Fix the cam float problem or get another head?

[ddaniels]

I don't know if it's because I now have a radio and can't hear it as much, but I decided to fill it up this time with premium gas and the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud now. I did turn the radio off to listen too. Hmmm.

 

[north49]

OK....I just did the cam float repair mod as described by Ian Grant. The bike has 80 K miles on it and now sounds like new. Thanks again Ian for the brilliant diagnosis and repair of this problem.
I did the mod without removing the cams or head.....just the caps. If you can't do this mod yourself, then it would probably be cheaper to buy a used head and cams.
In any case, it's some kinda wonderfull to get rid of the really horrible rattle in an other wise great engine.

 

[TheCafeKid]

I don't know if it's because I now have a radio and can't hear it as much, but I decided to fill it up this time with premium gas and the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud now. I did turn the radio off to listen too. Hmmm.

If, in fact, premium made the ticking go away, or less, then I would definately suspect your timing/advance as a possible problem. It's either slightly retarded, or your advancer is sticking (if it has mech advance) or your ignitor is messed (if it's electronic advance). It's worth a look either way, running premium is sort of expensive, and fixing the bike might cost nothing. If you find that your mech advance is crapped let me know, I have a box full of em..

 

[blowerbike]

If, in fact, premium made the ticking go away, or less, then I would definately suspect your timing/advance as a possible problem. It's either slightly retarded, or your advancer is sticking (if it has mech advance) or your ignitor is messed (if it's electronic advance). It's worth a look either way, running premium is sort of expensive, and fixing the bike might cost nothing. If you find that your mech advance is crapped let me know, I have a box full of em..

carbon man....lots of carbon.

 

[ddaniels]

Best way to get rid of the carbon??

Not sure if the advance is mechanical or electronic. I'll be checking on that.

Glad to hear your mod got rid of your noises north49! I wish I had the machinery to do my own work like that.

 

[north49]

Hi ddaniels...... it's really quick and easy to check the cam end float. If you check it, at least you'll know and then deal with it (or not). If you have a high mileage engine and the rattle seems to be in the top end then end float is the probable source.
cheers

 

[Dogma]

Best way to get rid of the carbon??

Not sure if the advance is mechanical or electronic. I'll be checking on that.

Glad to hear your mod got rid of your noises north49! I wish I had the machinery to do my own work like that.

I've heard it said that injecting small amounts of water into the intake of the running engine will blast the carbon out. Something about how it flashes to steam blasting it off was the explanation, but I suspect it's more of a chemical thing.

Lotsa hits on Google. I'm not sure of the best way to actually get the water in there on our bikes. I saw one YouTube video of squirting water into the brake booster vacuum line on a Honda Civic. Perhaps we could do this to the crankcase vent nipple on the air box.

 

[Steve]

I'm not sure of the best way to actually get the water in there on our bikes. I saw one YouTube video of squirting water into the brake booster vacuum line on a Honda Civic. Perhaps we could do this to the crankcase vent nipple on the air box.

How about an adapter into the sync port on the manifold? :-k

.

 

[ddaniels]

I've heard it said that injecting small amounts of water into the intake of the running engine will blast the carbon out. Something about how it flashes to steam blasting it off was the explanation, but I suspect it's more of a chemical thing.

Lotsa hits on Google. I'm not sure of the best way to actually get the water in there on our bikes. I saw one YouTube video of squirting water into the brake booster vacuum line on a Honda Civic. Perhaps we could do this to the crankcase vent nipple on the air box.

Hmmmm. I don't know. Sounds kinda risky to me. Maybe I'll just try running some more Seafoam through a few more tanks.

North49, my bike has just over 5000 on the clock, so not high mileage at all. I'll take the top apart again at the end of the season and see what I can see, and if I can do anything about it.

 

[tkent02]

How about an adapter into the sync port on the manifold? :-k

.

Yep, use the same tubes you use to synch the carbs. Go for a ride, get the engine good and hot, open a little fishbowl valve letting in a trickle of water, run a gallon or so through it while you cruise down the road. Clean as a whistle inside. Easy stuff.

If you have ever taken apart a liquid cooled engine with a coolant leak into the combustion chamber, you know how well it works.

 

[raistian77]

Yep, use the same tubes you use to synch the carbs. Go for a ride, get the engine good and hot, open a little fishbowl valve letting in a trickle of water, run a gallon or so through it while you cruise down the road. Clean as a whistle inside. Easy stuff.

If you have ever taken apart a liquid cooled engine with a coolant leak into the combustion chamber, you know how well it works.

+1 when doing cracked head or head gasket repairs, the CLEAN piston is the one burning water (it will look darn new)

 

[BadBillyB]

Hmmmm. I don't know. Sounds kinda risky to me. Maybe I'll just try running some more Seafoam through a few more tanks.

North49, my bike has just over 5000 on the clock, so not high mileage at all. I'll take the top apart again at the end of the season and see what I can see, and if I can do anything about it.

Forget about the Seafoam, the trick is to run water through the combustion chamber as others have advised. The sync ports on the intake tract is the perfect place....No point in taking anything apart unless there is still an issue after doing things already suggested...You never said whether or not you checked the advance mechanism or the ignition timing.......By the way, I graduated from Fairborn High School back in 1973 and lived right next to the Wright Bros Memorial.....No offense, but I dont miss Ohio at all.....Love it in Florida..... Ride on Sunday....fish on Monday

 

[ddaniels]

Forget about the Seafoam, the trick is to run water through the combustion chamber as others have advised. The sync ports on the intake tract is the perfect place....No point in taking anything apart unless there is still an issue after doing things already suggested...You never said whether or not you checked the advance mechanism or the ignition timing.......By the way, I graduated from Fairborn High School back in 1973 and lived right next to the Wright Bros Memorial.....No offense, but I dont miss Ohio at all.....Love it in Florida..... Ride on Sunday....fish on Monday

I haven't checked the advance mechanism yet. Been kinda lazy lately and just enjoying riding it in this great weather we've been having this week.

I live fairly close to Fairborn. When you say Wright Bros memorial, are you talking about Wright Memorial Hill? Ohio's ok. I like it here except for the "sinus valley" issue. It's a bit milder here than in the Chicago area (Joliet) where I grew up. And I've been here longer than I was there, so this is more like home to me now.

How would I go about getting the water to go into the engine through the sync tubes? What mechanism would hold the water and insert it? Would I do this while riding, or idling? I may go ahead and give it a try.

Incidentally, after going through the tank of premium, and now running regular, I decided that there really isn't any difference between the two with respect to the noise level of the ticking.

 

[Dogma]

I like Tkent02's plan. I already have the vacuum adapters, I just need to run to the pet store to get fittings and hose. I figure an old milk jug, the valve, etc. can ride in my tank bag.

After I get the electrics back together and it's on the road again, that is. Never enough time to do anything lately.