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Fork Adjustments on 82 GS1100E

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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I got my Suzuki manual today (like a kid with a new toy! :) ) and I have been browsing through it. I see that the 82 fork has both preload adjustments and what looks like rebound damping adjustments on it. Very cool, much better than I expected. So I run out to the garage to try them out.

1) The preload adjusters are IMPOSSIBLE to turn, even with a wrench on the screwdriver shaft. The poor thing looks like it lived its entire life outside (until now - nothing but garage time from now on :D ), so they may well be frozen. How hard should these be to turn? The top of the screw is well buried in the fork cap, so I imagine they are pegged at full hard, does that sound about right? Any tips for freeing these up, besides fork disassembly? I plan to strip the forks this winter and install Race Tech springs and emulators, so I can wait, but I want to try playing a bit first... :)

2) The damping adjusters are for rebound, correct? It looks like it but the exploded view and descriptions are a bit vague on this point.

3) One damping knob turns OK with finger pressure while the other one is frozen solid. Both knobs are rotting away. Any chance of disassembling these pieces to free the stuck knob and replacing both plastic pieces, or am I hooped?

4) The air pressure setup will be going when I install the new springs. From the looks of the exploded views, there is a hole through the upper fork leg to allow pressure into the leg from the outer fitting/sleeve. Can I tap this hole and seal it with a plug? And I will need to make up spacers to hold the headlight brackets in place correctly when the air fittings are ditched, correct? Should be no problem, I just want to know if I am missing anything?

5) I see that the anti-dive unit has the O-ring grooves in its body and the fork has the flat face for sealing against. That's somewhat inconvenient when removing the anti-dive unit. :( What have other people done to seal this when using a block-off plate? Cut new O-ring grooves in the block-off plate, YamaBond sealant, gasket material or what?

Thanks for any advice offered,
Mark
 
As far as the pre load adjusters go, they are hard to turn. I have a large (BIG) screwdriver that fits the slot good and snug and then push down useing both hands while twisting. They may need to be sprayed and soaked in WD-40 or the like until they loosen up some. But you do have to slightly compress the spring somewhat to do it. Chances are that they are as far down as they'll go because stock springs (I assume yours are) sack out in no time. I can't really comment on the other mods you plan to do since I haven't been there. I recently installed a set of Progressive springs and fresh fork oil and am very happy with the results. I've yet to put air in the forks or use any preload. I'm sure that removing the air lines and plugging the holes is do-able.
 
As to your questions....not sure
But I'm with Jeff on this.
I had new fork seals, Progressive springs and 15 weight oil installed.
NO air in the forks, both sides on the lowest settings and this bike handles great. It's a 1982 GS1100E, now with 11,897 miles on it.

I also did new Progressive shocks for the rear.
 
As far as the pre load adjusters go, they are hard to turn.
Click to expand...

I was trying to do the push down & turn thing, but it was no go. I guess I will wait until I strip the forks, rather than keep fighting it and end up screwing up the slot. As far as I know, the springs are stock and yes, they are sacked.

I have decided to try disabling the anti-dive by blocking off the unit while leaving it on the fork leg. If that is the improvement I am expecting, then I will think about the block-off plate some more.

The main reason for wanting to plug the air ports is to allow me to slide the fork tubes up in the triples without the hole moving out from under the sleeves. I will have to look at how much play there is under the sleeves and make a choice when I get there. I am definitely not going to run air, it is simply a crutch to try and fix what is really a spring rate issue and is a poor solution at best.

Mark
 
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