Gas Gauge not working on GS1000G

[Mickeymoe]

Forgive me if this topic has been discussed before and my search turned up no results. I'm getting around to fixing the the small things on my list and am looking into the gas gauge not working on the GS1000G I bought this season. I've checked the connectors on the wires from the sending unit and they are properly crimped electrically. When I put an ohm meter across the terminals I get no reading however, so I'm thinking the variable resistor (if there is one) in the float system is open. The wires going to the bike do provide a reasonable resistance reading.

Anyone have experience going after this issue before I replace the whole unit? I don't think it's a float problem because I would get some type of resistance reading across the two wires if it was.

BTW, the owner pointed this out when I bought the bike. He suggested it was "common".

Mark

 

[TxGSrider]

I dunno, mine shows "Past full" when its full and "3/4 full" when I am empty... I replaced the sender and it does the EXACT same thing. So if someone has the answers on what to check, I'd be interested too.

 

[Mickeymoe]

I dunno, mine shows "Past full" when its full and "3/4 full" when I am empty... I replaced the sender and it does the EXACT same thing. So if someone has the answers on what to check, I'd be interested too.

Interesting you should say that. When the guy described the gas gauge issue he said..."and the gas gauge as you know says "FULL" when you start the bike and then drops to "EMPTY". (Which it doesn't, it just doesn't work) But maybe it started failing the way yours did. I'm going to try and look for an OEM setup but it won't be cheap. Hope some other forum members chime in..

 

[Steve]

For a quick check to see whether the problem is in the tank or in the gauge, find the connectors that the tank plugs into. Turn the bike ON, connect the two wires on the bike side of the connection (not the tank side), you should see the gauge go from Empty to Full. If it does, the problem is with your float.

Yes, it is rather common for the resistance to go funky, especially after 30+ years.
Click on THIS LINK to see a very good tutorial with pictures that shows how to fix the sending unit.

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[850GT_Rider]

What year GS1000?

(If you put that in your signature, it'll help us help you, without asking for that info)

 

[Steve]

What year GS1000?

(If you put that in your signature, it'll help us help you, without asking for that info)

I agree about putting it in his sig, but it can only be an '80 or an '81, and they were virtually identical.

.

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[TxGSrider]

Don't want to hijack the thread, but is there a way to "zero" the gauge in the instrument cluster? Because now that I think about it, when I put the tank back on the other day I forgot to hook the leads back up and it still showed I had over 1/2 tank.

 

[Mickeymoe]

The bike is a 1980 GS1000G. I just added the info to my signature, we'll see if it shows up with this post. Good idea about isolating the gauge, but I'm pretty sure it's the sending unit because it measured "open" or "infinite ohms" with the DVM...

 

[850GT_Rider]

I agree about putting it in his sig, but it can only be an '80 or an '81, and they were virtually identical.

Duh. Yeah - I missed the G suffix.

 

[chuck hahn]

As I have stated before, I use HALF the fuel of what the manual says is the capacity and see where the needle settles in relation to the half tank mark. if it read higher than half then you bend the float arm up..if low then bend down. Its just like bending the arm in a toilet tank so you get the water level you want...except your bending the arm to get the needle to settle real close to half tank mark. This may require draining off the gas and taking the sending unit it a few times to get it good. But its worth having a reasonably true reading gauge at the end.

 

[Steve]

We all have different preferences where we like our gauges to be "accurate".

I have heard that the FAA (Federal Aviation Association) requires aircraft fuel gauges to be accurate at ONE point: EMPTY.

I modify that just a bit. I like my gauge to be crossing from the white area to the red area as it goes onto REServe.
To achieve that, I run a fuel line from the petcock to a bucket and apply some vacuum so the fuel flows. When the fuel stops flowing, I check the gauge and bend the float as necessary. You can turn the petcock to REServe (and apply vacuum) or to PRIme to finish draining the tank and observe that the gauge continues to drop. You can then see just how much farther it does drop before TRUE empty.

It's a bit fiddly and time consuming (unless you get REAL lucky), but bending the float arm is the way to get the accuracy you want.

