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frustrating bogging and ELECTRICAL? problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter KitKat
  • Start date Start date
is voltage measuring at the coils AC or DC?

i know its a beginner question but i just don't know:confused:

Thanks
 
Dc volts at the coil. the only ac on the bike comes from the stator those are the 3 wires that come out of the starter cover and go the the RR.
 
also, i was going to go through my harness. ANy1 have a wiring diagram for an 82 gs 300L bikecliff's site didn't have one but it had a gs450, can i use that instead? are they basically the same??


Thanks

ill remeasure the coil volts
 
just did the coil volts again

They were both consistantly around 12.3 V, without the turn signals. When applying the turn signals, the left seemed to go down .X volts (but still in the 12's) X = maybe 1 -3. and the right went up .X volts, X being the same number.

How does this sound? Thats around battery voltage, so it sounds good to me.

If this is not my problem, im checking the wiring in the r/r?

what wires could potentially be the problem?

Thanks
 
there will be some differances but I think the colors used are the same ie orange and white tends to be for the ignition.
 
It sounds like the voltage at your coils are about right if that is the same the battey shows. You need 2 things for current to flow a supply and a return which is the ground. From what you decribed earlier i think you charging system maybe ok. Voltage and current are related if 1 goes up the other goes down. So if you bike isnt drawing much current say because the coils arnt drawing full current you could have a high voltage like 16 at the battery.
I would try and measure the battery voltage first without the light trick and then with it to see if the voltage goes down when the bike picks up. I'm thinking you have a bad ground somewhere. The coils themselves get ground thru the mounting bolts so make sure the are tight and the metal is clean where the coils mount to the bike.
 
i will do exactly what you said right now and get back to you very shortly with hopefully happy results.

Thank you so much for your quick responses to my questions.

You are greatly appreciated
 
Did some work, no improvement

Did some work, no improvement

So i just went through the r/r wires, and all looked ok. Looked at a wiring diagram for a 450 and it had an inline fuse for one wire off the battery that connects to it at the starter solenoid. Mine didn't have a fuse. Installed an inline 20 amp fuse. Looked at the coils. Volts were consistantly above 12. Took em off, cleaned contacts and mounting points.

Took it for a drive. Drove great the first couple of seconds. then started to bog. Turned the turn signals on. Leapt forward the moment it flashes, bogs the moment the light goes off. Then leaps again.

I will go through the wiring diagram again (the 450 one) and check all of my grounds.

What can be causing the turn signals to give it the extra power, it does not gain any extra power from the highbeam; only the turn signals do????????????????

please help with this problem, no one i have talked to has ever experienced this before.

Thanks in advance
 
bump (help please)

i have been trying everything i know and what you guys are suggesting yet nothing seems to have any effect whatsoever

Any1 have any other ideas?



How does one test their r/r?

Thanks
 
Hi,

My stock r/r unit had a black ground wire. My Honda replacement r/r unit has a green ground wire and a black "sense" wire.

Do you have a manual for your bike? Manuals make maintenance so much easier. I'm sorry I haven't collected one for your bike. You may have to order one from Clymer or Haynes, they're better than nothing.

Is that silver thing (with the fins) your r/r unit? Or do you have a separate regulator and rectifier? Those wires in your fuzzy pictures are coming out of a plastic gizmo. R/R units are all metal like that silver thing in your last picture. Is there a macro function on your camera? That's what you use for close-up pictures.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
That silver thing with fins is my r/r. it has like plug in slot that is plastic which houses 5 different connecters.

Anyway... a buddy of mine had an 82 gs650ET rectifier that he said he bought as a spare and it was working when he bought it. It had the exact same color wires on all (5 wires). so we used some wires, and wired em up to my bike. All and all, it ran GREAT. full power, and the turn signals dind't add any extra power (a good thing)!.

To be sure of it, i let it sit and cool for acouple of hours. Started it right up and VROOM ran like a champ!.

I will let it sit overnight and test it again tomorrow morning before i become excited.

Any1 have any input?

Thanks
 
Sounds like you got it. I'm guessing that by turning on your blinker that caused 1 of the other leggs of the RR to produce current which the coils used to fire better. The RR have 3 "leggs" that produce the current 1 of which used to be switched on by the headlight switch until the headlights had to be on at all times. Good luck
 
So for the last of testing this is what i did today:

started the bike right up. Without a lot of warm up time, started driving around. ran great first few seconds. then started to bog. tried the turn signals, they gave some extra power. After abotu 15 more seconds, ran great for about 30 seconds. then bogged again. then in about 10 seconds, drove great again and stayed that way.

Any1 have any idea what is going on here, im super confused?

thanks
 
just went for another ride. Ran perfect the whole time.

I have come to the conclusion that i will just let the bike warm up for about 5 minutes or so before i ride and all should be ok. Because i didn't let it warm up at all before (just start and go). and it bogged a little then fixed itself. so warming up for 5 minutes should do the trick.

Any1 have comments on it. Is it normal for a bike to have to warm up a bit before going under load? its only my second bike so i have no idea

Thanks
 
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