Frustrated and I want to ride!!!

[topher1556]

what would be the best place to start with them? Right now I think they are approx 1 1/4 turns out from being "lightly set".

and since they are air screws, am I correct in thinking they control the air into the idle circuit. so by adjusting back/out they let in more air, and adjusting down/in the let in less? so to fix my richness, I need to let them out more?

And If I remember from other posts, I do this once the engine is warmed up, with the idle set to about 3k using the idle screw in the middle of the bank of carbs. Then I adjust the air screws for the highest idle setting? Then once all are set, I reset the idle to 3k and begin the synch act?

And lastly...I have new fuel line connected to the reservoir I'm using to run the bike with the tank off. Does everyone think it would be okay to keep the extra line attached so it makes tank removal easier? Or should I cut it to the proper length?

 

[Guest]

You need to have the proper length because it will kink and cause fuel starvation.

 

[topher1556]

Does someone have a step-by-step instruction on how to adjust the air screws?

 

[Guest]

Use the highest rpm method. I set the main rpm knob at the lowest without stalling so I can tell when the engine is rising and falling while adjusting the screws. Seat one screw and back it out till you hear the engine at it's highest rpm. If you take it out too far you will actually hear the rpm start to drop. Do this with each cylinder. I grew up in Canal Fulton, Ohio

 

[topher1556]

okay..... I CAN'T TAKE THIS. I'm going to try and keep from swearing.

This thing is the MOST tempermental piece of $%!&.

I started to adjust the air screws, and as the rpms would rise, i'd use the throttle screw to adjust it back down. Then, once it would start to decrease, i'd back it off and go to the next cylinder. When I did this and got to the last cylinder, I rechecked the rest of the cylinders, i had a cold/lukewarm exhaust pipe while the other three seemed pretty hot.

So, I tried screwing all the screws back in, and starting over. This time, instead of going in order of the cylinders (1234), I changed to 3241. This worked until I got to the last cylinder, and it's now the cold one. The screw didn't make a difference, so I tried opening up the throttle on just that cyl, and it got hot, but then cyl 2 was cool. so I tried opening up that throttle valve...and i got to frustrated to go on. It's like I'm chasing my tail!!!!!!!

What the hell is this? Am I going to have to take the stupid carbs off again to bench synch them and then restart this? I AM SO TIRED OF DEALING WITH STUPID CARBUREATORS AND LOOKING AT MY BIKE BEING APART FOR THE PAST FREAKING 1 1/2 - 2 MONTHS. I've had it with carb bikes. Fuel injection is the ONLY way to go.

AAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.

The whole time i was adjusting it, I can see how rich it's running on the left bank. The right bank looks okay, but it started getting to dark....so guess what...to be continued (again and again and again and again and again...till I pay someone to finish this damn thing).

 

[Guest]

A think a bench sync will solve your problems.

 

[GS850_Coug]

Don't readjust your idle until after you have adjusted the mixtures on all 4. This will ensure each cylinder is at it's peak at the same throttle position. When you change throttle position in between, you are effectively modifying the mixture at the same time.

 

[topher1556]

alright...bench synch again

 

[Guest]

I also agree with Coug.

 

[topher1556]

ah...so just adjust the mixtures...before bringing the throttle back down. i'll try that before removing the carbs to bench synch.

 

[topher1556]

So, I think i got the air screws adjusted. Now i'm chasing which tube keeps sucking the water almost completely out.

Is this a sign i now need to friggn bench synch these suckers again?

 

[Guest]

If your synchronizing your carbs check and see if it's #3 that is sucking the water out. If it is lower your idle.

 

[topher1556]

Ha ha...i just called the dealership because I was going to just throw in the towel....

And they don't work on bikes older than 10 yrs old! Ha ha ha...i've now got a big paperweight sitting in my garage (note the sarcasm, frustration, and anger).

 

[topher1556]

If i re-bench synch this thing, and set the air screws to a really good bench synch, do i really have to $%&! with a vacuum synch?

Chef...it was #3, but my idle was all the way down, so i had to mess with closing the other three and then turning the idle up to 1200 or so

 

[topher1556]

and if i magically get this synch'd, would i have to recheck the air screws settings?

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Got your e-mail asking me to join in here. I didn't read the previous replies.
You basically asked about synching and adjusting the pilot mixture screws.
If you're ready to synch, (good spark/timing, valve clearances set, clean filter/carbs, etc...)
I always bench synch to make the vacuum synch quicker/easier.
If the mixture screws were disturbed and you're not sure where they were, try pre-setting about 1 to 1 1/2 turns out.
If all work was done correctly, the bike should start up and idle. Warm it up completely first.
Place the bike on the centerstand and adjust the idle to 1,000/1,100 rpm's.
Now adjust the mixture screws using the highest rpm method. By the way, the mixture screws allow EQUAL parts air and fuel into the pilot circuit. They assist the pilot jet/fine tune for each cylinder by supplying mixture through a secondary passage.
Highest rpm method: starting at any carb, slowly turn a screw in either direction until you hear the rpm's max. Fine tune it. Now re-adjust the rpm's to the base 1,000/1,100 rpm by adjusting the idle adjuster knob. Go to the next carb and repeat until all four are done.
Let the bike cool some if it's hot before vacuum synching. Get two large fans if you haven't already.
Hook up your vacuum tool. Plug the vacuum intake for the petcock. If you're using a remote reservoir, be sure it's vented well or fuel won't flow correctly. Make sure your lines are a good length to avoid kinks, etc. I use the gas tank on a work bench with extended lines.
Do your vacuum synch. I find it easier to bring all four levels to match by lowering any higher ones to meet the lower levels.
Many tuners suggest re-checking the mixture screw adjustments after the synch. I don't generally see any real difference but thought I'd mention it.

 

[topher1556]

I GOT IT. It is now synched as well as I can get it. Ah.....

Now I've just got to put the tank back on and fill 'er up! I'm going to take as long a ride as possible the first chance i get.

Thanks for everyone's support and tips. And thanks for letting me vent during this process. It really was quite frustrating.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hope you have a good ride and come back with a smile on your face.
I have to go out and work in the garden again. It's around 98 degrees and I needed this little break inside. You talk about frustration? Ha! Have a go at my weeds!:lol:

 

[Guest]

Darn CA sunshine:-D

 

[topher1556]

I can't believe how much better this thing performs. Much smoother and more responsive throughout the powerband. I will need to take a plug reading, but so far i'm quite happy with how it's running.