Getting ready for valve adjustment, stator & RR replacement

[skiracer]

I'm preparing for some work on my 1980 GS850GLT.

The first part will be replacing the stator and the RR with components from Electrosport. The stator is shot, but after reading the Stator Papers, I'm thinking I should probably do the RR as well. In the stator replacement walkthrough on Bass Cliff's site (what a resource, btw!), the author mentions replacing both the crank case cover philips head bolts and the internal philips head screws with their hex head equivalent. I did see info in another post about how to determine the hex head equivalent, but I'm still not quite sure how do so. Can anyone offer any advice here?

Also, I've read of problems with poor quality gaskets. Does anyone have suggestions on where to get a quality crank case cover gasket? Is it a good idea to replace the starter cover gasket? The author of the walkthrough resused his...

As for the valve adjustment, I've ordered RealGaskets for both the valve cover and breather. Bass Cliff has mentioned that covers on these gaskets should be torqued down to 15 in/lbs. I do not own a torque wrench capable of such a fine measurement. Is there a trick I can use to do this without such a wrench?

At least one of my half moons is also totally shot (leaking considerably), but I've read that the half moons should not be replaced while using a real gasket? Is there a strategy to make this work? Also is there a good preferable place to purchase these from? (I'm already making purchases from Z1 Enterpises but didn't see the half moons there.)

I've also seen various mentions of thread sealer vs thread locker. Are there particular brands I should be using and how can I tell which one to use where?

Any advice anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

-Jon

 

[Nessism]

If you get an impact driver you can save the screws and reuse them. If you want to make the switch to allen head screws, Z1 sells kits or take your old screws to a good hardware store and match up the thread pitch and length. Stainless screws need anti seize so keep this in mind if you go that way.

Stator cover gaskets are low risk, it's the head gasket and base gasket O-rings that give so many people headaches. Just about any stator cover gasket will work or you can even cut your own from gasket paper commonly available at auto parts stores.

For the valve cover gasket I suggest purchasing a low range torque wrench. If you want to chance it, use a small 1/4 inch drive socket wrench and go light on the torque. In either case you want to snug down the screws in steps - only finger tight the first time around and then snug them a little tighter the second time around.

Not sure about the half moons. I have a bag of old ones so if you get stuck send me a PM and I'll mail you a couple.

The stator wire screws need to be loctite so they don't vibrate loose. No need for sealer on threads in general, use either grease or anti seize on the cover screws.

Good luck and hope this helps.

 

[Counter]

I used Loctite Blue on my stator screws. I might need to take it off again. One more small thing. When I took my wires out of the rubber plug that seals the stator cover, I had a heck of a time getting them out. They get stuck pretty well. I used dielectric grease on the new wires to get them through the plug. Oh yes, the hot water trick works well to soften up the plug.

Good luck.

 

[skiracer]

Nessism, thank you for your reply! I've replied below in red.

If you get an impact driver you can save the screws and reuse them. If you want to make the switch to allen head screws, Z1 sells kits or take your old screws to a good hardware store and match up the thread pitch and length. Stainless screws need anti seize so keep this in mind if you go that way.

I found the kit for my bike and may add that to my order...

Stator cover gaskets are low risk, it's the head gasket and base gasket O-rings that give so many people headaches. Just about any stator cover gasket will work or you can even cut your own from gasket paper commonly available at auto parts stores.

The gasket in the walkthrough is metal, rather than paper. I assume there are pros/cons for using either?

For the valve cover gasket I suggest purchasing a low range torque wrench. If you want to chance it, use a small 1/4 inch drive socket wrench and go light on the torque. In either case you want to snug down the screws in steps - only finger tight the first time around and then snug them a little tighter the second time around.

I've read the debates on torque wrenches on the forum and I'm looking into getting a decent inch/lb wrench. The Craftsman wrench is in the right price range, but reviews of it aren't always favorable...

Not sure about the half moons. I have a bag of old ones so if you get stuck send me a PM and I'll mail you a couple.

You can most certainly expect a PM if I get stuck. Thanks!!

