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Thanks for your work on this, Rudy. Very cool!!:clap:
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i second that. am looking forward to fitting them :dancing:Thanks for your work on this, Rudy. Very cool!!:clap:
so what are the choices regarding logo's or lettering on the faces, or do we hve to pm you a pic of what we want?
just looking at my clock faces to decide what to have on them and noticed on your pic of the faces the tacho goes up to 12k and the speedo in mph goes to 160. on my clocks the tacho only goes upto 11k and the speedo only goes upto 140. will this create a problem?
thats cool, was thinking of just a black suzuki "s" in the face but i will let you know before i place a definate order.Speedo is the same, I've just added an extra few notches for fun. Tach is a little different though.... 6 grand should be right deadnuts 12 o'clock. No worries though, I can change it to be like what you have.
Received the price for the faces just seconds ago. $30 for the complete set (admittedly a little more than my original guestimate, but still not bad), two faces and the fuel gauge face. So, for that and whatever shipping is, you guys can have em.
So who's in for round one? Would love to get an order out by the end of this week.
Rudy
There's a few different ways that I know of. You can try to get the bezel off of the bucket without damaging it, or, you can do it the way I did.
This seems a little bit of a butcher way of doing things, but is surprisingly easy. I read about it on the GSR here somewhere. Don't remember who posted it, so I'm not taking the credit on this one.
Ok, first you take everything off your clocks that comes off. Buckets, lights, wiring, trip reset knob, isolators and things. Then you get a marker. Mark a line down the side of the clock from just under the face, to the bottom. This is so you can line it back up after and get it right. Also mark to and bottom with a "T" for tach, and "S" for speedo.
Pull out your drill press, put a decent size THIN cutting disc from your Dremel in it on low speed, set the height off the table to just below the bezel (about 1/8 - 1/4", with the gauge face down on the table) and cut the plastic bucket all the way around to cut just the front face off. You can glue it back together with super glue, or whatever you'd like when you're done. The little bit of depth you take off won't really matter too much in the grand scheme of things, just don't go using a 3/16" grinder cut off wheel. The key here is to use a THIN wheel. Take as little plastic out as possible. Open up, and enjoy!
Lots of people have had to open their clocks already because the two mounting screws for the face have come out and the face just rotates around freely. This is why I cut mine open, and now it's evolved into making new faces. If you don't want to open them up again, I'd suggest some thread lock on them little screws when it all goes back together.
If anyone has another (or easier) way of doing this, please, post it up here for everyone.
Edit:Forgot to mention, when you take the needle off, lift the needle past the stop and mark where it rests on the gauge face. This will help you put it back in the right spot after you put the new faces on. Some guys say that a fork works quite well for prying the needle off. Just don't break the needles, they're probably really brittle and will break easily (Don't ask how I know. Yeah, BOTH of them! So stay tuned for when I offer replacement needles too
).
Rudy
wow 30 bucks is a joke man that is a pittance to pay for readable pretty dials.
Of course my wrected low pridcution 83 has oddball everything including the dial faces .. Mine were backlit through the dial face which is semi transparent.
If i was to measure mine up? and so one could you still get these made?
interesting to see this growing. i'm definitally up for it, i'll have to measure the clocks on mine, they are actually from a 550.. also, would it be possible to have a face made that stops at 85mph? my speedo stops at 85, and i'm concerned that it wouldn't display properly with the higher top speed.
Rudy I want you to know that this is a turning point in my GS life. A week ago I was thinking of selling it. You have breathed new life in to the project. I'm in for a set! By the way thanks for the advice on opening my gauges. I had heard of that method before but hoped there was an easier way. I am in the military so not lots of room for that drill press I have yet to purchase. I think that the base hobby shop has one I could use though.
yep, tach is the same. i'm gonna print it out and overlay it tommorow. i'm gonna bet that the screw holes are the same, but i'm not sure that the diameters stayed the same. i'll also re-measure the diameter with a finer incremented insturment to be sure. i'll re-edit this post if anything changes. I really appreciate you whipping this up, by the way!Well, here it is. Not all finished up, but just thought I would post so you could check. Put the measurements you gave me in there in red and the ones of the originals of mine in white. Can't hurt to be sure. Is your tach the same as the one I've posted already?
yep, tach is the same. i'm gonna print it out and overlay it tommorow. i'm gonna bet that the screw holes are the same, but i'm not sure that the diameters stayed the same. i'll also re-measure the diameter with a finer incremented insturment to be sure. i'll re-edit this post if anything changes. I really appreciate you whipping this up, by the way!