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frustrating bogging and ELECTRICAL? problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter KitKat
  • Start date Start date
K

KitKat

Guest
Sorry in advance for the long post but:

1982 gs 300L 7900 miles.

Original problem:

-bike bogged down in 3rd gear or higher
-leaked gas through to airbox and out the airbox drainage pipe thing

My attempts:

First i ran some seafoam through the tank. No lasting improvement. took apart the petcock, didn't work, ordered brand new OEM petcock. Went through the carbs, checked float height, new needle seat oring, cleaned jets. They were extremely clean. + cycleorings. ordered new OEM airfilter (PO stuck some fake foam down there).

Yesterday:

i put everything on and got new spark plugs. Old ones were black and almost burnt.

Fired it up. Still bogged down, this time even in first, which it did ever since i put seafoam through it. Decided to do some on riding testing. I noticed that when i used my turn signals, the bike would LEAP forward at the times when the light was flashing. so LEAP, bog, LEAP, bog ..... after a couple more minutes of riding normally, and applying the turn signals as normal. VUALA the bog was fixed. Never bogged down again after that. and the power didn't change when the turn signals were on. But the electrical thing was wierd.


Problem continues:

Today:

the bike did not leak anything overnight from anywhere. Yay that problem solved. :D

however; took it for a test. bogged. Tried the electrical thing again. The Bike LURCHES forward with tremendous power while turn signals are on. Only at the time when the light flashes though (hope you understand what i mean). This time, it didn't fix itself:eek::(. Twice, the bike died. Tried to start it up again, but died with any gas. Managed to get it back home. (all this testing was done in my neighborhood fyi haha).


HELP!!!:::

what/ where should i check the voltage at, what could be causing this. I am a beginner at this stuff. This is only my second bike, my first four stroke.

Please be specific as i am a noob:)

Thank you so much
 
forgot to say:

bike is all stock, preformance wise, stock exhaust, stock airbox

only thing aftermarket are handlebars

Thanks
 
Soundsl like the battery is either on its' last leg or the R/R is on its' way out. When the draw increases from the signal light being on, there is a spike in the amperage from the stator, inturn being sent to the R/R and from there to the battery. IF (and it does not sound like connections) the spike in amperage is not regulated and is sent to the coils in a sense, they fire a hotter signal to the plugs. Not sure if this makes any sense but it does in my mind anyway. :| Someone else may have to give you more detail but if you have not fully tested the stator, R/R, and cleaned all the connections first, I'de start there.
 
Hi,

I would start with The Stator Papers and also check and clean every electrical connection and ground on the entire wiring harness, including the fusebox and ignition switch. Cleanliness is next to Conductivity! :D


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
i know this is a newbie question...but where is the stator located :D never messed with it before

Thanks
 
Sounds like you need a service manual, check basscliffs website. the stator is inside the round cover on the left (when seated on bike) side of the engine.
 
So i tested the voltage at the battery on idle and it was around 13.4 - good.

At around 5k rpm it was around 16. (i do not have a tacho on my gs 300L model Z, it doesn't come with one).

I still have the flasher solenoid problem lurching thing.

Im going to test the voltage at the coils real fast right now

Any1 have any insight.

I also cleaned the contacts at the rectifier and things around it. The rectifier on my bike in underneath a side cover, and i could only find 1 yellow wire going to it so i couldnt do bikecliff's stator test :cry:

I need help on this problem, talked to a couple of people and they said they've never seen anything like it.

HELP PLEASE :confused:

Thanks
 
16 is way too high. Sounds like the regulator/rectifier is shot.
 
newGS300Lowner said:
...and i could only find 1 yellow wire going to it so i couldnt do bikecliff's stator test :cry:
Click to expand...

Hi,

As was stated in The Stator Papers, Suzuki used different color wires for the stock charging system, yellow/white-red/green-yellow if I remember correctly. The three wires that go from the r/r into the crankcase area via the starter cavity are your stator wires.

