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Fork seals

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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i just ordered fork seals from dennis kirk, do i NEED any special tools to install the seals i seen they had fork seal tools??? or do they just pop in, maybe PVC?
 
on my 79 gs 1000l i needed a tool to hold the inside allen bolt on the dampening rod...i fabricated my own by welding a 18mm bolt to the end of a 3 or 4 footlong rod..the bolt will just turn on the inside if you dont...an impact wrench might turn it from thee out side but then it also may stirp it.
 
on my 79 gs 1000l i needed a tool to hold the inside allen bolt on the dampening rod...i fabricated my own by welding a 18mm bolt to the end of a 3 or 4 footlong rod..the bolt will just turn on the inside if you dont...an impact wrench might turn it from thee out side but then it also may stirp it.
 
To set the seals try using 1.5" diameter ABS or PVC pipe, 2-3ft in length. I changed the seals on my 82 1100E last week and the pipe worked as well as any driver would have. $55 cheaper to boot. All thanks to those who responded to my post two weeks ago on the same topic (thanks again).

Are you going to be changing your bushings along with your seals? If so, where did you get the bushings?
 
I removed the allen head bolts in the bottom of the forks before I removed the forks from the bike (82 GS1100GK). They are 10mm on my bike, used air. Couldn't get the cap bolts at the top of the forks since I have air assist forks. Couldn't get a wrench on the air valve mounts good enough for the leverage or shock I would need to brake them loose. So had to put my forks into a vise after they were removed and did mar my forks a little but not where it will show. Tried to cusion the vise but couldn't get a good enough grip. If you have regular cap bolts without air forks you shouldn't have any trouble breaking them loose on the bike. As far as the seals themselves, I could push them flush with the surface with my thumbs. Then use the old seals to drive them into place. (I put a light coat of grease around the outside of the seal). To get the allen bolt torqued back into the lower fork I put two nuts on a bolt and used a long extension to reach down in. The nuts fit a 1 inch wrench, don't know what the thread size was (doesn't matter). It's not an exact fit but the torque is only 18 lbs. so it's not like you're going to chew everything up. (use thread lock) I also lightly coated the inner lips of the seals and dust caps with grease before reassembling the fork halves. You probably should've got new dust caps but if you didn't you might be okay, just didn't want to loose another set of seals. I didn't know about the teflon bands until mine were apart so the old ones are still in there. Hope they are good. My 1100 only has about 9k on it, just that like most of the GSs it sat for many years. More likely to get a seal dried out too long, than a teflon band worn out.
 
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