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Fuel tubes on VM carbs question?

  • Thread starter Thread starter slyone
  • Start date Start date
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slyone

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It really seems/appears that these o-rings are actually molded right in, is it possible? The material around them is actually a rubber/plastic too. I was trying to replace the F-seals in Bob's kit:confused:
Also, think I should use carb cleaner on bodies after dip to remove any dip residue? They seem "wet" in spots after blown and sat a day? just don't want new seals compromised...TIA!
 
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There are no Orings in those..the ridge is molded in the plastic to mimmick one though..then they are rubber dipped for sealing effect..they SUCK SUCK SUCK. They almost always start to leak afetr they are remopved from the crabs because the rubber is compressed, dried out, and will never expand again to reseal properly. I STRONGLY suggest you get with Z1 and get the meatl ones that do actually take repairable orings that are in the kit. Do it now and save another round of carb removal and tear down to replace them.
 
As i am spraying all the ports out when i remove them from the dip, I always wash down the bodies too. Take a tooth brush and baking soda to clean the bodies off good. Or use a wire wheel like I do. You can also check out that other guys thread about alternate cleaning metods..I have posted pics and a explanation of my method there.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=200906
 
chuck hahn said:
There are no Orings in those..the ridge is molded in the plastic to mimmick one though..then they are rubber dipped for sealing effect..they SUCK SUCK SUCK.
Click to expand...

They have actually worked fine for me, except the one that was broken. They have always sealed just fine. Once in a while they seep a little until the rubber swells up then they seal tight, no big deal.

The metal ones with o rings have leaked a lot more often, but new o rings is an easy fix for that.
 
Chucks right. Go ahead and plan on replacing them if they end up leaking... or hedge our bet and do it now. If they did not leak before you removed them they may after you put them back in.. mine did and I got the upgrades from Z1. Yours might not leak if you re-use them, but just be ready for the possibility.

tp
 
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And MUCH MORE reliable for the orings than the roll of the dice on the plastic ones..like you said..they leaked right from jump street ( until and IF they swell up )... metal and oring ones dont.
 
OK, Chuck. You have my permission to use the metal ones and mess around with orings all you want.

I'll keep my non leaky plastic tubes as they are.
 
The biggest mistake i find people make with the Orings..being on fuel tubes or on pil,ot and mixture screws..is that they dont lube the holes and the orings with a thin smear of some grease. They need lubed so the orings slide down the holes without scraping or actually grabbing enought to be rolled out of the grooves. Dry installation is a potential for rips and trouble in general.
 
tkent02 said:
A good idea to lube the plastic ones too, spray silicone lube works well.
Click to expand...

Tom's right - I've never thrown any of those plastic ones away. They do shrink when removed from the carbs and left to dry out but if you just toss them in some petrol for a few minutes they swell up as good as new.
 
Wow, lots of feedback, Thanks! I will of course try to reuse cause I'm an impatient cheap son of a bitxx..lol. If they leak, I will get the new ones indeed, Thanks. wish I woulda ordered new bowl gaskets:( now can't wait, so will try my hand at fabricating new ones...:rolleyes:
 
I've used thin smear of gasket maker (fuel safe type of course) on some of my carbs that had leaks as well, worked like a charm.
 
Got my 1st bowl gaskets done! Looks like I'm saving $40.00 on new ones:D
 
When you make your own gaskets one of the key checks to make is that they don't foul the floats.

Looking good.
 
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