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Fuse blowing during pre-ignition

  • Thread starter Thread starter fritalian
  • Start date Start date
I attempted to disconnect the RR but the plastic connector won't come apart, Also, the wires leading to the RR (the bundle on left in 1st photo) are rock hard and will not flex at all. Whereas the bottom bundle is flexible and pliable. I also noticed what looks like a slight deformation of the connector housing (1st pic). IN the second photo there is what looks like melting or deformation of wires (yellow). I'm thinking all of this = not good.
I'm pretty sure that I will destroy the connections trying to get them apart. Is there another way to disconnect the RR other than from the connector in the photo? I mean, this might not be the problem and if it ain't broke, I don't want to break it.

 
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, not sure what that gunk is though. The locking tab is broken on it, can you wiggle the connector at all. Grasp is firmly and wiggle.
 
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I've grasped very firmly and pulled plenty but nothing is moving. I'm thinking of using pliers next.
 
fritalian said:
I've grasped very firmly and pulled plenty but nothing is moving. I'm thinking of using pliers next.
Click to expand...
..or wide blade screw diver to pry between the connector bodied.

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. d e l e t e d
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But anyway, can see that the connector half on left isn't the exact mate for the half on the right (slightly different look and the retaining mechanism does not match), so maybe is quite a tight fit, or maybe has been a little melting that is making it difficult to get apart .. or maybe some corrosion between the metal connectors (but that usaly leads to bad connection and things heating up and melting connector real noticeable.)
 
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HUm..... yep
550E (and ES I would think) are a bit different.


http://smokeriders.com/diagrams/Suzuki/Four-Strokes/GS550/GS550E.gif



GS550E.gif
 
Tried to maintain the integrity of the connector this morning but it wasn't meant to be. It came apart alright, just not the way I had hoped. The connectors were totally nuked inside. Guess what happened after I attempted o start the bike after disconnecting the RR? Magic! It started as it should, hacked out 7 months of phlegm, jumped around in the revs slightly then settled in at 1000 rpm.
Does anyone know where I can get an RR shipped to Canada fast?



 
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J-P,

okay, making progress.. well, in one area anyway.
Have disconnected R/R and now bike not blowing Main fuse, so can conclude that the R/R is what was blowing the fuse.
Although, I was wondering if the mess in the connector itself could have been blowing the main fuse, but doesn't look like the connector body was deformed such that the hot lead might make contact with anything else, so probably not.

You can run the bike without the R/R, just don't go too far before getting back to a battery charger.

Looks like the connector on r/r side and the connector on the bike side are both messed up. You will be replacing the R/R and it will come with its connector. You could replace the connector on the bike side (I do not have the contact info -- har har no pun intended).


Just about any R/R meant for 80s GS will work. About only difference between R/R for different bikes and different years is the connector ... and you may not be using your connector anyway.


If you are just trying to get it back together, you could just use individual connectors for each wire. Earlier you said the wires were stiff (probably from the repeated heating). Has been my experience that if the wires are stiff that the typical crimp on connectors will not be reliable. So my experience has been that wire nuts are more reliable in that case. (but I am the only person that has been saying that.) Maybe you can cut the wire back an inch or so and the wire there may be more ductile.

Maybe you can return a couple packs of the 15 amp fuses for a pack of the little grey wire nuts (or the little blue ones).

THe comments about improving the ground is good advice, but not realy related to this problem of the R/R blowing main fuse and the connector having problems. On most GSes the R/R is mounted on battery box, and the r/r ground wire is grounded on the battery box, but the battery box itself is not well mounted to the frame, and is a ground wire in woring harness that is suppose to better ground the batterybox. But that is not reliable either, so many folks add their own additiona ground wire from the battery box to the bike frame (or batt neg).

And ... some good advice related to anything suspect with R/R:
Also check the stator.
Problems with stator can casue problems with R/R. Could replace r/r and 2 days later have same problem again.
Will need volt-ohm meter for checking that.
We could discuss it here, but is also in the Stator Papers that can be found back on GSR home page.

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Redman said:
J-P,


Problems with stator can casue problems with R/R. Could replace r/r and 2 days later have same problem again.


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Click to expand...

I was afraid you would say that. Looking for digital multimeter now.
Thanks Redman.
 
posplayr said:
Lovely Bullet connector on the R/R ground. :-#
Click to expand...

That's the one I ordered. The ground should fit nicely but I hope the opposite matching plastic connector comes with the rig because I destroyed the other one removing it.

While the tank was off I changed the air filter and plugs. Put the tank back on, filled it, and took the bike out for a spin. Runs great. Just waiting for the rr.
 
fritalian said:
That's the one I ordered. The ground should fit nicely but I hope the opposite matching plastic connector comes with the rig because I destroyed the other one removing it.

Just waiting for the rr.
Click to expand...
Do yourself a favor- send that R/R back to amazon and get a SH-775 series unit. Twice as much money, but like me, you'll probably tire of replacing stators that have been toasted by the regulator (gets annoying and expensive)
 
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