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First stage 1983 GS1100E resto

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
Okay, this is how she looks now that I have gone through and done the preliminary re-wiring and fitting of some stock parts. I am in process of getting all the needed parts, including a complete and unmolested wiring harness. As you can see from the picture of the left hand switch, the butchering job done by the seller was way more than claimed, thus the ugly electric tape wrapping. The levers and aftermarket brake reservoir are going away, to be replaced with stock perches and master cylinder. The headlight and fork ears are aftermarket and will be replaced as soon as I get a set of ears and headlight bucket. Until then I have to run what I am able. The seller cut the rear cowling, ruined the seat pan and the bike has a host of different fasteners to be replaced. The gauges are GS850, a short term solution only because I needed a good tach and speedo. Mirrors are not stock but look close enough for now. She will be re-painted in (as close as I can get) original blue with original decals and I have the original turn signals, they will be mounted as soon as I get the seat and rear cowl.

Mechanically she runs fine but the clutch chatter will be addressed (thanks for all the tips and advice:applause:) as soon as I can get a weekend free. I am still experiencing some kind of loss of power at around 5K, also your advice on this matter is appreciated and the problem is to be addressed soon. That she runs good most of the time, starts immediately and doesn't leak any fluids makes it hard to strip her down and do the repairs, I rode her 100 miles today and aside from having to switch to reserve, no major complaints.

A full tune-up is scheduled for this weekend (plugs, oil filter, air filter, check timing, valve adjust) and a ride next week.

Below are current pictures taken Thursday, March 17, 2016.

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This will be interesting to watch. I bought a similar bike recently (had considered the one you got) and am lining up my projects as well. The PO (Hayabuser-Dave) did the first round of cleanup. replaced missing stuff, changed fluids, and got it running really well. It still needs a lot, doing the electrical and new SH775 this weekend, ordered stuff for Salty Monk brake upgrade. Hope you can make it to John Day in June....

Good luck with the project! Cowls and seats fairly common on ebay. Mine is however faster because the speedo goes to 240 :)

Bob G.
 
...The seller cut the rear cowling...

I can't for the life of me figure out why.

So far so good. Keep up the good work. Remember, it is a special bike - rated by Cycle World as the best superbike several years running, better than the mighty GPz 1100.
 
I've subscribed to your thread and look forward to seeing your progress. You're moving right along. :)

cg
 
Hi Jake,
I am happy to watch your progress...You seem to have a pretty good plan. Hey buddy I might be able to help you out on a couple of things....gauges for example...and yes the are the 240 ones like Bob was bragging about...lol....I also just switched out my bars..so I could maybe help you out there too.
Good luck buddy and I really hope you can make it to John Day!
Cheers
 
Yeah, well mine has a smaller front wheel, so I am always going downhill! Better gas mileage.
 
As to cutting the cowling, the seller had removed the original tail-light and rear fender and mounted a stupid tail-light/license plate holder that was attached to the rear cowl support with (I kid you not) bailing wire and the brake light was a thin flexible LED light strip with 22 gauge wires hooked to stock wires. He also drilled two holes in the top of the cowling to bolt it to the rear support. I have the right side cover, not mounted due to no posts, it was held on with zip-ties when I got her.

Appreciate the offer of parts Trevor, I have ordered new bars in black and I think I have the gauges lined up, although I don't think they are 240 gauges. Can my GS really go that fast if I mount the gauges? I hope so, as it would be nice to run alongside a Bugatti Veyron.

Is it consensus that I should do a 530 chain/sprocket swap? Have been thinking I should...
 
Hey! Good luck about your project!
I just have one question, it's concerning mine because I fitted the same front fender as you. Do you have some part under the front fender to rigidify it between the two legs of the fork? Just to know...thanks!
 
The fender is, as far as I can tell not correct for 1983. It is steel not plastic so it does not need that metal brace. I have that internal brace but not the correct plastic fender. Does yours have the same two cut-outs on the side as mine, but in plastic? I believe the correct one for mine only has one cut-out, behind the fork legs. What year is yours, is it a 1983 E model?
 
