stripped down my GS1000G 1980 and had the frame and some parts powdercoated. What a change. Those parts look like they have just come off the shelf!
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F
Flaggo60
Guest
I hope you're going to continue progress reports with pictures! I'm planning the same project in the near future and would love to see the process.
J
J_C
Guest
Yeah man, a new powdercoat makes day and night difference, if your old one has some wear & tear. Mine definitely needed it; I'm so glad I stripped it down to do it.
M
Matchless
Guest
Thanks! I will try to post some pictures as it progresses.
Can anyone advise me on the next step. I want to powdercoat the wheels and my powdercoater says he cannot mask the metal rim and outsides of the spokes and can only do the complete wheel. I think it means he usually sandblasts the complete wheel and then powdercoats it. I would like to keep it stock. Does anyone have any advice on how to mask this off easily?
M
Matchless
Guest
Pulled the tape off the wiring loom, removed the two redundant wires for the third phase charging and cleaned each wire full length with benzine.
Sprayed out all connectors and bullet connector boots with brake cleaner. Then dipped contacts in hydrofluoric acid for 5 minutes to clean the brass, dipped in clean water, sprayed with brake cleaner and finally sprayed with contact cleaner, left overnight and again cleaned each connector and conector block with brake cleaner. All connectors are now bright brass and the bullet connector boots look close to new.
Next step is to add new wires for coil and horn relay mod as well as a 12v accessory point and then wrap the loom up.
As the most problems on these old bikes are usually electrical or fuel related I am trying to do this properly.
[URL=http://www.mediafire.com/imageview.php?quickkey=9zjmdirmnm1&thumb=4]
[/URL]
Sprayed out all connectors and bullet connector boots with brake cleaner. Then dipped contacts in hydrofluoric acid for 5 minutes to clean the brass, dipped in clean water, sprayed with brake cleaner and finally sprayed with contact cleaner, left overnight and again cleaned each connector and conector block with brake cleaner. All connectors are now bright brass and the bullet connector boots look close to new.
Next step is to add new wires for coil and horn relay mod as well as a 12v accessory point and then wrap the loom up.
As the most problems on these old bikes are usually electrical or fuel related I am trying to do this properly.
[URL=http://www.mediafire.com/imageview.php?quickkey=9zjmdirmnm1&thumb=4]
[/URL]
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S
seuadr
Guest
wow man, you are making me feel tired just reading about it! awesome job! i really should do something like this over the winter. i already plan on hand polishing all my covers and stripping/cleaning and repainting all my brake parts.
These guys operate that service in the UK, and polish the outsides as well. Might be worth giving them a call and asking for a quote. If it's too dear with the shipping they might tell you how it's done.
http://www.triple-s.co.uk/
M
Matchless
Guest
I painted the calipers with high gloss black, 2 part (2k), a few months ago, messed some brakefluid on it during this tear down and the paint is lifting. I am definitely going to rather spend time on masking it off and having it powdered coated as well, just so much more durable.
If you want to polish your covers, get a bench grinder and fit a mulilayer cotton wheel and get some paste. You have to remove the covers, but the end result is so easy and good that it is really worth it.
M
Matchless
Guest
Thanks, but the shipping cost may cripple the rest of the project! I am hoping for a method that I can apply in conjunction with my local powdercoater as they do not really do those specialised type of jobs. If I can prepare it properly for sandblasting and powdercoating they will do it, but..
More excellent work on the harness. I love to see a job that is being done the RIGHT way.
Since your wheels are for a G (shaft drive), you can easily get away with a liquid paint on the wheels since no chain lube will be used. I like PPG two part urethane paint; holds up very well to paint chips and chemicals. If you have the rims sandblasted, after proper masking, the finish will hold up just fine if you use some proper paint (not rattle cans).
As a side note, I've heard of a special type of tape for powercoating but don't have any personal experience. The edge of the rims could be covered I think but the ribs on the spokes would be difficult for sure.
Good luck.
Since your wheels are for a G (shaft drive), you can easily get away with a liquid paint on the wheels since no chain lube will be used. I like PPG two part urethane paint; holds up very well to paint chips and chemicals. If you have the rims sandblasted, after proper masking, the finish will hold up just fine if you use some proper paint (not rattle cans).
As a side note, I've heard of a special type of tape for powercoating but don't have any personal experience. The edge of the rims could be covered I think but the ribs on the spokes would be difficult for sure.
Good luck.
M
Matchless
Guest
Thanks for that suggestion. I have also been toying with the idea to have the rims sandblasted and powdercoated in silver and then just painting the inner parts of the rims over the powdercoating a charcoal color. I will obviously lose the bare polished metal affect and was wondering if this would not 'look' wrong.
Powder coat is not magic so don't be afraid of liquid paint - just use the right stuff.
FYI, you might want to check BassCliff's instructions on how to post photos. Very informative. http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/how_to_post_pictures.pdf
FYI, you might want to check BassCliff's instructions on how to post photos. Very informative. http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/how_to_post_pictures.pdf
M
Matchless
Guest
Thanks for the pointer. Unfortunately my pictures have a different process, but I managed to figure it out and reposted them. Hope it looks better now.
J
J_C
Guest
Dude... nice. I wish I had done that when my harness was off. Whats the benzine for, just to clean the insulation? And the hydroflouric acid got off any tarnish or corrosion from the wires and/or connectors?
M
Matchless
Guest
M
Matchless
Guest
Most overlooked, but very important item - the Airbox. Just completed it, sandblasted, powdercoated, fixed small diffusion box inside top for breather and sealed rubbers on side properly.
Fitted rubber boots to carbs correctly - always wondered why they were so difficult, they are also marked L or R and have a little mark showing the top. I never knew this before.
New stainless screws and ready to fit.
Fitted rubber boots to carbs correctly - always wondered why they were so difficult, they are also marked L or R and have a little mark showing the top. I never knew this before.
New stainless screws and ready to fit.
S
Suzuki_Don
Guest
Most overlooked, but very important item - the Airbox. Just completed it, sandblasted, powdercoated, fixed small diffusion box inside top for breather and sealed rubbers on side properly.
Fitted rubber boots to carbs correctly - always wondered why they were so difficult, they are also marked L or R and have a little mark showing the top. I never knew this before.
New stainless screws and ready to fit.
Great job Andre. Keep it going.
Cheers
Don
M
Matchless
Guest
Thanks for the encouragement Don, I am now past the point of no return and enjoying it!
G
Guest
Guest
I did a rebuild of a '79 GS1000S and did what you are doing.Keep going the way you have so far and you will end up with a "new" bike.I replaced ALL the bolts with stainless(cover bolts etc) or zinc plated high tensile for anything else(engine mounts,calliper mounts etc).I would also replace all the bullet connectors on your harness as well.They are no where as reliable as spade connectors.I had my wheels polished and repainted with a two pack and they came up beautiful.Every part I had ANY concerns with,I replaced with NEW.It might cost a bit but you will be rewarded with reliability.You are doing well so far.Keep up the high standard.Cheers,Simon.
