• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Fork air question

  • Thread starter Thread starter C.V.
  • Start date Start date
C

C.V.

Guest
Is there a tricky way to eliminate the fork air neccesity in my '79 850...without the progressive springs upgrade? My budget is shot at the moment, and progressives will have to wait.

I have a slow leak in the left tube due to a mangled valve, and I am looking for a stopgap solution untill i can afford the progressives. I also know new valves are available, but i am having trouble flying all this stuff in under the wifes radar...:eek: so I'd rather just lose the air.

I know that springs can be cut down, or the preload can be increased, will any of these help to eliminate the air?

I am not heavy, 260 to 265, depending on what I ate...

Just looking for some suggestions. thanks guys.
 
C.V. said:
Is there a tricky way to eliminate the fork air neccesity in my '79 850...without the progressive springs upgrade? My budget is shot at the moment, and progressives will have to wait.

I have a slow leak in the left tube due to a mangled valve, and I am looking for a stopgap solution untill i can afford the progressives. I also know new valves are available, but i am having trouble flying all this stuff in under the wifes radar...:eek: so I'd rather just lose the air.

I know that springs can be cut down, or the preload can be increased, will any of these help to eliminate the air?

I am not heavy, 260 to 265, depending on what I ate...

Just looking for some suggestions. thanks guys.
Click to expand...
PVC spacers can be used to adjust the preload. Just use a fender washer between the PVC and the spring. You'll need to try different lengths to get the sag right. Sag is the difference in fork length with the wheel off the ground with the fork fully extended. Take a measurement for that then set the bike on the ground and put your weight in the seat. Take another measurement and see what the difference is. You should shoot for about 1 1/4" of difference.
 
yep what Billy said, I would just add use schedule 40 pvc spacers. I used PVC couplers in mine, thicker wall so they are stronger.
 
Simply adding more preload will not accomplish much, but cutting out some coils (4” worth or so) and replacing them will a PVC spacer will increase the spring rate. Will this be enough for a 260# guy? Not sure, but nothing to loose so why not try?
 
The stock seals rely on the air pressure to seal correctly, so your seals will probably start leaking. The best stopgap solution is for someone to send you a valve. I may have one in the shed, I'll check.
 
Thats interesting, does everyone who does the progressive upgrade upgrade fork seals also?

A new valve would definitely be the easiest fix. How weenie is it that my budget is so blown I'm having trouble with a dam 12 dollar part!?! Not affording it, just convincing the wife I need to spend MORE money on the bike.
 
Today 12:09 PM C.V. Thats interesting, does everyone who does the progressive upgrade upgrade fork seals also?
Click to expand...

I think most who take the forks completely apart go ahead and do the seals. I did that on mine figuring if I did not the law of averages would get me as soon as I re-assembled them and my seals would then start to leak. If you just swap the springs out then you probably can get by with the seals that are in it if they are not leaking.
 
Don-lo said:
The stock seals rely on the air pressure to seal correctly, so your seals will probably start leaking.
Click to expand...

I?m not using air in my forks and the seals are holding just fine. Where did you get this information that the seals are different for air forks?
 
C.V. said:
Thats interesting, does everyone who does the progressive upgrade upgrade fork seals also?

A new valve would definitely be the easiest fix. How weenie is it that my budget is so blown I'm having trouble with a dam 12 dollar part!?! Not affording it, just convincing the wife I need to spend MORE money on the bike.
Click to expand...
Hey, at least you have your priorities straight.

As Ed stated setting the preload for your weight won't do anything for the spring rate. If the bike doesn't dive excessively under braking or compress too much over large bumps then the spring rate might be okay. If you do experience excessive fork travel I'd go ahead and cut the springs then make up for that with additional length on the preload spacers. Increasing air pressure is a poor way to stiffen the ride anyway. As long as you don't have leaking seals don't worry about them.
 
I don't get that about the seals... there is nothing special about them & if there was I doubt they would require air pressure to seal the oil..

There should be no air pressure against them if my thinking of how they work is correct.

Stock springs were way too soft for me on the 1000 even at 165lb, with a 550 I brought back to life recently I was able to remove a small spring from inside & put a spacer in it's place (there was 2 springs in there). That was about 4" long.

I would definitely try cutting at least 4" from the spring & putting a spacer in there. I have a set of stock GS1000 springs too if they are any use.

At your weight I might think about cutting 4 - 5" off & putting a spacer back at 5 or 6".

I would also consider upping the oil weight from 15w to 20w as that will 1. help the damper control the extra weight in the spring 2. increase compression damping on the downstroke which will also serve to help "stiffen" the spring (it will help to stop it diving).

Dan :)
 
I was going to bring up heavier oil to increase damping but figured since he was on a budget... That is a good recommendation though for everyone reading this thread.
 
Billy Ricks said:
Hey, at least you have your priorities straight.

As Ed stated setting the preload for your weight won't do anything for the spring rate. If the bike doesn't dive excessively under braking or compress too much over large bumps then the spring rate might be okay. If you do experience excessive fork travel I'd go ahead and cut the springs then make up for that with additional length on the preload spacers. Increasing air pressure is a poor way to stiffen the ride anyway. As long as you don't have leaking seals don't worry about them.
Click to expand...
The dive is pretty bad, but it doesn't bottom out. It improves dramitically with a fresh shot of air, but reverts after a bit of time. My real issue, I think, is uneven dampening due due imbalanced air pressure between the 2 fork legs, ends up feeling generally unstable, particularly while cornering. I can't check the pressure in the left leg, due to the mangled valve.

Is there a trick to cutting the springs, or just bust out the ruler and the hacksaw?

Hey, at least you have your priorities straight.
Click to expand...
I know who butters my bread! :D She's really pretty good, but I just spent a bunch of money on other stuff, and its getting to be a harder and harder sell. The "safety issue" excuse seems to lose credibility after a while...:-\\\
 
Hack saw will work fine or an angle grinder if you have access to one. Just try to cut it in a way that the end of the coil is flat relative to the surface it contacts. Take a file to the end of the coil if you have to. If you're able to change the fork oil that will help too.
 
I am looking through my boxes of paintball stuff, for a Low Pressure Regulator, and some hoses.

All forks leak... as far as I can tell. But a few psi makes a world of difference. :-)
 
Billy Ricks said:
I was going to bring up heavier oil to increase damping but figured since he was on a budget... That is a good recommendation though for everyone reading this thread.
Click to expand...
No, I may do that...if i can sneak out and get it under the radar, I will, just can't be ordering parts much now..."Another package from Z1, what did you buy this time?":eek:

Except I already have a fresh quart of 15w. Hmmm...:)

Thanks to all of you guys, very helpful info.

I'll see you in a couple weeks Dan! Maybe you too Ed?
 
Billy Ricks said:
Hack saw will work fine or an angle grinder if you have access to one. Just try to cut it in a way that the end of the coil is flat relative to the surface it contacts. Take a file to the end of the coil if you have to. If you're able to change the fork oil that will help too.
Click to expand...
I cut from the bottom of the spring correct? (I hope that ain't as stupid as it sounds to me right now...)

Heres my basic plan- Take four inches of the springs, replace with 5" pvc spacer. Replace with 15w oil (for starters, may move up to 20 if I need to)
Stock fork caps back on, no air. Sound like it will work? should be able to do all of that for the price of the pvc.
 
If it's a single rate spring the coils will all be the same so it won't matter which end you cut.
 
I cut from the top. If the coils are progressively wound, cut the end which has the closer spaced coils. 4" would be a good place to start. Cut your spacer so it's flush with the top of the fork before installing the cap. PVC is cheap, you could always change things up as need be.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top