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Frustrated and I want to ride!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter topher1556
  • Start date Start date
T

topher1556

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[-o< [-o< I have a 1980 GS1100E. I've been reading the site for awhile and decided to do some maintenance (and from now on I'll be doing this stuff in the winter). The motorcycle was running mostly fine before doing all this. The only problem was cyl3 was not firing at idle. I checked/adjusted my valves, fixed the tach seal leak, fixed the cam chain tensioner leak, and rebuilt my carbs. I also replaced my stock 26yr old coils with some newer suzuki coils (I was told they were off a bandit possibly) from a fellow member here. I installed all the parts, once the carbs were done. Now I'm ASE certified for cars, but just getting tired of dealing with this. I bench synched the carbs, and tried starting it, and it's a no-go. I checked for spark, and got spark on cyl 2 and 4 (and i've ensured one coil pack goes to 1/4, the other goes to 2/3). I also labeled the wires that supply the coils with the trigger so I knew which went to cyls 1/4 and cyls 2/3. A buddy and I thought maybe the ignitor was bad since it seemed to be only triggering partially. I replaced it and there's no difference in performance. Is there a certain way these coils should be wired (the connectors are on the same end instead of one on each end like the stock coils)??

I need someone that can provide some good step-by-step diagnosis with resistance readings etc that I can check. I've got a good multimeter that I'm more than familiar with (fluke 87) so please just point me in the right direction.

I'm so tired of looking at a bike in my garage while it's 75-80 degrees and sunny out and gas it $3 a gallon (while my other ride is a v-8 pickup).

PLEASE GUYS/GALS HELP ME OUT!!!![-o< [-o<
 
You have a vacuum activated petcock like mine. When I work on my carbs and reinstall I have to prime the float bowls or it will never start. You have the petcock with the slot? Remove the vacuum line going into the petcock and with a longer line suck on the line and fill your bowls manually. I ****ed around with this same problem and was mad at myself for the simple explaination. Remember "up and down is prime and back and forth is run" on your petcock.
 
I knew I'd forget to post something important. I've got the tank removed, and an auxilary fuel tank made from a universal coolant tank I picked up at an autoparts store. It's hanging from the handlebar, and I installed new fuel line to the t that feeds the carbs. I assume with this setup that it's getting fuel. I also clamped off the vaccum line that goes to the petcock to make sure it wasn't sucking too much air in, and I've got a set of vacuum manifolds all hooked up and ready to sych once it's running.
 
I had gs 750 that gave me the exact same kind of trouble. Now since I got the bike from a barn find. I learned one thing, unless your are the original owner never never trust anyone too not do the impossibe too these bike.

What my problems was on the air bleed screw the one that is factory set? under the float bowls?. They turned it in so hard they broke off the tip in the barrel. So my fix? I diassembled all four carbs (factory adjusted screws). took a fine wire brush. and inserted it into each hole. The torch cleaner is too big and wont fit in there. If I found a broken off tip, from the screw. I took my air hose. and got her really high at maximum pressure threw some pjblaster down there and then shot em free. I did this with each hole. I made sure that something was coming thru those holes before I reassembled the screws. I talked too a mikuni dealer and he said that it is very possible for that too happen especially on three since it feeds the carbs.

Threw em back on the bike, and whola all four now hit and I even threw on her a set of 4 into 1, I found upstairs off another bike.

She runs, like a clock.

So, you can try this if it helps. I have others things i did too get bikes to run. some you may not deem ethical. lol

plz dont proof read me, I use my hands too think and talk with and I think faster than i type. :)
 
[-o< [-o< Thanks for the suggestion about the screws, but as I said, I personally disassembled a set of carbs and rebuilt them from the ground up, with all new gaskets, o-rings, jets, and including new air screws. When dipping the carbs, I made sure ALL passages were clean and free-flowing to ensure reliability.

Please keep the suggestions coming!!!![-o< [-o<
 
what does ur sizzle test show you with a water bottle? spraying down the exhasut pipes? all four sizzle??
 
Check the cam chain, make sure it didn't jump a tooth or two. 180 degres off? Pull the valve cover it's easy to check. Also crack open a float bowl drain plug just to verify you are getting fuel.
 
8-[ 8-[ All exhaust pipes are cold, because it wont even start. I verified that I have fuel (via checking the bowl drain tube). I don't think I jumped a tooth, since it was running fine before I started my tinkering.8-[ 8-[
 
As with a car, a bik only firing on half cylinders will probably not run. Sounds like you need someone who has the manual to give you proper troubleshooting technique and/or wiring info for the coils.
 
EXACTLY!!!

I have a Clymers manual, but would like a factory walkthrough.
 
Check that you are getting 11.5 volts or more at the coils. It can be real hard to fire the bike up from cold if the coils aren't getting enough juice on the primary.

For a workaround, just hook a wire from the battery to the coils and see if it will fire.

These old bikes are bad about grunge building up in the connectors and grounds getting loose. Go through the wiring harness and clean things up and repair any damage as soon as you can....


HTH
 
Cyg said:
i got the clymer manual Ill take a look tonight for you
Ok found a bunch of crap on numbers, volts etc. So I took the time too scan the pages that deal with that subject. Lets hope you get her running this week.

Good thing I got a big ftp. hehe

Here you go pictures are too big too post on here, I will give you the first one then you can read what you want on the others.


http://netnet.net/~walnutw/Uploads/GsR/
 
Have you tryed bump starting it in 2nd with full choke and no throttle? Maybe then you can see which cylinder is not firing.

A friend had a 1990 GSXR 750 that wouldn't fire on #3, then once warm it would fire off. Never figured out what was going on with it.
 
You should get 3-5 ohms on the primary side of the coils and 30k-50k on the secondary side measured from one plug wire to the other.
 
:-D :-D I'll be checking the suggestions I've gotten and let everyone know how it turns out tonight. :-D :-D
 
Thanks for the suggestion about the float posts, but I promise you the posts are not broken (I physically rebuilt the carbs completely).

I've had computer issues, as well a serious lack of time to work on this irritation piece of ...let's say "shistory". :?

So, if I can't get it fixed, or at least diagnosed by Monday...I'll bet she's strapped to my trailer and I'll drag her to the nearest shop. Dang thing :confused: . And I'll bet she'll be for sale once she's running tip-top.

Beside the suggestions listed earlier, anyone else have something I should check?
 
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