• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

First attempt to start: fuel streaming from carbs

  • Thread starter Thread starter Longitudinal
  • Start date Start date
L

Longitudinal

Guest
Finally got everything together with the '78 GS750. Turned the petcock to "PRI" so the bowls could fill. A few seconds after I did this, I had fuel streaming freely from both of what I am supposed to believe are vent hoses and the bottom nipple on carb #2. A second attempt had fuel dripping from the #2 air filter (EMGO pods.)

The petcock seems to work, and it certainly works on prime.

Carbs are freshly rebuilt by somebody who has been doing this for ages.

What is going on here, and can I avoid re-removing the carbs and having them re-rebuilt?
 
Finally got everything together with the '78 GS750. Turned the petcock to "PRI" so the bowls could fill. A few seconds after I did this, I had fuel streaming freely from both of what I am supposed to believe are vent hoses and the bottom nipple on carb #2. A second attempt had fuel dripping from the #2 air filter (EMGO pods.)

The petcock seems to work, and it certainly works on prime.

Carbs are freshly rebuilt by somebody who has been doing this for ages.

What is going on here, and can I avoid re-removing the carbs and having them re-rebuilt?
sounds like the float has stuck open on the carb, or is not correctly set. the carbs have to come off again to rectify the fault.
i would call your mate who has "been doing it for ages" and get him to sort it :o
 
No rebuilding, just fix something inside that isn't working. Do it yourself so you know.
Try whacking the leaking floatbowl with the handle of a hammer or something, may knock the valve into action. If not, remove the carbs, drain them, remove the floats and their valves and see what's up. Something is stuck, or blocked open by a chunk of something, or very badly out of adjustment. Last time I found a small chunk of wood under the valve. It's something simple.

The first thing I would suspect is the guy that's been doing this for ages.
 
make sure all bowl drain screws are tight, try taking a large screw driver handle and tapping on all of the bowls fairly hard in an attempt to jar the needles and seats to shut. if this doesnt work it sounds like the carbs will need to be pulled and the bowls removed and floats and needles and seats inspected
 
Hitting the carbs is highly not recomended.

Just my opionion though.
 
Leak has slowed to a slow drip, but that could be because it has almost exhausted its fuel supply. Had a nice pool going on top of the transmission case. Still nothing but the occasional backfire, and the number four plug was completely dry and shiny--no fuel has been by it yet.

Drain screws are all tight now. One was slightly loose, but it was not on the leaking carb.

Inching closer and closer to a conversion to Bosch CIS. I sold my motorcycle just long enough ago that I had forgotten why and how much I hate carburetors.
 
Hitting the carbs is highly not recomended.

Just my opionion though.

Sometimes the float sticks in the full down position after the carbs have been upside down on the workbench. Tapping the float bowl with a piece of wood or screw driver handle often frees up the float allowing it to drop down and start floating like it is supposed to. No worry.
 
Worked fine for me on my RM250 when the float stuck

Yup, standard procedure.

Regarding "hating carburetors", owning a 30 year old vehicle is not for everyone. It's best to either get something newer that will need less work, hit the lotto so you can shovel tons of money to your favorite mechanic, or learn to work on your own bike.
 
No one has mentioned this yet, turn the fuel tap to on. Unless I missed something. :)

Brad bk
 
I'd sooner walk, which it appears I may be doing.
No need to walk, you have everything you'll need to get it up and running...correctly; right here at your finger tips.

willing to try fixing it?

if so, read on...

did you rap the side(s) of the carb(s) as you were asked?

what has been done other than the pods? exhaust changed? was it re-jetted?

do you have basic hand tools?
 
Last edited:
Hitting the carbs is highly not recomended.

Just my opionion though.

didn't say to beat on them with a hammer. just tap on them hard with a good sized plastic or wood item to jar the needle and seats and floats and this will hopefully get them to free up and seal. been doing it for 25+ years. I'm a certified motorcycle mechanic and specialize in 60's -90's vintage Japanese bikes. it works for me. ;)
 
didn't say to beat on them with a hammer. just tap on them hard with a good sized plastic or wood item to jar the needle and seats and floats and this will hopefully get them to free up and seal. been doing it for 25+ years. I'm a certified motorcycle mechanic and specialize in 60's -90's vintage Japanese bikes. it works for me. ;)

If it works for ya.....Im not gonna argue with ya.
 
Sometimes it actually works, not always though. Has saved a many times of pulling the carbs off a bike here. Just to go ahead and pull them anyways. lol

I still don't get what it is about just pulling them off, and doing it right.

Like it is taboo, or something.

PITA, FEAR?

PITA, get new boots. Crusty ones are, and will always be a PITA.

FEAR? well...Been there too....... for about 3 seconds. :D

"First try, leaking gas" pull the carbs back off.

Should check them before putting them on, but, too late for that.
 
Last edited:
well the guy who started this post said the carbs had just been rebuilt by a guy who knew what he was doing. if they had all new kits in them and the float levels were properly set by someone who knew what he was doing and they were just installed and were over flowing, tap on them because something may just be stuck. I wouldn't be as prone to try this move with an old crusty set of carbs that were most likely full of bad gas. you arent going to break anything by tapping on the outside unless you are retarded and are beating on them with something pointy and maybe punch a hole or something.....:p
 
Back
Top