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Fried Stator? Stator Interchangeability?

Gregory

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
I really screwed up welding on my 82gs1100e (fauxskunk) yesterday without the battery and igniter disconnected.... Yes I knew better but got in a hurry thinking with the ground right by it blah blah blah...

Anyway, the battery lost juice and when I charged it back up I did the quick test. The increase and decrease in voltage happens slowly and seems to be way too low.

Bike off - 12.95
Bike on - 12.35 then keeps ticking down lower 1 volt at a time.
Idle - 12.52 then ticks up one volt at a time slowly
2500 - 12.69 then ticks up one volt at a time slowly
5000 - 12.74 then ticks up one volt at a time slowly
OFF - 12.80 and ticks slowly up to 12.90


If I have fried the Stator, I wonder about the interchangeability with a GS1000 stator (have an extra one at friends house)?

I looked at the parts fisch and saw that the stators have two different part numbers but thought I would double check with the guru's here before spending the bucks.

gs1000 - 31301-49010
gs1100 - 31401-49301
 
I really screwed up welding on my 82gs1100e (fauxskunk) yesterday without the battery and igniter disconnected.... Yes I knew better but got in a hurry thinking with the ground right by it blah blah blah...

Anyway, the battery lost juice and when I charged it back up I did the quick test. The increase and decrease in voltage happens slowly and seems to be way too low.

Bike off - 12.95
Bike on - 12.35 then keeps ticking down lower 1 volt at a time.
Idle - 12.52 then ticks up one volt at a time slowly
2500 - 12.69 then ticks up one volt at a time slowly
5000 - 12.74 then ticks up one volt at a time slowly
OFF - 12.80 and ticks slowly up to 12.90


If I have fried the Stator, I wonder about the interchangeability with a GS1000 stator (have an extra one at friends house)?

I looked at the parts fisch and saw that the stators have two different part numbers but thought I would double check with the guru's here before spending the bucks.

gs1000 - 31301-49010
gs1100 - 31401-49301

You more than likely blew the R/R, unless you were really creative it would have been hard to blow the stator.
 
You more than likely blew the R/R, unless you were really creative it would have been hard to blow the stator.

I guess that is good news then.?.?

Do you know off the top of your head whether the RR is interchangeable with one off of a gs1000? I have an extra one of those out there somewhere too.
 
Thank you Pos you were right !

I borrowed the RR of my friends 1100 and it was charging much better. I also learned that the gs1000 RR does not interchange at all.

Now for the big question which I am sure has bee covered a hundred times on here...what to replace mine with? I saw some new ones on ebay for $54.
 
Compufire 55402. I got mine off Amazon for 162 bucks, free shipping.
 
Last edited:
Skip that $25 eBay stuff and cough up $70 or so for a SH-775- your stator will thank you.
 
I wouldn't want to try one of those, especially since you can get a new series type from a Polaris for only a little more. Ray
 
If money is an issue, the sh-775 is the recommended runner up. But I hear it's big.

Ok, thanks all, I see I have some reading to do later today when I get home.

I don't know if large size will be an issue since I was actually considering mounting it outside of the side plates to keep it cooler. (need feedback about that too)

There is a bracket on this frame for a helmet lock that is not being used.

I very much appreciate everyone's help.
 
Gregory,

Are you running pods or the stock airbox? I am running pods, so I have lots of room in the under seat area, etc.

For my 1100EZ, I decided to use the original R/R mounting holes on the side plate, but I mounted it on the back side of the plate, upside down so that I wouldn't have to trim connector shells or anything (plus, the side plate is already rubber mounted. I saved a couple of the rubber weather boots from my old OEM wiring harness to place over each of the connections to help keep water off of them. I mounted the seat and clearances were good.

Also, I fabbed a little bracket to fit inside the frame between the rear tank mount gussets. Took a few measurements and volia! It fit nicely, but knew I would need some rubber bushings to isolate vibrations. I discovered it would fit on the back side of the electrics mounting plate and decided to mount there instead of under the tank.

Backside of electrics mounting plate:

Voltageregulatorrelocation_zps82bff69f.jpg


Under tank mount:

Voltageregulatorrelocation2_zps3021a62d.jpg


Voltageregulatorrelocation3_zpsa5a807bd.jpg


Hope these are helpful!!
 
Last edited:
Gregory,

Are you running pods or the stock airbox? I am running pods, so I have lots of room in the under seat area, etc.

For my 1100EZ, I decided to use the original R/R mounting holes on the side plate, but I mounted it on the back side of the plate, upside down so that I wouldn't have to trim connector shells or anything (plus, the side plate is already rubber mounted. I saved a couple of the rubber weather boots from my old OEM wiring harness to place over each of the connections to help keep water off of them. I mounted the seat and clearances were good.

Also, I fabbed a little bracket to fit inside the frame between the rear tank mount gussets. Took a few measurements and volia! It fit nicely, but knew I would need some rubber bushings to isolate vibrations. I discovered it would fit on the back side of the electrics mounting plate and decided to mount there instead of under the tank.

Backside of electrics mounting plate:

Voltageregulatorrelocation_zps82bff69f.jpg


Under tank mount:

Voltageregulatorrelocation2_zps3021a62d.jpg


Voltageregulatorrelocation3_zpsa5a807bd.jpg


Hope these are helpful!!

Right now it is the stock air box. I had thought the units went bad from heat so considered mounting it on the outside of the sideplates may help with ventilation.

Another thing that is surprising is that in reading that thread it is suggested to mount anti vibration grommets...but my stock location did not have any rubber grommets. The panel is shaky also.

If I find a sh775 it appears I will have to cut off my factory 4 pin plug and make some DIY connectors.
 
Thanks Cassius. I have been googling to locate the sh775 at the best price. I even ran across a place that was selling the connectors but they were $18...so it is getting up around a hundred dollars ..eek

I am glad I have another bike to ride and a battery charger as well because I may not pull the trigger on this yet.
 
$62.00 @ polarisparts123.com

$61.55 @ polarispartspitstop.com

Those prices don't include shipping.
 
4014291 is the SH-775 unit. Hooray for Yamaha to have discovered it AND used it! Free shipping means that's a deal!
 
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