Float Post Repair

[Chris Bohane]

This is a CV carb of a GS1000 with one of the arms that holds the float via a spindle. Question is how can I fix it back on? I know it doesn't have to take much load. However, whatever I use obviously has to be petrol resistant. Would something like araldite do it?
And for those wondering how this could happen, well I'm not saying due to the shame factor. I will however, reveal all for your general amusement on receipt of a solution (this does not include throw it away and buy a new one!).
Thanks in advance.
Roger.





Same thoughts here, though I think I'd say Chemical Metal or JB Weld as I've never really had much success with Araldite.

One thing I'd do to help it stick would be to rough up those smooth surfaces with a Dremel or similar. In terms of how much filler to slap around the joint (as much as you can/as little as you can) I'd go for the former: it's not like it's really going to affect the float level to any great extent.


Roger

You will have to make sure you drill the centres of the holes exactly or the pillar wont sit correctly and then the pin wont go back in.
If im correct the pin only goes in from one direction so if you tried to drift it out the wrong way you would snap it off..........you could use the pin to line it all up as you araldite it............but is araldite petrol resistant ? What about using LUMIWELD? Its a DIY aluminium welding system. If you got a kit to do this mend then you could use it again in future when you break other stuff ..........pardon the pun ha ha
good luck in any case
Rob

[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]I`ve encountered this problem more times than I can remember. A few years ago there were thousands of old GS models being brought into the country that had been standing for years in garages in USA, Italy etc. Invariably people use to break these trying to get the retaining pin out. I tried all the above suggested methods without a great deal of success. Unfortunately they use a strange zinc alloy for the carbs and it doesn`t take too kindly to drilling, though it can be done. None of the chemical metal type glues used to last long before it came apart. I gave up eventually and just replaced the broken carb with a good one, as I ended up with lots of broken sets to play with. GSX1100 ET/EX/EZ/Katana uses the same carb if that`s any help.[/FONT]

__________________
Barry guessed it.
Looks like it's not that uncommon - which may make it harder to track down a replacement. Think I'll try that though seems I can widen the search to a GSX1100.
I reckon it looks too brittle to brittle to drill and as Rob says I'd have to get them dead straight.
Cheers for the feedback guys.
By the way I've still got one more pin to remove. I'll keep you posted!


If the pin is siezed break the float away from the pin, it will be easier to free the pin of and cheaper to get hold of a new float

__________________
Gary
So, my opinion, spend the money on the bike and the rider stays the same = no difference.

Spend the money on the rider and the bike stays the same = very different.

I showed the problem to a friend of mine who came up with the following:

I thought it might be too brittle but he's used a 1.5mm drill bit, a piece of copper tube and panel pins. It's not quite parallel with the other side but close enough. Also it's well solid and I can't see it coming off.
Thanks again.
Roger.

I copied this from the Suzuki owners club site.

A different way to repair the float pivot post.

I hope this is of interest.

Regards,
Chris

 

[t3rmin]

Would the bowl still fit with that copper tube method?

I tried JB Weld but it eventually broke down. What DID work was drilling a hole in the stub and a matching hole in the carb where it broke, cutting a section of nail slightly larger than the hole (for a nice interference fit), then hammering it back on with the nail section pin in the holes. Very strong, impervious to gas, and doesn't look half bad, either.

 

[tkent02]

I tried JB Weld but it eventually broke down.

Was it JB or some other brand?
I thought JB was forever in gasoline.

 

[salty_monk]

JB seems ok so far in my slides....

Dan

 

[t3rmin]

Was it JB or some other brand?
I thought JB was forever in gasoline.

It was JB, and not the 5 minute or putty kind either. Straight-up brand name, plain-jain JB. I thought it would stand up to the gas, too, and even admonished folks here for saying otherwise, but nevertheless, it eventually failed.

I trusted the strength and longevity of the pinning fix eversomuch better than the glue anyway. Not fragile at all. Good piece of mind.

I do have JB in the slides of my XS and feel pretty good about it. It's a bit more of a substantial amount and it's not total gas immersion, nor a poor mechanical butt joint.

 

[Roostabunny]

This is a CV carb of a GS1000 with one of the arms that holds the float via a spindle. Question is how can I fix it back on? I know it doesn't have to take much load. However, whatever I use obviously has to be petrol resistant. Would something like araldite do it?
And for those wondering how this could happen, well I'm not saying due to the shame factor. I will however, reveal all for your general amusement on receipt of a solution (this does not include throw it away and buy a new one!).
Thanks in advance.
Roger.





Same thoughts here, though I think I'd say Chemical Metal or JB Weld as I've never really had much success with Araldite.

One thing I'd do to help it stick would be to rough up those smooth surfaces with a Dremel or similar. In terms of how much filler to slap around the joint (as much as you can/as little as you can) I'd go for the former: it's not like it's really going to affect the float level to any great extent.


Roger

You will have to make sure you drill the centres of the holes exactly or the pillar wont sit correctly and then the pin wont go back in.
If im correct the pin only goes in from one direction so if you tried to drift it out the wrong way you would snap it off..........you could use the pin to line it all up as you araldite it............but is araldite petrol resistant ? What about using LUMIWELD? Its a DIY aluminium welding system. If you got a kit to do this mend then you could use it again in future when you break other stuff ..........pardon the pun ha ha
good luck in any case
Rob

[FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]I`ve encountered this problem more times than I can remember. A few years ago there were thousands of old GS models being brought into the country that had been standing for years in garages in USA, Italy etc. Invariably people use to break these trying to get the retaining pin out. I tried all the above suggested methods without a great deal of success. Unfortunately they use a strange zinc alloy for the carbs and it doesn`t take too kindly to drilling, though it can be done. None of the chemical metal type glues used to last long before it came apart. I gave up eventually and just replaced the broken carb with a good one, as I ended up with lots of broken sets to play with. GSX1100 ET/EX/EZ/Katana uses the same carb if that`s any help.[/FONT]

__________________
Barry guessed it.
Looks like it's not that uncommon - which may make it harder to track down a replacement. Think I'll try that though seems I can widen the search to a GSX1100.
I reckon it looks too brittle to brittle to drill and as Rob says I'd have to get them dead straight.
Cheers for the feedback guys.
By the way I've still got one more pin to remove. I'll keep you posted!


If the pin is siezed break the float away from the pin, it will be easier to free the pin of and cheaper to get hold of a new float

__________________
Gary
So, my opinion, spend the money on the bike and the rider stays the same = no difference.

Spend the money on the rider and the bike stays the same = very different.

I showed the problem to a friend of mine who came up with the following:

I thought it might be too brittle but he's used a 1.5mm drill bit, a piece of copper tube and panel pins. It's not quite parallel with the other side but close enough. Also it's well solid and I can't see it coming off.
Thanks again.
Roger.

I copied this from the Suzuki owners club site.

A different way to repair the float pivot post.

I hope this is of interest.

Regards,
Chris

Wow! Looks downright medieval!

 

[tkent02]

It was JB, and not the 5 minute or putty kind either. Straight-up brand name, plain-jain JB. I thought it would stand up to the gas, too, and even admonished folks here for saying otherwise, but nevertheless, it eventually failed.

OK, I will change my tune. I like the midieval look anyway.

 

[t3rmin]

OK, I will change my tune. I like the midieval look anyway.

My drill-a-hole-and-pin method looks much better and is simpler. ;-)