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frozen exhaust bolts

  • Thread starter Thread starter drewandkellie
  • Start date Start date
I'm resurrecting the dead here, but this is a good thread. One of the joys of my new to me '82 is 4 of the 8 exhaust bolts are broken... grrrr.. each one has 1/4 - 3/4" protruding, and the PO had added nuts to them (two nuts welded together) then had short bolts turning into this concoction. I guess it works, but its too much of a cobble-job for me so tomorrow i go buy some PB blaster and a plumbers torch. :eek:

Hope it works. I have time.. I'll let it soak for several days and whack them daily.
 
Try to turn them forward and back. Once they crack loose, don't force anything. Continue to work them back and forth, it's just a matter of time.
 
tfb said:
I've changed all my bikes from bolts to studs, to avoid seizure problems, but also because the aluminium threads in the head are prone to stripping after decades of PO's.

I second the suggestion about using brass nuts on the studs, if the latter are plain steel. Rust-induced seizure (due to the extreme heat and exposure to the weather) isn't a problem.

If you use stainless studs, then use stainless nuts -- no metallurgical reaction is going to happen.
Click to expand...
Stainless studs eh? never thought of that. I wonder if my local fastner place sells studs of different dimensions. high grade steel or ss. I have allen head stainless bolts in mine now and even though i used anti seize i dont trust them. Gotta put that on my to-do list.:cool:
 
Hank.SD said:
I'm resurrecting the dead here, but this is a good thread. One of the joys of my new to me '82 is 4 of the 8 exhaust bolts are broken... grrrr.. each one has 1/4 - 3/4" protruding, and the PO had added nuts to them (two nuts welded together) then had short bolts turning into this concoction. I guess it works, but its too much of a cobble-job for me so tomorrow i go buy some PB blaster and a plumbers torch. :eek:

Hope it works. I have time.. I'll let it soak for several days and whack them daily.
Click to expand...


I just spent $80 at a local machine shop having them fix one that the PO had broken off, drilled out at an angle and then broken off an 'easy-out' in. Now it's got a heli coil in it as much as I hate them but at least it's going to work.
 
I know its a bit late for this advice but here goes anyway. At the first sign of seizure, stop. A broke bolt or stud will always stay broken from that point. But if you stop and soak for atleast an over night stay, THEN take a a hammer and long punch and tap the bolt head for a minute or so and resoak, youll find 99% will come out without any issues. When reinstalling go with a stainless bolt or stub.Even though you will still have some reaction between these dis-similar metals, it wont be as bad as with Mild steel and aluminum. And a high grade copper anti-seize with every bolt or stud installed. I try to stay away from heat with aluminum due the fact it will heat fast, but also transfer that heat to the bolt, swelling it as well. The soaking and tapping method has served me well.
 
Hi Drew it's Cris Hile. Glad to hear you got your problem solved. Just think- If you didn't have any of these toys you wouldn't have any problems! Thanks again for the GS750. I'll try to get pictures to you when it's done...
 
Anyone know off hand what the size and pitch of these bolts (GS1100E) is? I forgot to bring one to work today.
 
Nessism said:
Try to turn them forward and back. Once they crack loose, don't force anything. Continue to work them back and forth, it's just a matter of time.
Click to expand...

Sound advice. Patience is the key.

Once you've broken a few (many years ago now) you realise that 'wiggling' them out slowly is a lot quicker than removing the broken tips.
 
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