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Frozen intake boot bolts...

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS2GO
  • Start date Start date
G

GS2GO

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Any tips on how to remove stuck intake boot bolts? I've read Bikecliff's page on Intake Boot replacement, and tried the impact tool. All I'm accomplishing is chewing up the phillips head. I thought I saw a thread on the subject, but can't find it in an hour of searching. Anyone tried heat? The boots themselves are not bad, and I don't want to mess them up... or bust a bolt.
 
You can always either cut a notch in the head or use a chisel to make the head suitable for a straight bit in the impact driver.
 
They are not Philips head screws, they are JIS screw heads, and that is why your Philips screwdriver is not helping you out much...

as mentioned, if you don't have the right one, cut a slot and use a flat blade screwdriver

.
 
Take a phillips screwdriver and file off just a bit of the tip. It will then simulate the JIS screwdriver and fit properly in your JIS screws.
 
I used a pair of needle nose vice-grips, there was enough room to just grab the screw head and kind of "worried" one out. After that, you can spin the boot counter-clock-wise to loosen the other screw. :)
 
Impact drivers work if you hold them in tightly and get a good solid hit. Otherwise they tear up the screw head. The boots are not in the best place to properly use an impact driver but will come loose with a good solid hit. Changing the screws for Allen head screws are recommended once you get them off.
 
I usually just drill the heads off and use a pair of Vice Grips if they get that bad. The slot and slotted impact driver tip works fine too. Use Anti-sieze with your new bolts, so the next guy doesn't have the same problem.
 
Then it's even more important! The next guy will be him!
Too bad he didn't do it last time!
 
I have never had any problems removing those screws with my impact driver and the #3 Phillips bit that comes with it.
icon_shrug.gif


Keep in mind that the head of most drivers is removable, and you can use 3/8" socket extensions to move the handle back to where you can get a good swing at it with a hammer. :D

.
 
I just got back from the garage to report success on all eight bolts without any damage.

I ended up cutting a notch in the four upper bolts with a Dremel tool fitted with a small abrasive disk, modified a 3/8" drive Torque bit to make a flat blade, and fit it to a small air impact wrench. A few short bursts on low air pressure did the trick. I tapped the boot housing counterclockwise as recommended, and the bottom bolts came out easily with a hand philips (JIS) screwdriver.

I had already ordered the o-rings and stainless bolts from cycleorings so I'm good to go.

It looks like these boots had been off at some point, since there was black sealant under all of them. Makes me wonder what else I might find in the process of bringing the beast back to life.

Thanks for all the replies.
 
Electric Impact Driver OK?

Electric Impact Driver OK?

All,

I'm trying to get these same boot screws off of the '83 GS650GL I'm restoring.

I have a hand tool (manual) impact driver, but there is no where near enough room to get the tool in line with the screws and hit it with a hammer.

So, can I use a powered impact driver, or will I just bugger up the screw heads too badly by trying a power tool?

I've got a DeWalt 20V cordless impact driver that I can try. I thought I'd take one of the phillips bits, file down the tip a bit to get a good fit and give it a try.

Good idea, or will I just mess up the screws?

***
 
It could work, or it might booger up the screws. On a 650 it's tight, but with several socket extensions you can get the impact on it from the rear wheel area where there's room to swing the hammer. Might have to take the inner fender off or something. I know it's possible, done it on a few 650s.
 
Why not just take a dremel, cut a straight slot, and then use a flat-bladed screwdriver or chisel and knock it loose that way. Once you have them out, replace them with allen heads
 
WingMan71...

Your DeWalt 20V cordless impact driver is the perfect tool for the job. All I had locally was my small air wrench and it worked fine, but your cordless drill has an adjustable collar around the chuck, I believe, that will permit you to dial in the impact setting progressively higher as needed, while maintaining perfect control of the drill, and keeping the bit blade on the bolt head. Also, because it is cordless, you won't have the clearance problems associated with the hand driver or the air hose getting in the way of a straight shot to the bolt. Using the cordless, I would even try the JIS bit before cutting the notch...with the control you will have, you may find it will work without damage to the head.:)
 
I must be missing something here,This should be a snap with a small genuine vicegrip- break top bolt free, remove,then rotate boot slightly to free opposite bolt or just use vicegrip end on and twist
 
Thanks for all the suggestions and experience guys.

I'll give it a shot this weekend and see if I can get them loose.

***
 
tom203 said:
I must be missing something here,This should be a snap with a small genuine vicegrip- break top bolt free, remove,then rotate boot slightly to free opposite bolt or just use vicegrip end on and twist
Click to expand...

This has always been my go-to as well. Take time to get a super firm grip on those screw head from the side & all goes well...
 
Well...

Here's what I tried:


  1. My DeWalt cordless Drill. Even at the highest torque setting on the collar (15) it wouldn't even budge the screws.
  2. My DeWalt cordless Impact Driver. It buggered up the first screw head really badly. Lots of power, but no torque control on it.
  3. My trusty old manual impact driver and hammer!
I had to remove the battery box from the bike on the left side to get enough room to get the impact driver in place and then lined up about a foot long piece of 2x2 wood to the back of the impact driver, through where the battery box was, and smacked that with a hammer. Got the two boots on the left side out this way. Had to cut slots in the head of the screws first since they were mangled.

So, I've got two collars off and two to go.

Looks like I'm gonna have to remove the entire air box from the bike so I can get room to swing a hammer on the right side of the bike.

The "get one screw loose and then rotate the intake boot to loosen the other screw" method is NOT working on my bike. The boot spins, but the second screw head doesn't. It just stays put.

Also tried to latch onto the screw heads with a Vice Grips. No-go. Can't get enough meat under the jaws to hold good enough.

These things are just nasty stuck and there's no room on a 650GL! :mad:

I may end up cutting the heads of the screws off these last two with a Dremel tool, pulling off the boots, and then getting the screw shafts out with a Vice Grips. That will be my last resort.

In the mean time, my carbs are getting dippped.

***
 
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