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Fzr1000 Genesis 2nd gear

thebrandonbeezy

thebrandonbeezy

Forum Mentor
So i picked up a 93 fizzer that is stuck in second gear. I know theres obviously going to be major internal trans damage. In my reserch ive found that the yzf 750 6 speed will swap in almost directly or completely directly. My question is, has anyone on this wonderful forum of amazing-ness had any experience doing so? I see on the yammie forums all the time "it can be done" "its been done dozens of times" "heres my fzr1k ex-up with the yzf 6 speed swap, i love the way it pulls with it (posts picture of the side of the bike) " also ive been waiting for almost a week to be able to post on fzronline and the yamahaforum. So i figured the gs sight gets good traffic, those guys know a thing or two, ill ask them. Haha

I paid 200 for this thing with a title and it runs like a top. So long as you hold the clutch in.
 
Normally when a gearbox gets damaged it's the dogs getting mangled and the bike jumps OUT of gear rather than being stuck IN gear.

I'd be looking at the selector drum / shaft behind the clutch basket first of all to see if it's something getting stuck there. You might find you don't need to split the cases after all.
 
YZF750's are very few and far between....about 25 to 1 compared to the 1000.....
I had a 95 750 for a short while, and sold it after I got a title for it. Was going to pull the motor and put a Yamaha snowmobile motor in it.
A friend at work made me an offer, and saved me a lot of work.
I would definitely pull the clutch cover off and have a look before you put too much thought into it. The selector ratchet, or something possibly simple could be the problem.....or not....
 
Yes, pull the clutch cover - and clutch - and look at the drum end mechanism first.

Personally i've never done the 6 speed swap but IMO they don't need a 6 speed anyway. If you do have to split the motor, it's a complete strip as you can't simply drop off the lower case. There are case bolts under the cylinder barrel...
 
GregT said:
Yes, pull the clutch cover - and clutch - and look at the drum end mechanism first.

Personally i've never done the 6 speed swap but IMO they don't need a 6 speed anyway. If you do have to split the motor, it's a complete strip as you can't simply drop off the lower case. There are case bolts under the cylinder barrel...
Click to expand...

Thats what ive heard unfortunately. For now the bike is on the back burner till i finish my gs1000. (So close!) So maybe 2 or 3 months ill dig it outand mess with it. When do start it it ****es oil out of the hole where the shifter comes out of the block so that sucks
 
busa1300 said:
YZF750's are very few and far between....about 25 to 1 compared to the 1000.....
I had a 95 750 for a short while, and sold it after I got a title for it. Was going to pull the motor and put a Yamaha snowmobile motor in it.
A friend at work made me an offer, and saved me a lot of work.
I would definitely pull the clutch cover off and have a look before you put too much thought into it. The selector ratchet, or something possibly simple could be the problem.....or not....
Click to expand...

Only reason i wanted a 6 speed is i heard its a lot stronger than the 5 speed and won't have the disappearing second gear lol
 


What ever is broken is broken behind the clutch basket. The clutch looks new and the basket has no wear on it.. for 48k miles this thing has been well kept mechanically.. newer calipers and the brake fluid is crystal clear, had a brand new tire on it on the front. Just the nose fairing is beat to crap, shame. Anyways tomorrow im bringing bigger sockets and gonna get the basket off, and see whats what
 
thebrandonbeezy said:
Only reason i wanted a 6 speed is i heard its a lot stronger than the 5 speed and won't have the disappearing second gear lol
Click to expand...

If what I've seen from others and the trans on my yzf, it always sounds like shifting a tractor. I'm curious to see how it looks too. I'll be doing a new clutch set and oil pan gasket in a few days. (I'm almost sure we have the same-ish engine.)
 
Rekon why Yammer wouldn't address this known problem for 20 + yrs. Or have they fixed it yet? Go figure.
 
Oldman99 said:
If what I've seen from others and the trans on my yzf, it always sounds like shifting a tractor. I'm curious to see how it looks too. I'll be doing a new clutch set and oil pan gasket in a few days. (I'm almost sure we have the same-ish engine.)
Click to expand...

Youre engine is the same except cam profiles are aimed at midrange carbs are a tad different and i believe the ignition was different
 
Its definitely something in the shift mechanism though
found this clip out of place behind the clutch basket. Still haven't removed the basket yet, need to buy that socket
 
thebrandonbeezy said:
Throwing the chain will bend the clutch pushrod??
Click to expand...

Yes, They could not have aimed the chain path any better for the rod if they tried. Be sure to check your chain size if it needs a new one. Might have came with a 532 and they are getting harder and harder to find for anything under $250.
Arrow points to push rod.

16684398_604tunh51_4511361982120843537_n_zpspgiabiwy.jpg
 
thebrandonbeezy said:
Its definitely something in the shift mechanism though
found this clip out of place behind the clutch basket. Still haven't removed the basket yet, need to buy that socket
Click to expand...

I can only find 1 spring like that.
I've never been good with transmissions, but from what I did find. Broken "torsion springs" are consistent with not shifting properly.
http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1993-yamaha-fzr1000-fzr1000e-shift-cam-fork/o/m146464sch132853

4630_31_zpskzs5n3if.jpg


Found this on an xj site.
Couldn't get her out of (whichever gear you were in when the problem occurred).

This situation can be caused wither by a broken TENSION SPRING (the small linear-acting spring) or by the TORSION SPRING (the one with one straight arm and one "hooked" arm). Both of these springs are designed to keep the pawl arm properly engaged with the shifter drum "star wheel" segment. Note there is also a long SCREW which retains this star wheel to the shifter drum; if that screw is loose, it will allow the star wheel to rock back and forth or not even engage with the drum, also resulting in the same type of issue.
 
I wish it were that spring, but i got in there with my bore scope from underneath and can see that one clearly undamaged.. we'll find out soon though
 
Oldman99 said:
Yes, They could not have aimed the chain path any better for the rod if they tried. Be sure to check your chain size if it needs a new one. Might have came with a 532 and they are getting harder and harder to find for anything under $250.
Arrow points to push rod.

16684398_604tunh51_4511361982120843537_n_zpspgiabiwy.jpg
Click to expand...

Well just figured out what broke the bike.. threw a chain.. the shift rod that is below the sprocket has some scaring on it and tons of up and down slop also pours oil out when you run the bike. Secondly the cover is broken in several places
 
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