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First Timer Guidance

  • Thread starter Thread starter crash-harris
  • Start date Start date
Is the problem with the open element pods that it allows the carbs too much air? I also have straight pipes, I believe the mufflers rusted off so my brother cut them clean and bolted on chrome tips. I found some info on one of the sites that was in the mega-welcome links that stated that you need to rejet for straight pipes as well. I figured I can get a single narrow (maybe 2" or 3" opening?) open element filter and y-pipe the carbs to use that same filter so the amount of air coming in is as close to the amount it would be stock.

Those links on the mega-welcome page are helpful indeed. Without stock exhaust I'm going to have to rejet anyway so I'm going to try my hand at it since I'll have the time, but I'm not ruling out using the stock airbox in the end either. Going to see if I can't pick one up just in case.
I much prefer riding to wrenching!
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Only motorcycle I've ever rode on has been a Kawasaki KX60 long ago before it was stolen, but I'm sure I'm going to be addicted to riding this thing on the street a lot more! With Bruiser I always prefer wheeling over wrenching! But I have to build stuff so it doesn't break :lol:
 
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Yeah, the pipes will require some re-jet as well IIRC. If you have the time and ambition turn it into whatever your imagination dictates. If you just want to get on the rode I'd pick up and airbox and find a passable 450 exhaust at the wreckers. I love to see the things people come up with for these little twins, there are even some great build in appearance mods. Poke around there for some ideas...here is a particulaly cool one: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=130171&highlight=450

I think he rejetted for pods and pipes too so may be able to get you close with that as well. Either way have fun!
 
Thanks for the link! I'm seriously thinking about making it a nice little long wheelbase bobber, but that's later on for sure. I may try to pick up stock pipes/mufflers as well and toy with the ones that are on it now and put them back on later.

***OFF TOPIC***
What does IIRC mean? I've never figured it out as of yet...

**Back on topic**
 
Thank you.

Going to pick the key up from my brother tomorrow (and maybe the title if he can find it). Going to hook the charger up to it see which rear turn signal is which and see what all need looked at electric-wise. Also going to start tomorrow by removing the pipes so they can be cleaned and I think I'm going to prep the engine for removal so I can strip the junk off of it.

I'm also thinking about going to Lowe's sometime and getting a decent sized sheet of diamond plate steel and cutting out side panels. Opinions?
 
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I'll put that on the list. When I took the pipes off the H-pipe was very poorly patched on one side and the other side was full of holes. I'm thinking (I seem to be diong a lot of that!) about just cutting out the H-pipe altogether and welding in a patch over the openings for it.
 
Hey crash-harris. Where is there a bike yard near Chillocothe (sp?).
I'm from Hillsboro and live in Indy now. I get get home a couple times a summer and would like to check it out and see if there's anything there for me. For some odd reason, there's not many in the Indy area.:)
 
It's north or Waverly on 23, called Sharp's. I'm not really sure if it's still open or not but I'm going to check and see sometime this weekend.
 
crash-harris said:
I'll put that on the list. When I took the pipes off the H-pipe was very poorly patched on one side and the other side was full of holes. I'm thinking (I seem to be diong a lot of that!) about just cutting out the H-pipe altogether and welding in a patch over the openings for it.
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Hopefully someone else will chime in on this one, but I believe that the cross pipe is important in helping maintain proper pressure equalization between cylinders? If so just eliminating the connection may not be the best choice?
 
If it's needed then I'll weld one in or I may just have to make all new exhuast and reuse the flanges that attach to the engine. I think Richharr is going true dual with his chopper build though which is what made me question the H-pipe's importance.
 
maparker said:
Hopefully someone else will chime in on this one, but I believe that the cross pipe is important in helping maintain proper pressure equalization between cylinders? If so just eliminating the connection may not be the best choice?
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Supposedly, that crossover pipe was put in by Zook to create even scavanging and backpressure...etc. Technical crap that im not qualified to explain..The EARLY models of GSs didnt have them to begin with. I prefer the sound of THOSE pipes over the ones with the crossover. Its a smoother whoooosh rather than that slightly motorboat-ish putter... They all have a pretty good throaty growl to them for stock pipes tho.. So, in short, its not going to make much of a noticable difference if you DONT use the pipes with the crossover...
 
Cool. I know that with autos and such the H and X pipe setup has normally been used to quiet the exhuast using the excuse of backpressure (the great exhaust myth). Scavanging and exhaust velocity are the 2 that together make things good. I think the H-pipe design actually hinders exhust velocity.

On the Dynojet kits, for running straight pipes and pods would I need the "SUZ 83 GS450 STANDARD FLOAT" kit? for stages it says 1&3. And what all is included in the kit?
 
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crash-harris said:
Cool. I know that with autos and such the H and X pipe setup has normally been used to quiet the exhuast using the excuse of backpressure (the great exhaust myth). Scavanging and exhaust velocity are the 2 that together make things good. I think the H-pipe design actually hinders exhust velocity.

On the Dynojet kits, for running straight pipes and pods would I need the "SUZ 83 GS450 STANDARD FLOAT" kit? for stages it says 1&3. And what all is included in the kit?
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That's the one
 
Awesome. So now I've found it, what all is in it? Jets of course, but primaries and secondaries or more?

As for an update, I got the key late tonight and hooked the battery charger up to the battery leads on the bike. First key turn, red light on dash comes on, headlight flikered when I hit the seat. Found a loose ground wire under there and grounded it, headlight on all the time. Jimmied the turn signal switch and found out which rear light is which, but they don't blink nor do they turn on with the headlight. When I light one of the rear turn lamps a yellow light on the dash appears. Horn works too. Turned the key to the last position and everything turns off. Starter button does absolutely nothing (in any gear) and nothing works with the key turned all the way. Suggestions?
 
Pull the clutch in and see if that gets things going. Safety switch wired into the clutch.
The Dyno kits come with jets and needles. Also drill bits to drill the slides and to get the idle screw cap off.
 
I'll do that. I actual was doing that when I was trying to see if the starter would turn over, but I realized that earlier today I had disconnected the clutch. I took off the plate where the shifter is so I could get to the wiring when I go to dismount the engine.
 
crash-harris said:
It's north or Waverly on 23, called Sharp's. I'm not really sure if it's still open or not but I'm going to check and see sometime this weekend.
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I think i remember seeing that place, but it's sure been awhile. If it's right off 23 (can see it from the highway) then i know i've seen it.

I'd forgoten about it though. Been a long time since i was through there.
 
Yep, that's the one. My brother says it looks like it's closed from the highway, but I believe that there is another yard just behind it that you can't see from the highway that still has bikes in it. I'll report back on whether it's still open or not after I check it out this weekend.
 
Instead of using 2 open element filters, would it be a bad idea to feed both carbs from a single 3" filter?
 
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