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first time stator rewind WORKS GREAT!

  • Thread starter Thread starter motocycle shawn
  • Start date Start date
M

motocycle shawn

Guest
The a update for every one i'v been talking with about doing the at home stator rewinding. will i have to say after reading the stator pages i jumped in with both feet. to make this short i did what is posted in the stator pages and it worked great and was not as bad as it sounded. but to do a nice and good job winding the coils have a friend hold the wire and keep each wire tight as you wind it. here are some photos for all to see.

i did it i say thanks to the great guy's and gal's we have on this site.
the cost to do this was $30 and you can find the wire at any ele'c motor repair shop..



info from this site.


allphotos1207.jpg


recoating the stator just to be safe.
allphotos1209.jpg


winding it.
allphotos1211.jpg


done tested and sealed.

allphotos1215.jpg


works great and tested good first time. i would be glad to hand wind one for some one if needed. and i would not ask much at all .. just a fyi if any one wants to do it. but thats all for now. i hope more people try this and save some cash $30 for me to do the one i did or $149 for a new one...
i saved $119!!! and i need that for my 1100e motor build.
 
Very nice job! Thanks for the info. You have given me encouragement to give it a try. What did you coat the core with????
 
What gauge wire did you use and how much did you need? The wires look to be of larger gauge than the stock stator wires, true? Fatter wire means higher current and lower voltage doesn't it?

Great work BTW. I love do it selfers.:)
 
Congradulations, but to be really meaningfull we would need a a little more technical info please.
  1. As already requested what wire guage size did you use? (Measured OD with and without insulation)
  2. Square wire?
  3. It is a Delta or Wye wrap?
  4. What are your open loop stator voltages?
  5. What regulator are you using?
  6. What is your regulated voltage at 5000 RPM?
  7. Did you folow the stator pages? :o
TIA, and great job.
Posplayr
 
stator info

stator info

ok heres more info.
every thing i did was what the stator papers said to do.

1. wire is size 17 gauge. and 2 pounds is way more then you need but good to have if you needed to start over, cost of wire $20.67

2. i counted 30 turns on my bad coil on my stator. so i rewound 30 on each coil. after winding all that wire i tested for shorts and coil ohms
on all 3 leads. each lead had 0.9 ohms. and no shorts to the stator .

3. the stator is wind in the deta wind. the shop that i got my wire from said both styles of winding's will work just the same but i did it to match the way it had been wound like before by suzuki.

4. on the a/c side at 5000rpm i read 80 volts of ac output each lead.
i junked the stock suzuki regulator-rectifier for one off a zx600
has all the same wires as a suzuki and will not fail as easy.
this i have been doing for over 5 years never had one fail or fry a stator
yet. on the d/c side of things at 5000rpm i read 14.7 volts
i have all so installed 3 diods in each lead to stop any back voltage to the stator . so should the regulator-rectifier go bad the diods will blow and stop any back voltage from frying my stator..
i have put 1500 miles so far with no falt's

5. hi temp coating from from the place i got my wire. $5.00

6. and $5.00 for a can of beer.

7. one working stator
priceless.

could not have don't it with out you all and this great site!
​
 
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You da man Shawn!:) Only a highly knowledgeable enthusiast could accomplish a stator rewind with ONLY $5 beer. Makes me thirsty just thinking about it.;)
 
i have all so installed 3 diods in each lead to stop any back voltage to the stator . so should the regulator-rectifier go bad the diods will blow and stop any back voltage from frying my stator..
i have put 1500 miles so far with no falt's
Click to expand...

Impressive, I was worried at first when you did not provide any of the info. However I'm confused about the above. It doesn't seem that either a delta or Wye configuration would work at all with series blocking diodes in the legs coming from stator. Are you doing something else? 3 pairs of back to back diodes perhaps? :confused:
 
motocycle shawn said:
i have all so installed 3 diods in each lead to stop any back voltage to the stator . so should the regulator-rectifier go bad the diods will blow and stop any back voltage from frying my stator..
Click to expand...
Eh? It's not having anywhere for the voltage to go that makes stators burn up. Also the stator generates AC voltage, so the diodes ensure that half the power goes into heating the stator coils and half into the R/R. Did you get 14.7V with the diodes in?
 
stator

stator

one diode inline in each lead, voltage can only flow from the stator to the r/r.
the 14.7 is with the diode and with all the lights i have under the body i dont think i will have and over voltage troubles lol.. all i can say is it work so im rolling with it as long as i can. this man has to ride! gs are life chips . you cant have just one...

ray i will be taking the head off the motor to redo the head gasket.
and will pm you with what i find. i talked more with the man and he thinks its a 1250cc bike . that sound right? its a stock jug so how fare can you bore them or use a kit with out replacing the jug?
 
