Getting old fork seals out?

[HobzGoblin]

So after some YouTube videos, a few trips to the hardware store, and a stiff drink to settle my nerves, I finally set about the task of changing the fork seals on my 77 gs750.

Things were going according to plan and I was feeling pretty good about my burgeoning mechanical skills when I got to the point of separating the upper and lower forks. Based on what I had seen, I expected that when I pulled the upper fork out, it would have a lower bushing attached that would force the upper bushing and the seal out of the lower fork. But instead of finding my bushings and seal skewered like a kabob before me, the upper fork slid out smoothly. The seal and the "upper" bushing are still in the lower fork and they seem intent on staying there.

So what am I missing here? Does my model not have a bushing on the bottom of the upper fork? And if not, how do I get the old seal out? I've tried prying and pulling it with a screwdriver and pliers, but I'm reluctant to crank on it too much for fear of damaging something?

Any relevant info would be appreciated.

 

[GateKeeper]

Is there a retaining ring that you might not have taken out ?

this will help, not same bike but most are the same way

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/Fork_Seal_Replacement_GS850GT.pdf

 

[HobzGoblin]

View attachment 40211
forgot the pic

 

[GateKeeper]

picture not working

 

[HobzGoblin]

The lower fork and seal

 

[HobzGoblin]

The upper fork

 

[HobzGoblin]

And just for good measure, the rest of the innards.

 

[GateKeeper]

so you need a fork seal removal tool, or you just keep at it with what ever you have and what ever you can use to pry it out, it's in there good so it will take some force to get it out, it's not going to just slip out

this is more or less the order on most bikes

you can make your own tool as well

http://www.bonneville-experiment.com/2010/06/random-tool-of-the-week-for-fork-seals/

.

 

[8ball]

Some earlier model bikes did not have a lower bushing. Don't know specifically about the 77 GS, but don't panic. Look up a parts fiche for your fork. You can find one here: partsfish.com

 

[chuck hahn]

Don't need any "SPECIAL" tools. Just heat the top rim of the lower with a torch and watch the seals edge..it will start to bubble the oil around it. Heat it all the way around and then use a thick flat screw driver to pop them out. Hook just under the inner rim of the seal and lever off the rim of the fork lower..done and done.

 

[Fjbj40]

Don't need any "SPECIAL" tools. Just heat the top rim of the lower with a torch and watch the seals edge..it will start to bubble the oil around it. Heat it all the way around and then use a thick flat screw driver to pop them out. Hook just under the inner rim of the seal and lever off the rim of the fork lower..done and done.

And burn off the clearcoat or paint. A seal puller is not really a "special" tool, it is a tool for pulling seals. It's like $10-15 max, it makes life easier, not to mention it is the right tool for the job!

Personally, if you were working on my bike and heated the lower tube with a torch like you described.......you would be a very unhappy mechanic when I was finished with you!

Here you are talking about working at a bike shop as a new job, is that how you would do it there??

WOW!

 

[GateKeeper]

Only 10 bucks at Canadian Tire probably cheaper or the same at harbor freight

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/seal-puller-0251207p.html#.VXo_0nD3aK0

7 bucks at harbor freight


http://t.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Seal+puller

.

 

[chuck hahn]

Wont burn anything off the top under where the dust boot fits over the rim ( where there isn't any clear coat by the way ) and your not getting it red hot for Christ sakes!!! Use some common sense. And yeah thats how I do it all the time and dont cause any damage . Until you have some experience and an actual working knowledge keep the snarky bullchit to yourself.

 

[chuck hahn]

And for the informational purposes of the heat.... See after 20 years the rubber seals itself super tightly to the tubes. And even with the fancy tools and all the force in the world , they sometimes just refuse to budge. Keep stuffing the tool in..AND OFTEN TOO FAR AT THAT ... and youll dig up the seals seating surfaces and ruin the tube. Heat softens the rubber and lets some of the oil on top of the seals seep in and lube it for some exceptionally EASY removal WITHOUT damage to the seats or the clear ( IF there is even any left on an old fork tube ).Wanna challenge me to a wrench off?? Any day brother..bring it on!!!

 

[Fjbj40]

Wont burn anything off the top under where the dust boot fits over the rim ( where there isn't any clear coat by the way ) and your not getting it red hot for Christ sakes!!! Use some common sense. And yeah thats how I do it all the time and dont cause any damage . Until you have some experience and an actual working knowledge keep the snarky bullchit to yourself.

Grow the **** up chucky! You know absolutely nothing about me and my experience or my qualifications. Do you actually have a registered trade in anything mechanical, I mean certifications? Sure real life experience counts, but if you do not have any standards then you are basically dangerous. PERIOD! One of things about having standards means you know how to use tools correctly.:-\\\

I just looked in my factory service manual, and Haynes manual......nope....nothing about a torch there.

You on the other hand keep giving advice, some of it good and give you credit, some of it bad, as was displayed here.

Rock on dude. You are where you are in life for a reason......

 

[HobzGoblin]

Gentlemen! Calm yourselves. Different theories and strategies, both are appreciated. No need to get so riled up and personal about it.

Or should I add "motorcycles" to my list of subjects to avoid during polite dinner conversation, along with religion and politics?

 

[Fjbj40]

No, no need to add it to the list.

yes, sometimes we do get carried away. Unless you can direct the torch to heat that very small specific area, impossible, don't do it.

Boil a pot of water, lay the offending end of lower tube in there to soften and remove with seal puller. Try it without heat first, you will find it will pop right out with the correct tool.

 

[chuck hahn]

Like I said..never did any damage to one yet in more years than I can count. As for book learning and certifications...most of the "schooled" folks with degrees and wall paper degrees all over the walls are clueless as to what the REAL WORLD is all about. Not calling you out, but throw the manual away ( the Haynes and Clymers ) and go old school. Youll get it done and done without waiting on a package from Motion Pro to show up.

And your right..and your bashing of my methodolgy reflects you know nohting about myself either. Anyone waiting on a degreed person is a damned fool in my opinion.

Go stand and watch guys actually work on peoples bikes in the dealershiups and other shops...bet youd be having a heart attack...LOL. And these are YOUR folks with certifications...LMAO!!!!!!!!!!

 

[hampshirehog]

Sometimes those things are in there so bloody solid , after 30 years in some cases, that you have to burn the buggers out.

I've got a seal puller but never use it; at the leverage point they're too thin and if you need to employ much force you can mess up the top of the tube (some of the old Yamahas in particular were really thin up here and they'll crack long before the seal shifts).

I always start with the big flat screwdriver (big old wooden handle job) then if it doesn't budge apply heat.

 

[Fjbj40]

I only use factory service manuals. I have the scattered Haynes manual, usually for different pictures than the factory manuals, fix by pictures is sometimes handy

I do work on the side, my customers keep me busy, they are also repeat customers only. I choose who I work for because they want my level of work.

I have certifications, multiples actually. I depend on manuals for my livelihood. Without them I am not legally allowed to do my profession, so I apply that in all my mechanical ventures.

EVERY trade/profession has good and bad techs. The trick is to find them and keep using them, if you do use them. I tell people, do you go to a different doctor every time you feel sick? Well, find a good mechanic and keep using them, they eventually will know what level of competency you expect and usually will deliver it.

I teach at a college now, for the last three years MY students have won the National Skills Competition, gold for 2 years, this year silver. We have one of our grads going to the World Skills in Brazil this year. We have one of the best reputations in Canada in our trade among employers.

Your opinion of professionals is YOUR opinion, sometimes I also share it, but not all are bad.