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[Mickeymoe]

That's a good way to calibrate the gauge Steve. As soon as I get mine working, I'll try that. BTW, what's the story with the gasket (there has to be one) between the sending unit and the tank? If I take the unit out of the tank to check it out or replace it, is an OEM gasket available? You talked about tweaking the float arm a few times. Does the gasket allow for R&R several times and still keep its integrity?

Mark

 

[Nessism]

On my first 1000S the oil temp gauge was broken which I traced to a fractured bimetallic device inside the gauge itself. Apparently these are somewhat fragile. I bought a fuel gauge from another GS model and transplanted the bimetallic device into my gauge to resolve the issue. I'm not sure if the gauge problem discussed in this thread could be the same reason but it's worth a look at the gauge itself to be sure.

 

[jsandidge]

That's a good way to calibrate the gauge Steve. As soon as I get mine working, I'll try that. BTW, what's the story with the gasket (there has to be one) between the sending unit and the tank? If I take the unit out of the tank to check it out or replace it, is an OEM gasket available? You talked about tweaking the float arm a few times. Does the gasket allow for R&R several times and still keep its integrity?

Mark

I just ordered the gasket for my 850L. Unless it is cracked like mine was, it is re-usable since it is rubber.

 

[chuck hahn]

I took his post to mean its working but not reading with any degree of accuracy. Myself, I dont give a crap about what FAA protocol is because its a motorcyle..that and I like reasonably realistic information when i look down at the dash.

 

[Mickeymoe]

I took his post to mean its working but not reading with any degree of accuracy. Myself, I dont give a crap about what FAA protocol is because its a motorcyle..that and I like reasonably realistic information when i look down at the dash.

Nah, the seller gave me a line of crap about the gauge just being wacky and since there were so many important things to check on the bike I forgot all about it. It doesn't work at all. He only lied about two things as far as I can see and neither of them were show stoppers. I've been all through the bike and haven't found anything wrong except for a "creak" in the front forks when I move the handlebars with the bike stopped. He said "he" put progressive springs in the fork tubes so I should really check his work. I should add that the bike has an aftermarket fork brace which could be the creaking culprit.

 

[Steve]

Myself, I dont give a crap about what FAA protocol is because its a motorcyle..that and I like reasonably realistic information when i look down at the dash.

I like reasonably realistic information, too, but my point was that even in something as complex and important at the 747 that carries hundreds of people, accuracy of the fuel gauge is only mandated at ONE point. There is no requirement for accuracy anywhere else, which I find amusing.

As I mentioned in post #11, we all have different preferences. Since "half a tank" really has no significance to the operation of the bike, I choose the point where something has to be done: switch to REServe as my calibration point. My bike, my choice. :-\\\

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[jsandidge]

I like reasonably realistic information, too, but my point was that even in something as complex and important at the 747 that carries hundreds of people, accuracy of the fuel gauge is only mandated at ONE point. There is no requirement for accuracy anywhere else, which I find amusing.

As I mentioned in post #11, we all have different preferences. Since "half a tank" really has no significance to the operation of the bike, I choose the point where something has to be done: switch to REServe as my calibration point. My bike, my choice. :-\\\

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I prefer the the gauge to be calibrated where it hits red just as I need to switch to reserve also. Luckily for me, that's how it was when I got it.

 

[chuck hahn]

Steve...I use the half tank method because thats a very specific mark on the gauge. The needle either point at the half mark or it shows which way the arm is off in relatonship to the half mark. Just a reliable "known" point for when I adjust the readings.

But yes on the planes..knowing exact where E is makes a helllz of a difference...LOL

 

[JTGS850GL]

If the gauge reads nothing, as in empty, then do the quick trouble shoot that's been stated. Take the two wires that go into the harness from the fuel gauge and short them together. The gauge should go to full or even higher. If that happens then you know the gauge and harness are good. Drop the tank and verify that the wires going to the level sensor are connected and have clean connections. Reading open on the sensor does seem to indicate a bad sensor or could just be a broken wire. If it turns out to be a bad sensor then pop it out and see if it's the winding on the sensor or the sweep may just not be making contact. These sensors can usually be fixed by cleaning up the sweep area and making sure the sweep arm is making good contact with the windings.