If it is a stock block & stock SLEEVES, it will be most likely an 1166. If it has been re-sleeved, it could be a 1260 or even as big as a 1327. Most likely I'm guessing it's an 1166. Ray.
 
Shawn

Shawn

one diode inline in each lead, voltage can only flow from the stator to the r/r.
Click to expand...

Well that is what I was assuming you were doing but don't now how that works at all????

In theory with the 3 phase winding in order for current to flow out of any leg, it has to be returning on another leg. Since the diodes are in theory blocking the return flow, then there will be no current flowing from the stator. Basically if the diodes really stop reverse flow it can work unless there is another path for the current to return. There would need to be another return path.

I don't doubt your results just trying to figure how it is working. What is the part number for the diode? If it has a reverse break down voltage then, it will start to flow once it breaks down. You are then dropping what every power that reverse voltage is times the current.

Posplayr
 
posplayr said:
Well that is what I was assuming you were doing but don't now how that works at all????

In theory with the 3 phase winding in order for current to flow out of any leg, it has to be returning on another leg. Since the diodes are in theory blocking the return flow, then there will be no current flowing from the stator. Basically if the diodes really stop reverse flow it can work unless there is another path for the current to return. There would need to be another return path.

I don't doubt your results just trying to figure how it is working. What is the part number for the diode? If it has a reverse break down voltage then, it will start to flow once it breaks down. You are then dropping what every power that reverse voltage is times the current.

Posplayr
Click to expand...
The current flows from the stator through the rectifier to the load. Any excess (that is not required by the load) is shunted to ground through the regulator. There shouldn't be any need for it to return to the stator.
 
The current flows from the stator through the rectifier to the load. Any excess (that is not required by the load) is shunted to ground through the regulator. There shouldn't be any need for it to return to the stator.
Click to expand...

Edit: Clarification; technically speaking all but the last sentence is correct. HOEVER: While the power is "shunted to ground", it is not shunted to the battery and it is entirely shunted inside of the R/R in order to return current to the stator. So while the words are correct they are inaccurate towards understanding what is actually happening.

Back to original post:

Sorry Red, that is not correct. Even the Suzuki manual show this quite clearly. This was something that I finally realized a while back and was the main motivation for me to post the infamous "ground loops" thread. look at the current flow from the frame ground into the R/R (-) ; it is returning to the stator.

Granted the text leaves the impression that the current flows from the stator through the R/R to the battery. Please understand this is not the only document for my technical analysis.

This current flow is fundamental to 3 phase power generation with full wave rectification.


http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=139115

RR_Rectifying.jpg
 
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Jim, I don't know how any of this magic electrical stuff works but if you get the diode part number will you give the diode trick a try on your bike?
 
Jim, I don't know how any of this magic electrical stuff works but if you get the diode part number will you give the diode trick a try on your bike?
Click to expand...

Ryan,
I have already sacraficed a GS1100ED head and 0.340" webcams to the GS charging gods, so I will think twice about testing any "fixes". The best technology for an R/R is the FH012AA.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=976540&postcount=133

I don't understand what is going on with Shawns diodes yet, but if he has a part number maybe we can figure it out. At this point my only guess is that he has added a diode drop in the stator diodes by revese biasing them to share the power from the charging system. They really need to be big else they will run very hot :-k.

The only other possibility is he has a short in the stator to ground.:eek: but I wont go there.
 
humm

humm

well this should fix it all.
today i went on a ride. and by the time i got back the battery was dead..
looked at the diodes and all 3 where cracked and blown!
guess this was not a good trick after all.
replaces the wires with out the diodes and its charging just the same.

any one know what and why?
the diodes say n4001

i did find a bad ground too!
but it was in the motor to battery ground

but with or without them i'm still charging at 14.7 at 5000 and starts every time. don't really mater any motor i got a big motor for it now and the stator is good in that motor..

1100's:dancing: are the shxt!
​
 
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Wow

Wow

thats a great link jim ... now i understand things better.
 
posplayr said:
Edit: Clarification; technically speaking all but the last sentence is correct. HOEVER: While the power is "shunted to ground", it is not shunted to the battery and it is entirely shunted inside of the R/R in order to return current to the stator. So while the words are correct they are inaccurate towards understanding what is actually happening.
Click to expand...

If I'm not mistaken, the battery is tied to ground and the R/R is tied to ground. Therefore, in a properly working system they should be at very nearly equal potentials.

My mistake on the coils. I didn't check to see if they were Delta or Wye.
 
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