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fried headlight,neutral indicator and second coil

  • Thread starter Thread starter RULONG
  • Start date Start date
R

RULONG

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Ok so I got on the bike at work and nothing, no head light, indicator lights, flashers, horn or starter, bump started it but no light and the smell of melting plastic and it died as soon as I put it in neutral.

Charged up the battery, its still dead as a dodo.

Back of a truck get it home, new fuse blew straight away, seat off, tank off, looked for a short. Nothing I could see but as its all open I change the indicators for LED's having previously put in a new flasher unit for them so they match the rear LED break light, put it together so its out of the way for littl'ens birthday party and it turns over now with after firing giving my wife a heart attack ( to be fair it sounded like a gun shot to me ). Must have been a short in the indicators somewhere, maybe, I guess. But don't really believe it.

So anyway its running but only on one cylinder, the second coil tests bad with the multi-meter so I ordered a new head light and bulb based on best guess from amazon and a coil from ebay.

The coil is the one I'm unsure about, that and if I'm missing a whole lot on the cause. Is it possible the satator blew and took everything running at the time of ignition and I didn't know till I stopped the bike and tried to start it again, I might have missed the neutral light and head light (yes officer the lights were working when I left home lol) but I'm sure I would have noticed half the coils not running from experience so that doesn't seem likely.

Anyone got any advice, preferably with clear photos and big "check this wire here" arrows before I go back out and try to find things I know little about, thanks for anything that'll help.

p.s I have also noticed when I've been riding for awhile the idle rises for more than just warming the machine up would account for if that's any clue.

Rulong

Its an 82 GS 450 T

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I would stop changing parts until you have identified why you burned a wire. You should never burn a wire if everything is fused .
 
That I think was when the fuse blew as the plastic capsule was a bit melted and I couldn't find anything else to account for the smell so I swapped that out for a new blade fuse holder, so thankyou it could well have been that itself shorting out I'll have to look at the old piece wire it was on and see.
 
I think the short was in one of the indicators as it's got 0 not infinite resistance although that kept changing as i moved it around making me think it was an intermittent connection that finally made a long enough connection to pop the fuse.

Not sure that would kill the coil and lights though.

And my second problem turned up, the coil I ordered thats ment to be for GS 125 UPTO 450 is only labeled ELDAD PART# CH-WX2 GS-125 and I don't know if this would be usable even for only a year or if its going to blow as soon as I connect power?
 
One thing that jumps out at me about this thread. Not one voltage reading. If you're blowing bulbs and burning coils I'd bet that your charging system is not working correctly.
 
I was so hoping you weren't going to say that but i've been reading up on the stator and r/r. Just wishful thinking that it was just an old coil and a short.

But don't I need the bike running on both cylinders to chack that?
 
As long as you can get the bike up and running to about 5K rpms in neutral, you should be able to test things. If you coil is KNOWN to be bad then I'd replace it first.
 
The stator seems good but without the second coil check the r/r seems a mote point as its only going to give a fraction of the real voltage isn't it?
 
So were back to my coil question can I use a GS125 coil atleast for a while anyway to test and get me to work for a week or so till I can find one for the 450 or is it just a case of send it back and put up with not being able to work till I can get the correct one?
 
The coil didn't work so either it wasn't up to the job or there is no juice to it I'm more likely to think there's something else wrong because that's the way my luck goes.
 
Have you considered actually pulling out a meter and measuring what voltages you have where?
 
Thats how i knew the coil was bad but I get a fluctuating voltage on the coil inputs from the harness so I think there good as they both do it at about the same voltage (10v~), the battery is 12.84, drops to 12.75 on turn on and drops to 11.3 on crank, didn't check with it running as its a pitch to keep running on one cylinder.

Stator has constant resistance and no connection to the case thats about all I can check till I get it running on two cylinders oh and a new 9v battery as I left the meter on yesterday morning when I took all these reading.

No one asked so I never thought to mention them sorry.
 
With all that got "fried" I wouldn't even try to start the bike unless you disconnect the R/R from the system. The engine will run fine off the battery alone as long as it's charged. That way you can verify stator output once you get it running again. As for the coil, most any 3 ohm coil will work. My main concern is if the igniter survived. I'm thinking that you may have over voltaged the system because of a wiring issue or a bad R/R. Go through the entire harness and check for melted connectors. I'd say to verify the fuses but you only have one.
 
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The harness seems ok, no melted or rubbed through wires or connectors, I couldn't find anything but the melted fuse case and that short in the indicator, and when I have run it no smell, but that gs125 coil wasn't producing a spark so I sent it back and ordered one from dime city.

If that gs125 one should have worked then something is wrong from the igniter like you say, I'll have to check that next, the manual had something about checking it I'll look it up tonight and the r/r, I remember taking measurements on it yesterday when I did the stator but don't remember the figures I got and I'm not sure I did it right.
 
The R/R didn't pass the first test let alone second so I've ordered a new one, I couldn't figure out how to test the Igniter from the manual without stripping half the bike down and you may have noticed that I'm not great at this and not sure I could put it back together again (manual or no dyslexia makes this twice as hard). So any suggestion on what I'm not understanding from the manual about testing the igniter?

P.S Thanks for putting up with me I know its not easy.
 
"So any suggestion on what I'm not understanding from the manual about testing the igniter?"

Rulong, read the "Igniter Unit Test" 3 or even 4 times untill you understand it. Then do it step by step
 
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