I have front fenders & the correct valve cover end caps if you want to make the bike right with those parts.
Ray.
 
Ray, I certainly do. Can you PM me with details on price and shipping? Thanks much! I plan to restore her back to all original so any help in that area is greatly appreciated.
 
Update March 19. It appears I have lined up just about all the parts I need to bring her back to stock. Three items remain; headlight assembly (I have the bucket,) chain guard and clutch perch with lever. Any help getting these few pieces is greatly appreciated. I will begin the tear-down next week and post pictures of the progression. Thanks to all who have helped, public acknowledgements to follow soon. You guys have been great, I wish I could adopt you all as my children (but NO Christmas presents!)

PS: I had posted a question in the carb thread a bit ago about loss of power at 5K and above. After riding her for 200 miles now, I notice that I can now get up to a little over 6K and she seems to accelerate better. I am thinking there may be gunk in the carbs that is being "flushed out" the more I ride. Would it help to run some Seafoam through her, or do you think removing the carbs is a better idea? Just askin...
 
Phase two successful, removal of all electrical components and wiring. Sad to say, virtually everything had been modified/cut/taped/burned and it became obvious as I unravelled the mess that the way it was cobbed would not have lasted too much longer.
The connector between the R/R and alternator had been cut and spade connectors installed, then wrapped with tape, encased in an old inner tube and then wrapped more with tape. When I got the mess unwrapped the signs were obvious; almost melted connections close to shorting out. One picture below shows the end of the R/R and how it was about to go south.
I also found unconnected plugs, scotch connectors, splices reminding me of Rube Goldberg and some kind of weird grounding concept where any fastener was seen as a ground. I ended up cutting the remaining plugs off the harness to facilitate removal and have now removed all offending wiring, as well as all components. The R/R will be upgraded and a thorough check of the stator will be done using the Stator Papers.
Many thanks to all who have offered advice when needed, and thanks to RapidRay and Chief 1366 for their gracious help in making sure I have the parts needed to bring her back to stock.
Another update this week after receiving some of the parts.

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It's been raining here in the Willamette Valley and not having a real garage I have had to choose the times when I could roll the bike outside and do some actual work. I borrowed a set of bars and fitted them just to see how it feels. I like both looks and feel. Mocked up headlight and brake master cylinder, noticed a bent brake lever and flattened ball end. Will replace lever soon with original black. Bled the brakes, found the seller had only bled the left side (as sitting on bike) and not the right. Not they work much better! Also discovered the gear indicator switch was still intact, I hope it works once I hook it up to the new (to me) wiring harness I am installing soon. Also mocked up rear turn signals and found right side bracket bent (notice drooping) so I will attempt to slightly adjust with vice and hammer. Also found side stand switch, have installed but I will have to make the correct length spring to make it function.
So far the adventure continues...

phase3GS1100%20002_zpsstiy5ifw.jpg


phase3GS1100%20003_zpsr636ejkr.jpg


phase3GS1100%20001_zpss7jcp15y.jpg
 
It's been raining here in the Willamette Valley and not having a real garage I have had to choose the times when I could roll the bike outside and do some actual work. I borrowed a set of bars and fitted them just to see how it feels. I like both looks and feel. Mocked up headlight and brake master cylinder, noticed a bent brake lever and flattened ball end. Will replace lever soon with original black. Bled the brakes, found the seller had only bled the left side (as sitting on bike) and not the right. Not they work much better! Also discovered the gear indicator switch was still intact, I hope it works once I hook it up to the new (to me) wiring harness I am installing soon. Also mocked up rear turn signals and found right side bracket bent (notice drooping) so I will attempt to slightly adjust with vice and hammer. Also found side stand switch, have installed but I will have to make the correct length spring to make it function.
So far the adventure continues...

