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i am changing my fork oil because my forks are spongy. should i bring the fork weight up? to make them alittle stiffer. becuase even back when they were new they were not the best performing shocks
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ridemoto4life said:i am changing my fork oil because my forks are spongy. should i bring the fork weight up? to make them alittle stiffer. becuase even back when they were new they were not the best performing shocks
Billy Ricks said:Just changing the oil alone will make a big difference. Since you've probably got bushings that have worn 15 weight will slow the spring action down some. I'd see how much sag I've got too. That's the difference between the fork fully extended with the front wheel off the ground, then sitting on the ground with your weight in the seat. Measure how much of the upper tube is showing below the triple clamp. The difference in the two measurements is how much sag you have.
Depending on how you ride you can shoot for 1"-1 1/4" of sag for a firm, sporty ride good for hard backroad riding. Go with about 1 1/2"-1 3/4" of sag for a softer ride. Add pieces of PVC pipe with close to the same outer diameter as the inner diameter of the fork tube. How long will depend on how much sag you had. Use a fender washer on top of the fork spring and your piece of pvc on top of that, under the fork cap. Using the spring preload in the back try to get the rear set up close to the front as far as sag.
You don't want to overdamp. Too heavy of an oil or to much damping will not let the spring react as quickly as it should to soak up the road. What you want is controlled spring action. As long as the suspension settles down quickly and is ready for the next bump and doesn't pogo after the suspension is upset the damping is good. Pogoing means you're underdamped. But you still want to have the spring do its quickly so you don't want to overdamp. Get the sag set up first, then decide what needs to be done damping-wise. Go easy after suspension changes and get used to how the bike behaves.