Fuel gauge float

[oldrookie]

Have a question for those that have messed around with the float inside the tank.

The float came off mine last summer and has been banging around inside the tank since. I took the sender unit out this morning and fished the float out.

Here's what I found:

Any guidance as to how the float attaches to the arm? Just not seeing how this works and the oem fiche is not much help.

Thanks

 

[GateKeeper]

I think there are some parts still missing, and still in the tank, but I could be wrong, I have not seen the fiche


took a look at the fiche

looks like the float itself has eroded itself, the hole is huge and the washers are not holding it in place any more, and seems the one end either broke off, loosened off

put on some larger washers to hold the float in place, and crimp something on the end to hold it all in place, maybe even some thin wire wrapped on the float and arm to hold it in place, don't make it too heavy, could cause a mis reading of the actual level ?

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[Steve]

It has been a while since I have played with a float, but I agree, there are a couple of parts that are missing.

When attached, the float will still pivot on the end of the arm, so it just needs a washer to keep it from sliding off, then a retainer to hold the washer in place.

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[Guest]

This float is from a 78 1000 but all the floats I've seen just have the clip on the end that you can see. Really it looks as though your hole has gotten to big.

 

[tkent02]

You can make a much better float out to a cork or a piece of wood.

 

[koolaid_kid]

What about drilling a very small hole in the flat part and putting a small cotter pin in there to hold the washer on? As Steve stated, it is important that the float pivot freely on the arm.
You will have to recalibrate it due to the change in weight. IIRC, that consists of bending the arm just a bit.

 

[Steve]

You will have to recalibrate it due to the change in weight. IIRC, that consists of bending the arm just a bit.

Not sure that the addition of a washer or a cotter pin will affect "calibration" all that much.

Personally, though, I would check the calibration anyway, and set it so that you KNOW the status of the fuel level as you approach empty.

I like to set the gauge so that I have to switch to REServe about the time the needle goes into the red zone.

.

 

[Guest]

Steve suggests:

"I like to set the gauge so that I have to switch to REServe about the time the needle goes into the red zone."

A good plan!!

 

[oldrookie]

What about drilling a very small hole in the flat part and putting a small cotter pin in there to hold the washer on? As Steve stated, it is important that the float pivot freely on the arm.
You will have to recalibrate it due to the change in weight. IIRC, that consists of bending the arm just a bit.

What you are suggesting confirms my diagnosis. Not sure what, if anything is missing (here's the fiche link http://www.partshark.com/fiche_sect...y=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1983&fveh=2125) and as you see there isn't much explanation.

Not sure how I'll solve this. Thought about drilling a hole with a cotter pin as well, koolaid kid. Thought about trying to find a plastic washer of a larger size, but am concerned about its long-term survival in gasoline.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Not sure that the addition of a washer or a cotter pin will affect "calibration" all that much.

Personally, though, I would check the calibration anyway, and set it so that you KNOW the status of the fuel level as you approach empty.

I like to set the gauge so that I have to switch to REServe about the time the needle goes into the red zone.

.

As one of our members likes to say "to measure is to know".
oldrookie, I have plastic gas containers, and there are plastic gas tanks, so I guess you could check around.

 

[Steve]

Steve suggests:

"I like to set the gauge so that I have to switch to REServe about the time the needle goes into the red zone."

A good plan!!

Easiest way I have found to do that is to re-route the fuel line from the petcock to a gas can on the floor, then set the petcock to RUN and apply vacuum to the vacuum port (I use my MityVac for this). When the gas stops running, turn the ignition key ON, look at the fuel gauge to see if you need to make any adjustments.

If the gauge is reading lower than the white/red transition (the most-likely situation), bend the float DOWN. Yes, you will likely have to finish draining the tank before turning it over to remove the float, but you are supposed to be smart enough to figure that one out for yourself.

When you have that mark set, move the petcock to REServe or PRIme to finish emptying the tank, but leave the key ON while doing this to see the needle position when the gas stops flowing this time. Note that position as your "Oops" position. :-\\\

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[oldrookie]

Had to take some snow tires in to the local Miata guru shop to get them mounted on some rims I am buying from the shop owner. Took the fuel gauge with me.

He said, "No problem" and welded a slightly larger washer on the outside. Should do the trick.

I'll worry about calibration next time I run out of gas

 

[Guest]

Easiest way I have found to do that is to re-route the fuel line from the petcock to a gas can on the floor, then set the petcock to RUN and apply vacuum to the vacuum port (I use my MityVac for this). When the gas stops running, turn the ignition key ON, look at the fuel gauge to see if you need to make any adjustments.

If the gauge is reading lower than the white/red transition (the most-likely situation), bend the float DOWN. Yes, you will likely have to finish draining the tank before turning it over to remove the float, but you are supposed to be smart enough to figure that one out for yourself.

When you have that mark set, move the petcock to REServe or PRIme to finish emptying the tank, but leave the key ON while doing this to see the needle position when the gas stops flowing this time. Note that position as your "Oops" position. :-\\\

.

Thank you sir....

 

[Steve]

Thank you sir....

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[msy3]

I have an '80 GS850GL with a fuel gauge. I'm planning on changing the instrument panel (if I can) and want to remove the fuel gauge. Has anyone changed the petcock out and replaced it from a different GS that has a reserve switch on it? Does it fit the GL tank?

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

That float is history. You could try and drill it out and use a piece of brass tubing either soldered to the metal arm or pressed into the float

 

[Guest]

You can make a much better float out to a cork or a piece of wood.

I agree, might want to also use a brass tube for the float wire so it doesn't wear out the piece of wood.

 

[chuck hahn]

That float IS NOT TOAST.. The float material isnt of any issue...except i think cork can come aprt and little chunks can be floating around

What I would do with that egged out float is this..
Take and shave a little material off the end of it to allow a small light weight copper or braqss washer to slip over the arm. Next, use one of those star center looking tabs that hold a trim piece to the seat and push that onto the metal arm to trap the washer and float back on to the arm.

OR you couls find some gas resistant tubing and resleeve the float to refit it to the arm...and use the washer and press on retainer thing to secure it.

 

[chuck hahn]

SPEED NUT is the name of the starred looking clips i was talking about.

 

[Agemax]

do you mean these chuck?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLAT-CLIP...rial_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item43b7b12a97