Look at the bore of that master before you rebuild it..look for any ptiing or scarring in there of any kind..if it looks sketchy it probably is and will fail you right off the jump.
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Buy can of denatured alcohol. Use this to clean with as it dissolves the crud, evaporates, and does not contain water. Keep water away from the MC as it will cause rust.
Clean the bore with a 12 gauge brass bore brush. it also will clean the entrance where the c clip goes really well. The brass is soft will not scratch it.
Replace the bowl o ring if you have a removable one, otherwise clean the sight glass well and the threads for the cap. I run a tap carefully through to clean them.
When you assemble use new parts, don't reuse anything.
Use brake fluid to reassemble and lube everything. I do this over a metal paint tray because it's messy.
WEAR EYE PROTECTION. Blasting air or working with the spring will launch brake fluid which is really bad for your eyes.
Make sure you assemble it all correctly or it won't pump up.
Clean the brake switch and replace if worn.
When you go to prime it use a brake bolt with a series of washers to seal off the end. You should be able to get a rock hard lever on the bench after a few works of the lever. If not, or if it leaks past the boot, you did something wrong and have to go back in.
If all these steps seems like a lot of trouble, remember what this part does.
Clean the bore with a 12 gauge brass bore brush. it also will clean the entrance where the c clip goes really well. The brass is soft will not scratch it.
Replace the bowl o ring if you have a removable one, otherwise clean the sight glass well and the threads for the cap. I run a tap carefully through to clean them.
When you assemble use new parts, don't reuse anything.
Use brake fluid to reassemble and lube everything. I do this over a metal paint tray because it's messy.
WEAR EYE PROTECTION. Blasting air or working with the spring will launch brake fluid which is really bad for your eyes.
Make sure you assemble it all correctly or it won't pump up.
Clean the brake switch and replace if worn.
When you go to prime it use a brake bolt with a series of washers to seal off the end. You should be able to get a rock hard lever on the bench after a few works of the lever. If not, or if it leaks past the boot, you did something wrong and have to go back in.
If all these steps seems like a lot of trouble, remember what this part does.
G
gs1000emt
Guest
Well the master main body is pretty cruddy still inside. Cant find a brass bore brush anywhere. Still cannot get that second hole clear either. Bout to give up. Where can I buy another master cylinder body?
