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Fusebox Upgrade

  • Thread starter Thread starter JStones
  • Start date Start date
J

JStones

Guest
Before I get chastised here, I read the Fusebox Upgrade on BassCliffs site.

I know that the issue here is me but I still dont get it. Does anyone have some additional pictures or step by step instructions?

I was starting to follow the tutorial but then it was jumping between the type of fuseboxes and then the one picture that I really thought "Wow this is what I need" had a memo next to it that said "this is what not to do".

I have attached a picture of the fusebox I purchased at advanced auto.

The last thing I want to do is mess this up.
 
That fuse panel has a common bus that will provide the same power to each of six fuses.

The stock fuse panel has two fuses on constant power and three on switched power.

One way to use your new panel would be to install a relay between the main power lug and the battery. (I would use the battery terminal of the starter solenoid rather than the actual battery, but that's just me.) Use the orange wire that feeds your original fuse panel to trigger the relay. You will have to re-route the red wire that goes from the main fuse to the ignition switch. It needs to have constant power (get that from the solenoid, too) to send to the ignition key, which will activate the relay and turn on the rest of the bike.

.
 
Sounds like I should just get a proper fuse block then, agree?
 
That one will work.

Or go to my projects thread (81 550T in Co Sprgs) and read up on the box I used. I can send some other pictures plus the wiring diagram that Steve built for me if you'd like.
 
well let me start simple here... I have main, lamps, signals, ignition. and the individual fuse above.

Guess:
constant: Individual and Main?

switched: Lamps, Signals, Ignition?

Can I do the 3 on this block and just mount single spade fuses on the other 2?
 
Which other two? Do you mean the other two fuse blocks that are on your bike already?

It is possible I would say but you don't have a lot of real estate to work with. If yours is set up like mine (fuse block mounted to air box), the fuse block and wiring coming off of it will take up a lot of space. I recommend going with a single box (did you read through all of my thread?) with three fuse areas joined together or maybe with something like the fuse block from Eastern Beaver.
 
I guess I am confused. The previous post by Steve stated I purchased a 1 bus Fuse block and that I need 2.

My thought was let the two constant power be individual and throw the 3 switch on fuses into this block.

I read the Colorado Springs thread start to finish. I am just brand new to electrical on a motorcycle and am lost with this fuse box.
 
Could I let the individual fuse above my fuse box stay.. place the 3 fuses that are switch on type in the fuse block and put an inline fuse on the 2nd constant power?
 
It could work yes but know that individual fuse that's already on your bike is an accessory one. You'll have to rewire where you put your main wire that feeds the ignition switch someplace.

In my opinion, using one block will make it easier to troubleshoot for both you and future owners.
 
JStones said:
I guess I am confused. The previous post by Steve stated I purchased a 1 bus Fuse block and that I need 2.
Click to expand...
That is ... well ... sort of correct.

There are two groups of circuits already on your current (stock) fuse panel. Very few people actually use the AUX fuse, and it would really be better if it is switched, so do the simple re-wiring I suggested above.

But, just in case it was a bit confusing, here is a step-by-step:
1. Disconnect lead at battery
2. Remove current fuse panel.
3. Install new fuse panel.
4. Locate RED wire that feeds fuse panel from battery or starter solenoid.
5. Cut red wire at fuse panel.
6. Locate RED wire that goes from fuse panel to ignition switch.
7. Cut red wire at fuse panel.
8. Install in-line fuse (5 amp) between the two red wires.
9. Locate ORANGE wire that comes back from the ignition switch to the fuse panel.
10. Connect orange wire to terminal #86 of a relay.
11. Connect a ground wire to terminal #85 of the relay.
12. Connect wire (minimum 12-gauge) from battery (or solenoid) to relay terminal #30, using a 15 amp fuse.
13. Connect wire (again 12-gauge) from relay terminal #87 to the input of your new fuse panel.
14. Connect the three remaining orange wires (with different colored stripes) to three of the fuse positions in the new panel.
15. Connect anything else you want to the other three positions (or just use them to hold spare fuses).
16. Reconnect battery lead.
17. Go for a ride.

Cowboyup mentioned another fuse panel. If you can afford it ($80), click HERE to see it.
It shows as only $60, but it's another $20 (or more) for the relay and harness.
If you want to do your own relay and harness, you can save that, then spend almost that much to do it yourself.

.
 
Perfect. Ill get it done and post pictures to close out the thread. Thank you kind sir.
 
salty_monk said:
This one is also well thought of http://www.fuzeblocks.com/
Click to expand...
That one has the advantage of having the relay built in and the option whether each individual circuit is "always live" or switched, but has only 6 fuses.

Yeah, that's more than we have now, but some of us :rolleyes: run more than stripped-down bikes.

Sorry, I like my FARKLES. :p

Don't know what a FARKLE is?

F ancy
A ccessory,
R eally
K ool, (or is that K ewl ?)
L ikely
E xpensive.

:D
 
what other things do you guys like to add to these fuse boxes? 12 Volt outlet?
 
JStones said:
what other things do you guys like to add to these fuse boxes? 12 Volt outlet?
Click to expand...
I have a 12 volt outlet, XM radio, CB radio/intercom, GPS and a couple extra lights. :eek:

Yeah, that's on my 850. :-k

The Wing includes the cappucino machine, microwave, heated and massaging La-Z-Boy recliner and all the other typical 'Wing stuff'. :p

.
 
A KLR is nothing without at least 50 farkles & mods. ;) Mine had 95+ and thought of cooking up a few more to break the 100 but got lazy (lazier?)

Have you done Bill Watson's thermostat by-pass?

Norm



salty_monk said:
I have a KLR... with plenty of Farkles thanks ;) :D
Click to expand...
 
Separate thought:

Dig out your voltmeter and use it to check the voltage drop at each fuse in the fuse box. With key on and circuit active (i.e. headlight switch on), place one meter lead onto the fuse clip and the other lead onto the fuse end cap at that end. Voltage should be zero which I mean to be less than 1/10 volt. Check the other fuse end in the same manner and move to the next fuse. Any voltage drop at a fuse is the sign of a poor connection which means impending heat and failure. Catch them early before there's a melted fuse box or fried fuse.

You can do the same thing by checking for a voltage drop between the two parts of a bullet connector, etc.

HIH

Norm
 
Normk said:
Separate thought:

Dig out your voltmeter and use it to check the voltage drop at each fuse in the fuse box. With key on and circuit active (i.e. headlight switch on), place one meter lead onto the fuse clip and the other lead onto the fuse end cap at that end. Voltage should be zero which I mean to be less than 1/10 volt. Check the other fuse end in the same manner and move to the next fuse. Any voltage drop at a fuse is the sign of a poor connection which means impending heat and failure. Catch them early before there's a melted fuse box or fried fuse.

You can do the same thing by checking for a voltage drop between the two parts of a bullet connector, etc.

HIH

Norm
Click to expand...

Do you have a picture to help me know where the leads go? Sometimes I need visual assistance.
 
The leads just need to touch, one lead to the clip and the other to the metal end cap of the fuse on the same end.

The meter is "looking" for a voltage between the to leads. In this case it will be the connection between the fuse clip and its end cap. There should be zero volts shown or milli/micro-volts.

Here is a photo which I hope is useful:


I'm hoping that you can see that the meter leads touch the brass connector with one and the fuse end cap with the other.

Norm
 
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