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Frustrated and I want to ride!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter topher1556
  • Start date Start date
I dont know if I just missed you saying you had done this, but after all that work Id try starting it up using the old coils. I mean you did work with the carbs and the coils, so perhaps you can start with the old coils and verify that its not carb related?
 
J_C ...well, I did think of that, but I mistakenly cut off too much of the coil wires that are made into the coil, so I don't think I have enough to re-solder some wire onto it.
 
Get a two sided copper screw and connect the coil wires the same way the plug caps are screwed on.
 
Get a two sided copper screw and connect the coil wires the same way the plug caps are screwed on.

Huh? My plug caps seem to just push on and pull off. Can I do the same with the bandit coils? There seem to be small clips holding the wires on the bandit coils, but I don't want to mess anything up more.

I had a buddy and his dad over last night. The consensus is that the wires/caps are too high resistance, or the coils are weak, not providing enough spark. I have a good visible spark on cyl 4, cyls 1,2,3 I can barely see the spark on the plug, but it's not strong.

Resistances on the coil primary are 3-4 ohms, and the secondary are 52-62k with the caps in place. I have 10-12v at the coil primary
 
you deffinety need too see a strong spark at least on the top part of the stroke. I would go back at ur points, flick em with screw driver and make sure your condesors are good too the points. It is a rare thing too find, but none the less condensors can go bad.
 
you deffinety need too see a strong spark at least on the top part of the stroke. I would go back at ur points, flick em with screw driver and make sure your condesors are good too the points. It is a rare thing too find, but none the less condensors can go bad.

I don't have points/condensers. My bike has the electronic ignition.
 
So, I guess I will try to get coils/wires for it and see how she does. She's not getting taken to a shop anytime soon then (or would that be...i'm not getting taken at a shop anytime soon then...lol).
 
I was referring to reconnecting the coil plug wires into the too short plug wires that you cut out of the old coils and the plug cap that screws into the plug wire. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
 
I will be out of town for most of the week, but I could hook up with you this weekend with the coils from the GS1100 I just picked up. You could at least see if that helps get you started. Of course I bought the bike with the head off, so I can't verify that the coils are good, but there isn't supposed to be anything wrong with them. I also started scanning the electrical section on my factory manual into pdf format. If I get that done before I leave, I'll attach the pages to an email and send them to you.
 
jpaul,

that'd be awesome! Do they have the spark plug boots on them also? just let me know when you're available :-D :-D :-D
 
They have the plug boots on them, so they should be ready to go as soon as I can strip them off the bike. I have commitments on Saturday, but should be able to make down to Akron on Sunday. PM me with your address, and we'll plan on me being there around 1-2 pm, as long as that works for you.
 
Well,

jpaul drove all the way to my house, and I got some good coils from him. I put them on and now have good spark to all four cylinders.

It still does not start. I checked the four plugs, and only one (the #4) has fuel on it, the other 3 look brand new (which they are).

I have a compression gauge that I'm going to check all the cylinders with just to make sure they are up to spec.

Any more help out here?? Should I try to use starter fluid and see if it will rumble to life?
 
Well,

Any more help out here?? Should I try to use starter fluid and see if it will rumble to life?

I wouldn't yet. If you have spark, and the mixtures are set correctly, then you should NOT have a wet spark plug. If only one cylinder is acting up, the bike should at least be trying to start. Therefore, you have AT LEAST two problems. Too much fuel AND/OR lack of spark on #4, and probable lack of fuel on the other 3 (you say "the plugs still look new/dry" =lack of fuel and perhaps lack of spark).

How did you verify spark at each cylinder? Also, did you verify there is actually fuel in all the carb bowls (assuming there is because your petcock is not in place is not acceptable)? Keep in mind fuel+spark=fire...If both are good, the bike will run. If you DEFINITELY have spark, your problem is fuel (carbs) and vice versa. Of course, this assumes your bike was running somewhat before you did your carbs. Going back to the beginning of your thread and following it through, you have made some assumptions and don't tell us how you have concluded you have spark and fuel. Based on the assumptions and what you tell us, you have fuel, and you have spark. Based upon what I read in your last post, I question your spark, and also question your fuel through the carbs.
 
Ahh... I found a major culprit in this exercise.

NO COMPRESSION IN ANY CYLINDERS. One cause came to mind: the timing got off somehow.

It seems that I (stupidly) adjusted the valves while the tensioner was off the bike for seal replacement in the tensioner! This allowed the chain to jump 3 pins, and threw off the whole thing.

So...I checked the timing out of frustration and verified that it was off. So, I'm now currently working on fixing the timing and will post more once I get the timing done.

I hate making stupid mistakes like this. At least I'll learn for the next time.

The timing being off obviously kept the engine from making vacuum therefore keeping fuel out of most of the cylinders.
 
as for stupid mistakes, I still make them after selling twenty bikes since I started getting into this. That part I think we all do. So dont feel bad there.
 
OKAY,

She's back up and running...sort of. I can actually see how rich it's running. And my #1 cylinder exhaust isn't hot.

Will these issues go away once I synchronize it properly?

The great thing is it runs!!
 
I would suggest adjusting the mixtures first, then a sync. At that point you could continue the fine tuning of the mixtures.
 
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