Fixing Rusted Out Gas Tank

[Badooka]

This may be exactly what you need, it's a liquid steel epoxy that flows and will do just what you want and not have to worry about the burn through issues.
Item number is 10210. 100% permanent and solvent proof and titanium based.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=...87_a_7c3466_a_7c262100101_d_262100101_d_11415

 

[Nessism]

So, flowed some silver over the repair area and it seem like a good fix. Put some paint stripper in the tank to break down the liner and the tank has four leaks. Small ones at least, and in different areas than I'd been working. Will rinse out the tank with mineral spirits and braze the holes closed after the current batch of stripper runs out of gas. I don't want to use epoxy on the holes since the chemicals will just eat though it.

The liner looks like Redkote, which supposedly breaks down with MEK, Acetone, and paint stripper. Wanted to use MEK but the California ninny government seems to have outlawed the stuff. That's the way CA rolls; they over regulation everything and have one of the highest unemployment rate in the country.

 

[Charlie G]

I to have a skunk tank I'd like to repair the leaks on. I'm with you on not wanting to use non metalic, epoxy based solution. I plan on trying a non-flame based soldering technique I use on sheetmetal flashings and pans I make. The liner in my tank is a cream or white color. Any tips on what it might be or how to remove?

cg

 

[Nessism]

I to have a skunk tank I'd like to repair the leaks on. I'm with you on not wanting to use non metalic, epoxy based solution. I plan on trying a non-flame based soldering technique I use on sheetmetal flashings and pans I make. The liner in my tank is a cream or white color. Any tips on what it might be or how to remove?

cg

White liner means Kreem. MEK or paint stripper will take it out.

 

[Badooka]

That's the same stuff different name we use on F-4 fuel leaks and it held at mach 2- quite sure it would deal with gas on a bike at a 100mph.

 

[Nessism]

That's the same stuff different name we use on F-4 fuel leaks and it held at mach 2- quite sure it would deal with gas on a bike at a 100mph.

As already mentioned, the tank MUST be fluid tight since I'm using paint stripper and acetone to strip out the old liner. I don't trust epoxy to hold up to these chemicals.

 

[Charlie G]

White liner means Kreem. MEK or paint stripper will take it out.

Thanks Ed.

cg

 

[Badooka]

I trusted this stuff- with my life. MEK is a good solvent but there are better. Citrus based strippers are less caustic and equally effective. Give it a try and you won't be disappointed.

 

[Nessism]

Currently working on stripping out the Red Kote liner. Tried paint stripper first and it softened the liner, but didn't remove that much. Trialed a few liner chunks in acetone and they desolve pretty fast so that's what's in the tank now, along with aquarium rocks. Still have a few leaks, but patched over them with duct tape for now. After I get the liner out I'll have another go at brazing them closed before derusting. Bought some phosphoric acid solution and will use that after the liner is all gone. Hopefully the tank won't spring too many leaks while derusting.

 

[hampshirehog]

Ed one thing I have always done after using acetone in tank (well, cellulose thinners - pretty similar stuff if not exactly the same) is to wash the tank out afterwards with washing powder. You probably call it laundry powder - the stuff the missus throws in a machine that washes clothes. Followed by a really good rinse with water. That powder eats anything organic (in the chemistry sense) so the idea is that if any acetone has reacted with something inside your tank and formed a new compound it should be neutralised so that it can't break down with ethanol. It's probably not essential but I just feel safer that way.

 

[Badooka]

Have you ever tried what we called speed tape? It's the metallic tape with heavy adhesive for skin repair- also sold as furnace tape- and real duct tape.
Not the type with fabric on the mix.

 

[Nessism]

Managed to get the tank derusted over the weekend. Patched over the known holes with JB Weld and dumped in a gallon of phosphoric acid and some aquarium rocks. Tank sprung a few more leaks during the derusting but the phosphate worked a treat.

Going to dress down all my hack brazing next and see about rebrazing everything now that the rust and old liner is gone. The plan is to get this tank liquid tight without a liner, then it will get a Caswell's epoxy liner. Caswell's liner is really thick and should help reinforce the metal. Por-15 is another consideration, but I like Caswell's when the metal is thin in places.

 

[Badooka]

Nice! Caswell's has some great products!

 

[chuck hahn]

ED...you can add a shot glass full of laquer thinner to the Daswell to make it flow better. As you roll it around a little more will build up each time and youll end up with a much more uniform thickness throughout the entire tank. I drained mine and let it sit upright with nthe purpose of allowing anything still flowing to settle along the bottom seamed areas.

 

[Nessism]

ED...you can add a shot glass full of laquer thinner to the Daswell to make it flow better. As you roll it around a little more will build up each time and youll end up with a much more uniform thickness throughout the entire tank. I drained mine and let it sit upright with nthe purpose of allowing anything still flowing to settle along the bottom seamed areas.

Chuck,
Can't find instructions on the epoxy where they authorize thinning it. Does it say that on the can or do they provide instructions with the product? That stuff is killer thick so thinning is a good idea I think.

Bought the phosphate from Home Depot per a suggestion you made. Great stuff! Completely ate all the rust off the tank in only a few hours. Had some crud hanging inside the tank in places and the aquarium rocks did the trick on them.

What did you use inside the tank to stop any flash rusting? Don't want to use WD-40 since the oil will inhibit the sealer from sticking.

 

[chuck hahn]

Yes ..it is stated in the instruction sheet that will be in the kit.

 

[chuck hahn]

Mix up a few ounces of gas with a shot of motor oil in it and swish that around. When it comes time to do the coating you can rinse it with some acetone again and get it oil free for the lining..in fact the kit will give degreasing suggestions in the instruction sheet. Paint isnt an issue obviously, so the acetone wont hurt anything...just get it degreased real good .

 

[rustybronco]

In the instructions for the product.

In the event that working in higher temperatures are inevitable, you can add a small amount of Xylene or lacquer thinner to the mix (no more than 5% - i.e. 1 fl
oz in the motorcycle kit, 2 fl oz in the car kit). This serves to retard the cure cycle and thin the sealer somewhat to expand coverage). This is also advisable if
you plan to split the sealer between two tanks.

http://support.caswellplating.com/i...icle/View/142/19/gas-tank-sealer-instructions

 

[salty_monk]

Nice! Good to see it's working out

 

[chuck hahn]

A shot glass is "approximately" 1 ounce. Close enough for this application. And when they say stir for 2 minutes,,stir for 2 minutes... TIMED... and scrape the sides of the mix container often to be sure its as mixed as you can possibly get it.