Are those Daytona Touring bars? I just got a set but haven't mounted them yet. Sucky weather here too. I do have a garage but it is too cold to do much work.
 
Yes they are, or at least that is what I was told. I like the height, bend and width, I don't know how much different they are to stock. I will find out once I get my stock bars and can compare them. I am 6-3 and they seem to fit me pretty good.
 
Phase three done, now it's time to sleep. Seriously, the last 20 hours have been a bit stressful as it has been a while since I did this much of a rebuild-resto, suffice to say these old bones passed their prime a while ago. I just wanted to post a quick comment, pictures will be forthcoming tomorrow. The end result is, she is back up and running after replacing the wiring harness, installing gauge cluster, handlebar switch, and generally modifying/adapting/improving what was a soon to be dead 1983 GS1100E. I have but a few minor issues to address, mostly electrical; figure out why the battery light on the dash is always lit even though the battery checks out fine, hooking up the side stand switch, figuring out how to wire in the clutch interlock, trouble-shooting why the oil temp gauge does not work, and the left blinker does not blink but the right does. I figure most of these niggling problems are/could be a ground problem, right now this bike is my main transportation so getting her up, running and safe was number one priority. The dash lights all work, have high/low beam and the warning lights (except battery) all work as they should. Gear indicator works as does neutral light and gauge lights/brake light all work. Last item, master cylinder cover gasket leaks, will have to replace as soon as possible.
First observation is that with a stock seat and Daytona bars (borrowed) and stock gauge cluster, my appreciation and, dare I say love for this old girl increased about 7 and a half fold. I may have found a replacement for my beloved CB750 SOHC to direct my affections towards. Is that wrong? I like the riding position and with a stock seat my knees fit the tank much better, the bike feels more a part of me now. Please don't tell my girlfriend, okay?
Pictures tomorrow. Thanks for all the help, advice, parts, scowling, support and comments, without which I would be a shell of my former self.
 
Phase three done, now it's time to sleep. Seriously, the last 20 hours have been a bit stressful as it has been a while since I did this much of a rebuild-resto, suffice to say these old bones passed their prime a while ago. I just wanted to post a quick comment, pictures will be forthcoming tomorrow. The end result is, she is back up and running after replacing the wiring harness, installing gauge cluster, handlebar switch, and generally modifying/adapting/improving what was a soon to be dead 1983 GS1100E. I have but a few minor issues to address, mostly electrical; figure out why the battery light on the dash is always lit even though the battery checks out fine, hooking up the side stand switch, figuring out how to wire in the clutch interlock, trouble-shooting why the oil temp gauge does not work, and the left blinker does not blink but the right does. I figure most of these niggling problems are/could be a ground problem, right now this bike is my main transportation so getting her up, running and safe was number one priority. The dash lights all work, have high/low beam and the warning lights (except battery) all work as they should. Gear indicator works as does neutral light and gauge lights/brake light all work. Last item, master cylinder cover gasket leaks, will have to replace as soon as possible.
First observation is that with a stock seat and Daytona bars (borrowed) and stock gauge cluster, my appreciation and, dare I say love for this old girl increased about 7 and a half fold. I may have found a replacement for my beloved CB750 SOHC to direct my affections towards. Is that wrong? I like the riding position and with a stock seat my knees fit the tank much better, the bike feels more a part of me now. Please don't tell my girlfriend, okay?
Pictures tomorrow. Thanks for all the help, advice, parts, scowling, support and comments, without which I would be a shell of my former self.

Sounds like you've made some real progress. Nice to see that bike gone through and back on the road. Look forward to seeing some more pictures of her touring the back roads of the Willimatte Valley. Cheers.

cg
 
Glad to hear that progress is going well. The bike came with a electrolyte level sensor, which was a probe that was inserted into the battery in an extra hole. it had nothing to do with its state of charge. ive yet to do it on mine, but have read that connecting the wire to a switched 12v source will turn the light off. If i recall its a green wire.
 
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