Fuse and Electrical

[BassCliff]

I am also looking at www.wiringproducts.com for the wire that I will use, but they don't have the color variation I need. Do any of you know where I can buy spools of matching wire for my bike?

BassCliff, would you mind posting a picture of your retro-fitted fusebox so I can get an idea how to mount a different one? Thanks!

Hi,

I have yet to replace the fuse box on my bike. But here is a picture from one of Mr. Steve's bikes. The new fuse box is mounted pretty much in the same area as the old one.

This is an $8 ATC fuse box from Pep Boys:

One member used 2 fuse boxes under his seat to give him room for expansion:

All the above found using the Search function.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[bobiii84]

Sound right?

Sound right?

So I'm going to run through the stator papers tommorow when I'm off but until then I have a theory. It's been about 6 months since I replaced the R/R by going through the stator papers and testing. I ran ground direct and did everything else people suggested. Since my headlamp blew and it looks like the turn signals that were on blew as well, what's the chances that the R/R failed me and allowed a big surge through? That would mean my loose fuse had nothing to do with it like you guys suggest. But if that's the case, why didn't my fuse stop the surge? Just a thought, thanks for your time!

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

When you say your headlamp and blinkers "blew", do you mean the filaments actually melted and the bulbs are no good? Or did they just quit working?



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[bobiii84]

The filament in the headlamp blew for sure, I checked that the day this happened, and I know I'm getting power to the connector. I won't have time to check the blinkers till tommorow, but I assume since neither of them work while the right side does, that they are blown. I'll post more information tommorow as I find it out. I have an ignition switch on the way brand new for about $25, we'll see how that goes I also have the fuse box from Nessism coming and I will start testing the bike and running through the wiring tommorow.

 

[tom203]

So I'm going to run through the stator papers tommorow when I'm off but until then I have a theory. It's been about 6 months since I replaced the R/R by going through the stator papers and testing. I ran ground direct and did everything else people suggested. Since my headlamp blew and it looks like the turn signals that were on blew as well, what's the chances that the R/R failed me and allowed a big surge through? That would mean my loose fuse had nothing to do with it like you guys suggest. But if that's the case, why didn't my fuse stop the surge? Just a thought, thanks for your time!

What kind of r/r did you use as a replacement? Did you wire r/r positive (probably red) direct to battery with fuse or thru the harness?

 

[bobiii84]

I bought the r/r from regulatorrectifier.com

1 x 1980 550 GS550L REGULATOR RECTIFIER (10-202)

I wired the negative right to the battery but put the positive through fuse just like it was wired before.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Have you had a chance to take off the tank and the seat to go over the entire wiring harness, looking for melted connectors, worn insulation, corroded connections, etc? Are there any botched connections using wire nuts or electrical tape? Fuses are cheap. Have you replaced all of them? I know wiring issues are just about the worse, but take your time and be methodical. You'll get it.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Matchless]

If a fuse seems to be "loose" the chances are good that one of the fuse terminals in the fuse block had heated up and have melted the plastic it is mounted in slightly. This is quite common on the old glass fuse blocks and bending the brass plates to clip the fuse properly does not seem to last. Such fuses also seem to jump out of the clips when riding.

Using such a fuse block creates endless problems and the best is to replace the fuse box immediately with a blade type.

 

[tom203]

I bought the r/r from regulatorrectifier.com

1 x 1980 550 GS550L REGULATOR RECTIFIER (10-202)

I wired the negative right to the battery but put the positive through fuse just like it was wired before.

Wiring sounds good- but that looks like the small r/r's I've seen. Can you measure it and tell me its dimensions? I'm suspicious of the little ones.

 

[bobiii84]

The new r/r is just under 1 3/4" wide and 3" tall. It's much smaller than the original but a little deeper if I'm not mistaken. And BassCliff, I will be pulling off the tank and running through all the wiring/connectors here shortly. Hope to have more for you then!

 

[bobiii84]

Here is where the burning electrical smell came from. Turns out even though I was sure it was the ignition switch, the smell was just moving up the tank :/

So my question is does this change anything? Could the coil have been the whole problem that caused the fuse to blow etc? Does anyone know where I can get one or the pair for a fair price new? I can google, I just want to make sure you all don't know of something better. I'm still pretty novice and appreciate the advice, thanks!

 

[bobiii84]

So all of the bulbs that were on at the time are burned out. Rear brake light works, but not the running lights back there. I'm looking for a new coil at oldbikebarn:

http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Kawasaki...dbfQwSqJyNx6Z!-452276494?sc=12&category=73745

I'll assume it's best to buy both of them instead of just one, is this correct?

Also found this one for cheap but not sure if it's a good idea to buy it:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzu...dZViewItemQQcategoryZ35594QQitemZ160474972278

 

[hakuin]

Funny, the same general scenario just kicked-in with my bike (80 GS850) today. After a 47 mile ride, the turn signals started to work intermittently, then not at all. I then noticed my headlight out when I parked. The top fuse holder was loose, and with pressure-applied, the lights work fine. When I let go, so do the lights...guess I'm getting a new fuse block too. And my bike didn't come with a fuse cover either...didn't even know it was supposed to be there.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

It's best practice to replace the pair. Have you tested your coils? If they do need replacement, these are a favorite:



Click the picture for more information on the green 3 ohm Dyna coils.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[7981GS]

Perhaps you could get a great deal on a complete wiring harness from this member: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=167988
And several other parts.
It may not be an L model but I would think that they are pretty close.

Daniel

 

[bobiii84]

Update

Update

Just as an update to this thread. Turns out it was the r/r that blew for some reason, taking with it the left coil, the igniter, a fuse, most of my lights. I have already installed new coils and I'm getting the DS3-2 ignition instead of obscene prices for a new igniter. I had that r/r for less than 6 months when it blew so I'm trying to use the warranty but I will keep you up to date. Thanks for all the comments and help that led to figuring this out!