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Getting a new stator...who to go with?

  • Thread starter Thread starter makenzie71
  • Start date Start date
makenzie71 said:
The stator actually passes dead checks. I can't test it while the bike is running because the damn thing has too screwed up an EM field...I can't get a meter within a foot of the stator while it's running or the read out goes ape****.
Click to expand...
That sounds like a heck of a lot of arcing going on in your stator. arcing is the only thing that I know of that would put out wide band rf.
 
For stators, I think that OEM, Rick's, Electrosport, etc.... all will work fine for years if they are wired correctly and the reg/rec is in good working order. The original stator on my 700 lasted over 50,000 miles, and I believe it fried because I was riding around for who knows how long on a bad reg/rec and had loose connections all through my wiring harness. I hate to admit it, but other than replacing a starter solenoid once and the battery periodically, I did nothing to my bike electrically for about twelve years and 50,000 miles. I figured if it wasn't broke, why mess with it?

When it finally did break, I didn't have the know-how to fix it, and couldn't find a shop willing to work on it. It sat for several years until I found this site.

I've used Ricks, Electrosport, and scavenged Honda reg/recs, and had good luck with all. I have to say that I prefer the Honda units with the sensing wire (which I wire into my oil pressure sensing wire), but all will work fine. Bad individual units probably exist for each brand, but that is more dependant upon luck and quality control than design limitations.
 
I believe Duanage stated not long ago that he has never seen a bad Honda regulator/rectifier, and he's seen more than anyone else, probably over a hundred. They were made by Shindengen and are outstanding quality.

I've also seen Shindengen R/Rs on some Kawasakis. FWIW. YMMV.
 
rustybronco said:
That sounds like a heck of a lot of arcing going on in your stator. arcing is the only thing that I know of that would put out wide band rf.
Click to expand...

I'm still trying to figure out why the meter freaks out, but I'm no expert in EMF.
 
bwringer said:
I believe Duanage stated not long ago that he has never seen a bad Honda regulator/rectifier, and he's seen more than anyone else, probably over a hundred. They were made by Shindengen and are outstanding quality.

I've also seen Shindengen R/Rs on some Kawasakis. FWIW. YMMV.
Click to expand...

Not doubting that the Shindengen RRs are good quality (I agree and like them myself), but one thing about the way Duaneage and the rest of us acquire them is that we buy them used and generally they come off of running bikes that have been parted out. It seems logical to me that any bad ones were probably discovered by the original buyer and replaced under warranty, or just pitched in the garbage.

Just sayin'......
 
4 different meters. I don't have a really good meter, but our $3400 meter at work goes nuts as well. It's got an em field like I've never seen. I'm somewhat tempted to pull her out and re-epoxy the thing to see if it's just arcing/grounding.
 
makenzie71 said:
4 different meters. I don't have a really good meter, but our $3400 meter at work goes nuts as well. It's got an em field like I've never seen. I'm somewhat tempted to pull her out and re-epoxy the thing to see if it's just arcing/grounding.
Click to expand...
If it's not the meter you've got a real problem. It's not a bad idea to pull it out and see wtf is going on. You've gotta' start with a good stator to get anywhere.
 
108 Honda RRs sold so far, haven't seen a bad one yet. People have hooked them up completely wrong and they still worked afterwards. Tough little buggers.

If you are losing 3 volts from the Fuse box to the rear brake light switch, you really should find out why and correct it. A drop that far is going to heat up the bad connection a lot and cause problems.
 
duaneage said:
108 Honda RRs sold so far, haven't seen a bad one yet. People have hooked them up completely wrong and they still worked afterwards. Tough little buggers.

If you are losing 3 volts from the Fuse box to the rear brake light switch, you really should find out why and correct it. A drop that far is going to heat up the bad connection a lot and cause problems.
Click to expand...

I have seen one bad one unfortunatly, on the 80 1100E I fixed up. it was on it when I brought it home and the sensor wire was not hooked up. I corrected that and it failed to cut back the voltage and quickly went over 15 volts. a fresh one from the local motorcycle retirement home fixed it up.
I think running it with the sensor wire unhooked fried it. no idea how long it was on there before the owner got it.
 
bwringer said:
I'm still trying to figure out why the meter freaks out, but I'm no expert in EMF.
Click to expand...
Arcing is the only thing I can think of. either at the plugs, coils, wires. but combine that with low charging system voltage... my bet stator.

makenzie71 said:
I found this...thought it might be nice...opinions? Will it fit the 1981 750? I can't find that part number anywhere...
Click to expand...
opinions? check alpha sports and compare the p/n's.
 
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ha that's a "no". I think I'm going to have to use the alphasports site more...it's a lot better built that bikebandit/ronayers.
 
Well, I got the most feedback from RM so that's who I went with...plus I had a 20% off coupon for eBay and they have an eBay store so I got a discount.

New stator...new r/r...battery follows...and I'm thinking about building a new wiring harness...plus I've got a Dyna III setup laying around I might try and work into it...I'm a little giddy...
 
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