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front brake light switch issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter gk45011
  • Start date Start date
G

gk45011

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Just bought a 83 GS1100ES. Rear brake light switch works fine. The front brake light switch is not working. Where do I start to diagnose this issue?

Help? and thanks in advance,
Gary King
 
Start at the switch assembly under the front brake lever. It can be dissembled cleaned and dielectric grease applied, or it can be thrown away and replaced with a Banjo bolt pressure switch on the master cylinder. Personally I opted for the pressure switch, mine was worn too much to work reliably.
 
Hi,

There's a front brake light switch repair guide on my little website. Basically just take it apart (carefully), clean it up, reassemble properly.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
They are the same as the clutch safety switch on many many models. Cheap to replace the entire assembly...like 10 or 12 bucks cheap.

Yours probably needs adjusted.

Loosen the two screws in the black cap and use a fine tip screw driver to slide the thin brown switch board toward the end of the bars. Snug the screwws once you get a response. If the brake stays lit once your snugged up, then reloosen and tinker till you find its "sweet spot".
 
Last edited:
OldVet66 said:
Start at the switch assembly under the front brake lever. It can be dissembled cleaned and dielectric grease applied, or it can be thrown away and replaced with a Banjo bolt pressure switch on the master cylinder. Personally I opted for the pressure switch, mine was worn too much to work reliably.
Click to expand...

Do tell, where does one find that type of banjo bolt?
 
Just reiterating but can't help it.
the switches are a pain to repair ! I just did it yesterday
check continuity by getting to the ends where they connect inside headlight
see chuck hahns post to try first and for it's Important content..ie: if you need to resolder wires, the adjustable feature need survive...
download pdf written by Mr Gravity Master from Bike Cliff's site here:
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/front_brake_switch_repair.pdf

if you want to do it on the bike without removing Master cylinder,
Place a white sheet on the ground to catch parts! Warning the little spring and especially copper contact can fly quite a ways... so best to take apart facing down.
Now, to reassemble, you might find it easier to loosen the handlebar clamp of the Master cylinder and turn the assembly a bit.

Now, hunt up the banjo switch, because you will want it next time !
 
heres another way to catch the parts.

Tape a sandwich baggies on each siide of the switch..like to the swich box housing or whatever..as long as the switch itself is inside the bag. Now poke the screw driver thru the bag to take out the screws, cap, and the pin thing that contains the U shaped contact.

To hold it into the handle when reassembling, dab a spot of grease on the tip and stick it up inti the recess..it will stick there and not free fall back to the floor!!
 
Z1 should have a banjo bolt pressure switch, and if it's not listed call them and they will cheerfully help. They were about the same price as a replacement plastic fiddly one when I had to replace mine due to the brittle plastic ears broke where the screws go through. Some have said that they don't like the lack of adjustability with the pressure switches, as in lighting the brake light with slight pressure but not actually braking. Yes a trade off, but you can just adjust the rear switch to do that if you want.
 
bridge out the 2 wires in the loom in the headlight bucket before attempting to strip the switch, this will prove that the wiring to the brake light from the front switch is working correctly
 
switch

switch

Thanks everyone. I will look into whether it is kicking power through the switch in the headlight and the lever. The pressure switch sounds like it may be the way to go. Hopefully bleeding the brakes back out won't be a PITA after adding the pressure switch. I have heard horror stories about bleeding the front with the anti dive etc.

Gary
 
Only because it's being talked about now, if I go to slimmed down handlebar controls with universal brake levers, will I need to go to a banjo switch or will I be able to use an electrical switch?
 
Hakamisu said:
Only because it's being talked about now, if I go to slimmed down handlebar controls with universal brake levers, will I need to go to a banjo switch or will I be able to use an electrical switch?
Click to expand...

depends if the universal brake lever comes with an electrical switch or not.....
 
Agemax said:
depends if the universal brake lever comes with an electrical switch or not.....
Click to expand...

Is there a better place to find ones that do. I was hoping to replace both my clutch and brake levers with just a plane lever and built in electrical switch, but I haven't had much luck.
 
Hakamisu said:
Is there a better place to find ones that do. I was hoping to replace both my clutch and brake levers with just a plane lever and built in electrical switch, but I haven't had much luck.
Click to expand...

what is wrong with the stock ones? they will still work with narrower handlebars....:confused:
 
Brake light switch

Brake light switch

I think I read in a thread on here that if you bypass your clutch safety switch the parts from the lever can then be used on the brake side. My brake side appears to be faulty:( but my clutch side is as it should be:).
Can anyone give the official yes or no on this?:confused:

Thanks,
Gary
 
For what it's worth, I learned the hard way not to try opening up the switch assembly in a grassy area, but I was able to carefully fabricate replacements for the lost parts with some thin copper sheet and the trimmed down spring from a ball point pen.

It was a pain (especially to reassemble before I figured out how to add tiny retaining tabs to my tiny copper "U") but it was free and has served for multiple years since.
 
Roostabunny said:
For what it's worth, I learned the hard way not to try opening up the switch assembly in a grassy area, but I was able to carefully fabricate replacements for the lost parts with some thin copper sheet and the trimmed down spring from a ball point pen.

It was a pain (especially to reassemble before I figured out how to add tiny retaining tabs to my tiny copper "U") but it was free and has served for multiple years since.
Click to expand...

Copy the exploding parts warning. I have never opened up either of the lever controls. If it gets attempted I wil have to see if Steve will oversee while he is over.

Gary
 
I always figure it's good practice to act as those everything is going to explode in some manner that will make it impossible to put together. And they always include one part that does one of many things, it either does not actually fit into the thing you took apart so is impossible to get back in, serves no purpose other than making reassembly nearly impossible or is completely invisible until everything is reassembled and reinstalled then it mysteriously appears in your right hand out of nowhere, this last one is usually the most crucial part to the whole mechanism but unfathomably the easiest to look over.

just had two GSXR brake light switches not work for me when I installed the master cylinder on the EFE. ONe from a '89 GSXR110, one from a '98 GSXR750, both of which I know for certain worked the last time I laid eyes on them, wondering if there is some sort of voltage difference used at the switchgear between these years.
 
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