Front Sprocket Removal

[81GS750]

This thing is really starting to get to me. As far as I know the sprocket has never been removed. I have tried using a 24" breaker bar, kroil, PB Blaster, impact gun, and heat. This last try, I sprayed everything with PB Blaster and tapped the nut with a hammer every day for a week. Today I applied heat from a propane gas torch to the nut until I began to see a liquid ooze from between the nut and threads on the output shaft, then I used the impact gun. It still won't budge!!!!

My old compressor doesn't have the CFM output to properly run the impact gun anymore, so I rigged up a regulator to one of my SCBA tanks, (2216 psi). That will run the gun for about 3-5 mins.

My question is this, Is the sprocket nut left or right hand threaded? I've been turning to the left with no luck and my air supply is limited, so I'd hate to waste my last tank trying to go the wrong way!!

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[Joe Nardy]

You don't specify which bike you are referring to but I know that the front sprocket nut on an '83 GS1100E is a standard right-hand thread. I have never heard of a GS with a left-hand thread on this nut.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[TheCafeKid]

No it's right handed like every other thread. It's just a PITA sometimes. Did you remover the chain already? If so that was a bit of an error as you could have used it along with applying the read brake to keep the CS from trying to turn. Another idea would be to wrap the chain around the front sprocket till it can no longer move because of the cases/frame (might use something behind the chain and against the cases like some wood or something to keep from damaging them) and that will keep it from moving. Other than that it's all about pure leverage, or a darn powerful impact gun.

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

Alternate heat and cold to draw any lubricant into the threads.
Contrary to poular opinion metal does not absorb oil.

Well cast iron does to a degree but not what you are working on.
Cycle cold hot cold hot and apply the fluid when it is hot .

And do not overheat the shaft it will ruin the seal.

Having a friend put the bike in gear and stand ont eh rear brake may help as well. I saw a guy use an impact wrench on one of these nuts and he had to resort to using a nut breaker. He was a suzuki factory trained mechanic to boot.

 

[81GS750]

Joe, Sorry I failed to specify what bike I was talking about. It's the 1981 GS750E that I'm working on.

Cafe Kid, I took the chain off when I did the GSXR conversion. I do have the old chain wrapped around the sprocket and clamped in place with a pair of vise-grips. It's very secure.

Jeep, I'll continue the heat treatment.

I thought I had been turning the correct direction, but it's nice to get confirmation.

With luck I won't need to use a nut breaker. Thanks for the input!

 

[cowboyup3371]

Yea, what everyone else said plus make sure you have it in gear and someone standing on the rear brake lever. It will take some pressure but I got mine off with that and a breaker bar.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Yea, what everyone else said plus make sure you have it in gear and someone standing on the rear brake lever. It will take some pressure but I got mine off with that and a breaker bar.

The chain is no longer tied to the rear sprocket.

 

[cowboyup3371]

The chain is no longer tied to the rear sprocket.

Ooops, sorry I missed that part. Thanks.

 

[81GS750]

Yeah, the rear brake thing is kinda out of the question lol. I still have to fabricate a brake stay for the GSXR caliper, so the rear brakes aren't hooked up. I didn't work on it anymore today since the first post, installed a new travelcade seat cover on the CB750C instead. I'll keep trying tomorrow.

 

[chuckycheese]

Leverage

Leverage

I'd try putting a pipe on the breaker bar to extend its length a little bit. Additional leverage, even a small amount, can often make a huge amount of difference.:-s

 

[koolaid_kid]

I was wondering - is the sprocket rotating at all? That is the purpose of using the back brake. If it is not turning then you have emulated the rear brake and you need to get out the 1" breaker bar, the proper socket, and a 20 foot cheater pipe.