Flushing drive system

[Guest]

This has nothing to do with Flushing, Queens in NYC.

have drained the F&R drives on the GS 850. Before I fill, idea occurred to me that after 40 years would it be a good or bad idea to flush out the 2 chambers with kerosene or another product. I would guess that the slow draining would allow a bunch of gunk to remain.

I would let the kero sit in there for a day or two, drain it out and clear sections with compressed air before adding the drive fluid.

Any & all input gleefully accepted.

Thanks, as always.

DH

 

[TeamDar]

I would just use clean motor oil. Run it in gear on the center stand to circulate it in the gearboxes. Then drain and fill with gear lube.

 

[Gorminrider]

Yes, I do as TeamDar says...Just letting kero or whatever "sit" does little. If you could slosh it around vigourously, it will move stuff. Kind of like washing dishes by merely soaking them in water....mind you, sitting water will pull the loosest grease up, but you propably don't want to fill your gearbox with soap and water, do you?

if you've been diligently changing the oil, a flush is probably unnecessary anyways. If there's Nasty stuff that gets stuck into corners it won't come out anyways without dia-assembly and is better left alone.

 

[grcamna2]

I would just use clean motor oil. Run it in gear on the center stand to circulate it in the gearboxes. Then drain and fill with gear lube.

I think it's best when the case is flushed and still hot/warm from a ride when draining the old fluids,imo.I like the idea of motor oil because of the detergents in it,can help wash-out stuff.

 

[alke46]

Another reason that chains rule.

 

[Nessism]

Personally, if you think sludge has built up I'd simply put the bike on a shorter change interval next time. After a couple of cycles the case will be clean. Solvents or thin oils are almost impossible to fully remove, which is why I wouldn't go this route.

 

[Guest]

Personally, if you think sludge has built up I'd simply put the bike on a shorter change interval next time. After a couple of cycles the case will be clean. Solvents or thin oils are almost impossible to fully remove, which is why I wouldn't go this route.

Thanks to all for the wisdom. OK, ix-nay on the erosenekay flush. It's been probably two years since last change, I used to do it every spring. In fact I used to do my spring servicing way earlier in the year Old age getting the better of me. Was having too much fun riding & kept putting it off. Since I was putting new tires on (Shinko 712s) & I had the bike on the lift for oil/filter change, I thought I better do it all. Just finished mounting the new rear tire, should have the front done next day or two. Waiting for the Ride-On sealer/balancer bottle to arrive so not in a rush. Getting harder to do the tires by hand what with arthritis in the hands, seems like it used to be easier.

Thanks again.

Be safe & buy local honey!

DH

 

[Nessism]

Are you keeping up with rear drive spline grease maintenance? That's where these old bikes commonly fail.

 

[Guest]

Are you keeping up with rear drive spline grease maintenance? That's where these old bikes commonly fail.

Really only has been done when new rear tire goes on. so since 2002, 5 times in about 65k miles. Now that you have wised me up, will add to yearly service plan. Thanks. I probably get away with a lot as I ride so slow and gently and avoid rain completely.

Thanks!

DH

 

[Nessism]

5 times in 65k is reasonable. Most guys do it when changing the rear tire. Just be sure to use some super high moly grease (approx. 50% moly) and you should be fine.