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Fuse Box upgrade
- Thread starter tas850g
- Start date
D
doctorgonzo
Guest
You can make it work, no doubt, an even better upgrade would be an $8 ATC fuseblock from your local pep boys that gets rid of the glass fuses.
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Steve
GS Whisperer
As the good doctor mentioned, ... yeah, sorta, if you really want it to be.
It won't be a direct bolt-in fit, because (I believe) your '79 has two fuse boxes. One fuse is by itself (ACC fuse) and the other four are in their own box. The '83 and '85 boxes will have all five fuses in one box. Unless those boxes are basically free, as the doctor mentioned, if you are looking to "upgrade" (and you used that word), you would be better off getting a 6- or 8-position block that uses ATC fuses.
If you do that, though, you will have to do a little more re-wiring as all of those fuses will be on the same feed. You really need to have a fuse in your main line that feeds the ignition switch because that comes straight off the battery. The switched wire coming from the ignition switch then goes back to the fuse box, and that is what will feed your 6 or 8 sub-circuits. If it were my bike, I would install a single fuse (or circuit breaker) for the main line and use the switched wire from the ignition switch to control a relay that turns on the power to the fuse panel. Hey, you are going to have to do some re-wiring anyway, why not do just a little more and take the load off the ignition switch contacts? If you go with the relay idea, that fuse that is feeding the ignition switch won't have to be very big, as its only load will be the relay. A 1-amp fuse would be overkill. :-\\\ On second thought, if you put the key in the PARK position, the tail light bulb will be fed from this, but a 1-amp fuse will still work.
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J
jed.only
Guest
but you need 2 for both circuits, one for 4 accessories and one for the 12v constant, if i understand correctly.
read here.
read here.
Steve
GS Whisperer
If you REALLY want to upgrade and don't mind spending a little bit of money in the process ... check out this box. It has six circuits and you can decide whether each circuit is always live or switched merely by moving the fuse to another location. Sure, it costs $80, but it's a quality piece of work.
(But you still need a separate feed to the ignition switch.)
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G
Guest
Guest
The fuseblock on the 1150 IS the atc style...no glass fuses. It would probably work, and is about the same size as the block on the older GS's.
D
doctorgonzo
Guest
Good to know, didn't think there were any ATC fuseblocks on japanese bikes before the 90's.
D
doctorgonzo
Guest
The 12V constant on mine is an inline ATC fuse the accessories go through the block..
G
GQROD
Guest
I used two in order to give me enough circuits to be added on later and clean up the harness. They were cheap and fit perfectly under the seat.
J
jed.only
Guest
I used two in order to give me enough circuits to be added on later and clean up the harness. They were cheap and fit perfectly under the seat.
you are the man.
what exactly do you have running there, and is the 12v constant running through one, or separate like mentioned earlier?
my bike doesnt look like that. what is the thing with the 4 screws in it?
Steve
GS Whisperer
Cool. When did they make the switch? Did they switch boxes on the smaller GSs as well?
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tas850g
Forum Mentor
somebody already converted the 4 fuse box to the 5 fuse box when i got it along with the electronic ignition. I've had some issues with the glass fuses and have been told that the spade ATC (not sure what that stands for) fuses are a good improvement.
According to some of my research the 82 850's/750's (select models) and up use the spade fuses. According to pictures on micro fiche from flat out and alpha anyway.
what does the accessory fuse do?
i don't like to go drilling everywhere to add something that might use the same drill holes that i already have. Don't know if you would call OCD or not but.....
Some great suggestion though. It's incredible the things you can use and places you can go to find replacement parts without using the somewhat "original" parts.
Thanks for the ideas.
According to some of my research the 82 850's/750's (select models) and up use the spade fuses. According to pictures on micro fiche from flat out and alpha anyway.
what does the accessory fuse do?
i don't like to go drilling everywhere to add something that might use the same drill holes that i already have. Don't know if you would call OCD or not but.....
Some great suggestion though. It's incredible the things you can use and places you can go to find replacement parts without using the somewhat "original" parts.
Thanks for the ideas.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Well, I can verify that the '82 850L has glass fuses, so I guess that falls into the "select models" disclaimer, doesn't it? :-k
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Steve
GS Whisperer
G
GQROD
Guest
Thank you, the thing with the for screws ( phillips head ) is the seat mount.
I run one fuse box just for ground.
The second is just for 12 volts Positive.
I could have used a distribution block but separating the grounds and centralizing them gives me an easy way to test each circuit without digging out the harness.
Most of the circuit additions will be low power with the exception of the 139 db horn i just added, so i needed a lot of available fused circuits that were easily accessable,still making the cover for the air horn.
My 12 volt constant is the 4 guage red wire you see going to the fuse box. I still have the original fuse box mounted and i still have a free circuit there to use. I did't want to change things from stock when it came to what was already there, it aint broke why fix it?
The stator output isn't that high to run too many high powered accessories, however i have a distribution block that will provide power from solar panels that will be used to trickle charge main battery when parked in the sun. It will be a 25 watt solar panel which is big so i'll use two smaller ones to provide the needed 1.5 amps
All my upgrades can be seen from the photbucket album linked to my signature as this is an evolving project.
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J
jed.only
Guest
Thank you, the thing with the for screws ( phillips head ) is the seat mount.
I run one fuse box just for ground.
The second is just for 12 volts Positive.
I could have used a distribution block but separating the grounds and centralizing them gives me an easy way to test each circuit without digging out the harness.
Most of the circuit additions will be low power with the exception of the 139 db horn i just added, so i needed a lot of available fused circuits that were easily accessable.
My 12 volt constant is the 4 guage red wire you see going to the fuse box. I still have the original fuse box mounted and i still have a free circuit there to use. I did't want to change things from stock when it came to what was already there, it aint broke why fix it?
The stator output isn't that high to run too many high powered accessories, however i have a distribution block that will provide power from solar panels that will be used to trickle charge main battery when parked in the sun. It will be a 25 watt solar panel which is big so i'll use two smaller ones to provide the needed 1.5 amps
All my upgrades can be seen from the photbucket album linked to my signature as this is an evolving project.
that is cool, thanks for sharing. i think is smart to have all the ground in one place, like you said, easy to diagnose.
G
GQROD
Guest
No problem always happy to share. The people on this site made this all possible with their advice so i only made it this far with their help. They'll get you through any problem that comes up good luck and let us now how it goes!
Steve
GS Whisperer
For all the farkles on my wife's bike, I used a distribution panel (terminal strip) mounted under the right side panel. Switched power is fed to the panel from a relay under the left side panel. When I installed that relay, I also added a relay that cuts power to the headlight when the starter button is pushed. Here are the relays:
Here is the terminal strip:
The strip has changed a bit since this picture was taken, but there are a few items connected at the top to switched power, one row is constant power, the bottom rows are all grounds.
Can't say as I would recommend this to everyone, but it works for me.
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Here is the terminal strip:
The strip has changed a bit since this picture was taken, but there are a few items connected at the top to switched power, one row is constant power, the bottom rows are all grounds.
Can't say as I would recommend this to everyone, but it works for me.
.
D
doctorgonzo
Guest
As I'm wiring mine back up after this teardown I think I'll add the relay to cut the headlight power when the starter button is pushed, if as an electronic retard I can figure it out.