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Fork Seals

  • Thread starter Thread starter climber_dhl
  • Start date Start date
C

climber_dhl

Guest
Hello again,
I have another question for you guys. My forks are leaking pretty heavily now, so I have finally decided to replace my fork seals. I have the guide form Bike Cliff's site for the GS1000 ( I have a GS850GT (1980)), and I noticed that the guide says to remove the damper assembly from the bottom to check it and clean it. This bike cost me $300 and I have put in about $800 in repairs to get it usable for a commuter bike to school and just fun rides here and there. I was wondering if I could just replace the top oil and dust seals and put in a new oil ring and not remove the damper assembly. I don't really have access to someone who could weld a 19mm bolt onto a rebar T-bar and was wondering if removing the damper assembly was vital or neccesary or not. Thanks for all your help.

climber_dhl
 
climber_dhl said:
Hello again,
I have another question for you guys. My forks are leaking pretty heavily now, so I have finally decided to replace my fork seals. I have the guide form Bike Cliff's site for the GS1000 ( I have a GS850GT (1980)), and I noticed that the guide says to remove the damper assembly from the bottom to check it and clean it. This bike cost me $300 and I have put in about $800 in repairs to get it usable for a commuter bike to school and just fun rides here and there. I was wondering if I could just replace the top oil and dust seals and put in a new oil ring and not remove the damper assembly. I don't really have access to someone who could weld a 19mm bolt onto a rebar T-bar and was wondering if removing the damper assembly was vital or neccesary or not. Thanks for all your help.

climber_dhl
Click to expand...

The complete strip is basically to enable you to inspect all the parts for wear and to get all the old oil and maybe any dirt out of the assembly.
You can leave those in and just wash out the old oil properly or you could use the back end of a spark plug socket by just sticking the bar in from the inside of the socket to get the damper out.
Basically if you can remove the oil seal with the inner tube still installed and not damage or mark the surface you should be OK.
Just watch for any rust spots on the upper part of the inners when sliding the new oils seals down. You would be sitting with a leak again if you damage the oils seal lip on those.
Good luck.
 
I have found if very difficult to remove the seals without disassembling the tubes. Also, there is no need to weld anything. I used a section of all-thread rod that is two feet long and placed four nuts on it, two at each end. I used 5/8" rod for another bike, the nuts take a 15/16" wrench, which is 24mm. If you use 1/2" rod, the 3/4" wrench equivalent is right close to 19mm. Just place the new tool down the fork tube, seat it in the damper rod, use a wrench on the top nuts and unscrew, but you also need to secure the bolt in the bottom of the fork with an Allen wrench.

IMG_2027.jpg


Place the nuts a little farther up on one end, it helps center the tool in the damper rod.
IMG_2029.jpg
 
Removing the damper assembly is necessary because you need to pry the old seal out. I have one of those rebar tools, but don't use it. An impact driver will zip that bottom bolt right out. Be careful when prying the seal out: don't gouge the fork lower.
 
If you have a spark plug socket with a hex on the bottom, the hex is the right side to fit inside the damper rod. Just use a long extension and stick it into the socket backwards so the hex protrudes out the bottom.
 
Last edited:
Don-lo said:
Removing the damper assembly is necessary because you need to pry the old seal out. I have one of those rebar tools, but don't use it. An impact driver will zip that bottom bolt right out. Be careful when prying the seal out: don't gouge the fork lower.
Click to expand...
An impact driver is, indeed, a wonderful tool ... if you have access to one. :-k

So far, I have neither an air- or electric-powered impact driver, only a hammer-driven one, and that does not do the trick. Hence the need for the long tool. :o


Besides, $5 in parts beat the price of a powered impact tool. :D

.
 
Back when I rebuilt my 700 forks I didn't use anything to hold the damper rods. I simply removed the bolts from the bottom of the fork and out everything came. Same when I put it back together. May not work for everyone, but in my case it did.
 
fork seals

fork seals

Guys ,
I had access to a torch when I had to do my old GS850s and tooka 3/4 bolt and nut welded them together and used long 1/2" drive and a pull handle opposite ratchet and allen bit....but I have to admit the last seals I put in I had an 1/2 air tool...that made it easier....
I do think its best to take them completely apart to clean and inspect....it wouldn't hurt to measure the springs for proper length....and not to be forward the OEM seals have an extra "wiper" built into them most aftermarket ones don't have. ON some of the GS models they have a large circlip that isn't available anymore...however I did find that when doing a VS1400 they use a spring style clip that will substitute for the clip.
keep that seal from moving as you ride.....
Rod
 
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