I agree, the voltage output is too high. The battery is being cooked, components and wires are running too hot.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Decided to do some more testing today:


Since the power was pulsing when the flasher solenoid was flashing, i decided to take the bulb out of one side of the turn signals, making it so that if i turned those turn signals on, they would stay on and not flash. THIS made the bike run GREAT perfect. But i know i can't leave it like that. I tried also runnign the bike when the highbeam was on, and it had a similar effect to the all on turn signals, but i didn't get to test it with the highbeam extensively.

I know my bike has the potential to run great. I just have to figure out what the cause of this problem is.

Since 16 is way to high, obviously the reg/rectifier is shot, so if it is shot, could it be sending too much voltage to the turn signals, and other electronics, making it so that when i turn them on, i get hotter spark, or is there another bug here?

Will replacing my reg/rect with a Honda R/R, will it fix these problems?

Thanks
 
Replacing the reg is a good start. Charge the battery, have it tested if you can and disconnect the reg and take the bike for a ride if it still bogs down you have other problem
 
It appears as though the battery charging is good.

When i hook it up to a charger, it says it is full. When the bike is off, the battery gives me upper 12, lower 13 V.

At an idle gives about 13.4 V

So will replacing the r/r solve my problem about the lack of power until i turn the turn signals/high beam on?

Any1 know where i can get a honda r/r or how to find out which honda r/r will fit my bike?

Thanks
 
It sounds like to me you may have more than 1 thing going on. First thing I would do is check all the wiring around you Reg\rec make sure the ground wire is connected to good clean metal most folks move it right to the neg side of the battery. Also you may want to connect the red wire from the R/R right to the pos side of the battery with an inline fuse. Check all the connectors to and from the R/R they tend to heat up over the years and work poorly.
I would measure the voltage at you coils with the motor running first with out doing your trick with the turn signal and then with your trick. It could be the coils are somehow borrowing power from the lights because its own power source isnt delivering full battery voltage which is what you should have at the coils. It could also be poor grounds the wiring on these old bikes has gotten tired so cleaning and checking is a basic must on the bikes. Good luck.
 
Thank you for the info, i will check the voltage at the coils tomorrow, as well as the grounds.

How do i check the voltage at the coils when the bike is running/not running?

I have never done it before, i am really new to this stuff

Thanks
 
Th coils are under the gas tank you might be able to lift the tank some and clip on the lead from your meter the red lead to the orange/white wire it will be the wire that goes from 1 coil to the other to supply them both with power. The black lead to ground at the battery. Good luck
 
Thank you for explaining it so precisely. I will do that the first chance i get tomorrow.

I will keep you guys up to date to see what my voltmeter and some other things i do that you guys suggested, and how they turn out


Thanks
 
So to measure the voltage going to the coils, its the orange wire that supplies power to both of them.

Do i have to remove the wire from one coil or something to measure it?


Thanks
 
ill post pictures on here soon, i found the red wire that connects to the r/r, and so some of you suggested to wire straight with an in-line fuse to the battery positive terminal?

I coulnd't find the green wire that is supposed to be the ground.

All the wires that connect to the r/r wrap around, under the tank, and into the headlight bucket, making them pretty hard to trace.

Help?

Thanks
 
figuring out this r/r

figuring out this r/r

close up of the wires (attempt)

2r2bvdi.jpg



bundle of wires that i traced them joining into to go into the headlight bucket

313jhhk.jpg





another close up of wires

4rvrl5.jpg




r/r position relative to bike. This is the left side cover (if you are sitting on the bike)

rif2py.jpg



So the rightmost red wire in that connects to the r/r, should i wire it with an in-line fuse to the battery positive terminal?

Also, can any1 identify where the ground wire is?????

Thanks
 
Last edited:
coil voltage

coil voltage

i just measured the volts from the coils without doing my turn signal trick..

The voltage was bouncing all over anywhere from around 7 - 13 volts, and it would increase if giving the bike some gas. it didn't seem to make much of a difference when i applied the turn signals, and it never has when im just sitting in nuetral, the turn signals only seem to me to make a power difference when i am actually driving.

Any1 have any other things i can test? or help?????

Thanks
 
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