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Gasgacinch

  • Thread starter Thread starter 4cyl h2
  • Start date Start date
4

4cyl h2

Guest
How long to let this stuff dry between coats. And mostly how long can the parts sit after coating before assembly
 
It was years ago but i remember using 3 coats, letting it dry completely before adding the next coat which would take 30 minutes or so.
Apparently it could be used up to a day later but we would put the gasket it place, bolt it down and then torque to spec the next day.
A foggy recall on my part.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TTDN8?psc=1
 
Isn't that the one that put an engine together, removed all the bolts and ran it flat out at Bonneville or someplace to prove how well it holds parts together?
 
I put every base & head gasket on with 2 coats on all surfaces, head, block, upper case half base gasket surface & both sides of each gasket. About 15-20 minutes between coats to dry. Makes it fun to get apart after its done correctly! I have NEVER had one leak when done this way.
Ray.
 
Makes it fun to get apart after its done correctly!

Ray, I can believe they never leak, but are you being sarcastic, or facetious, or honest about taking them apart? I would have thought they wouldn't ever come apart again.
 
Hylomar...Hylomar.....Hylomar......

Specifically Hylomar Blue:

http://www.hylomarsealant.com/_resources/_html/products.html

It seals fantastically, and even years later, you can simply slide a thumbnail under the gasket and it peels right off the mating surface. For those who balk at the price, unless you build engines for a living, a 3 oz tube will last for years. It is enough to do dozens of valve cover-sized gaskets.

Indy Car race teams use it (Racing Formula). Military jet engine mechanics use it (Blue). Either works just fine on 35 year old motorcycle engines.
 
Wot 'e sed ^^^^
Been using it for years and never had a Hylomar joint fail.
As always, restraint is the key, but compared to RTV it's difficult to put far too much Hylomar on a joint.
I'm a fan of RTV too, but learned early on how much was enough. Unfortunately, many others never did...
 
I like the artwork.

61YD8lO8tmL._SL1000_.jpg
 
I have used Hylomar & had leaks that were FIXED by using Gasgacinch the way I previously described.
Ray.
 
Ray, I can believe they never leak, but are you being sarcastic, or facetious, or honest about taking them apart? I would have thought they wouldn't ever come apart again.

I have had to PRY them apart before after gluing them with Gasgacinch!!!
Ray.
 
I like the artwork.

61YD8lO8tmL._SL1000_.jpg

I'm using this stuff next time just because of the can. Any product that thumbs it's nose at the modern political correctness ninnies is okay in my book.

Scratching my head about what is going on in the illustration? Did the dude in the car eject her after she served her purpose?:p Or maybe she is just blown away by that guys speed?:onthego:
 
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When you have a leak-free engine, you don't need women.
 
Gasgacinch was first used in the aviation market, I used it religiously for about 25 yrs. Apply it to the gasket and let dry and do the same to the crankcase or cover and let it dry approx. 5 mins. or so.. I only do one side with good results. Usually the cover so I can remove and replace it if nesc. It sticks and keeps the bolt holes aligned.
 
Gasket material is now MUCH better than it used to be. The last engine I used Gasgacinch on was a Ural that still used paper gaskets and less than precise machining.
 
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