The stator wire screws need to be loctite so they don't vibrate loose. No need for sealer on threads in general, use either grease or anti seize on the cover screws.

Should these be Loctite high (red), medium (blue) or low (purple) formula?

Good luck and hope this helps.

 

[skiracer]

I used Loctite Blue on my stator screws. I might need to take it off again. One more small thing. When I took my wires out of the rubber plug that seals the stator cover, I had a heck of a time getting them out. They get stuck pretty well. I used dielectric grease on the new wires to get them through the plug. Oh yes, the hot water trick works well to soften up the plug.

Good luck.

Thanks for the advice! I assume the hot water trick is to just run hot water over the plug?

 

[earlfor]

Thanks for the advice! I assume the hot water trick is to just run hot water over the plug?

Uhhh Yeah. Dont put the bike in the bath tub. LOL

Earl

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. skiracer,

I did not use a metal gasket for my stator cover. I'll have to read that guide to see where I was unclear.

In fact, there are scans of the starter, stator, and ignition cover gaskets on my site so you can use them to make your own gaskets from gasket paper very cheaply.

I don't own a torque wrench either. I can borrow one. Or I can use the "bwringer method". When using a Real Gasket on the valve cover, tighten the bolts down finger tight (as tight as you can get them with your finger), then use a 1/4" socket to tighten them another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. That's it, any more and you risk splitting the gasket. Watch the gasket as you tighten and don't let it squish out too much. I use the white Loctite thread sealer (NOT thread locker) on the valve cover bolts and stator cover bolts. Check them again after about 100 miles and snug them up if necessary. (I will get a torque wrench eventually.)

Inside the stator cover, to hold the stator, etc, I use the red loctite. I've replaced my stator twice. The next time I'll have to order a couple of screws because I boogered them up. But I'm getting better with my cheap impact driver.

Use a little gasket sealer only on the curved part of the half moons, NOT on the top (straight) part. You may want to take a rubber mallet or small hammer and lightly tap the half moons in snug before you apply the gasket (apply the Real Gaskets DRY). Sometimes the silicone gasket will not push the half moons all the way down and you'll get a leak.

I got my hex head case bolts from Z1. They worked out great. Except for the Real Gaskets, I get OEM gaskets and half moons from one of my favorite online vendors, or sometimes even let my local dealership order them.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Bert Patterson]

Bass Cliff has mentioned that covers on these gaskets should be torqued down to 15 in/lbs. I do not own a torque wrench capable of such a fine measurement. Is there a trick I can use to do this without such a wrench?

I have a Park Tool in/lb torque wrench that I bought from Performance Bicycle. It was about $35 and works great.

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/TopCategories_10052_10551_-1

They have two and I'm not sure which one mine is.

 

[skiracer]

Uhhh Yeah. Dont put the bike in the bath tub. LOL

Earl

But the Bike's already in the tub... you mean I didn't have to go through all the work of getting it up a flight of stairs and into the bathroom? haha

 

[skiracer]

Thank you for all the info BassCliff Big quote, so I replied below in red...

Hi Mr. skiracer,

I did not use a metal gasket for my stator cover. I'll have to read that guide to see where I was unclear.

Maybe the metal shown on the first page is a stencil? I imagine it's easy enough to make my own gasket from gasket paper if I have the stencil from your site.

In fact, there are scans of the starter, stator, and ignition cover gaskets on my site so you can use them to make your own gaskets from gasket paper very cheaply.

I don't own a torque wrench either. I can borrow one. Or I can use the "bwringer method". When using a Real Gasket on the valve cover, tighten the bolts down finger tight (as tight as you can get them with your finger), then use a 1/4" socket to tighten them another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. That's it, any more and you risk splitting the gasket. Watch the gasket as you tighten and don't let it squish out too much. I use the white Loctite thread sealer (NOT thread locker) on the valve cover bolts and stator cover bolts. Check them again after about 100 miles and snug them up if necessary. (I will get a torque wrench eventually.)

I'll be looking into the torque wrench mentioned by Bert Patterson below. Thanks Bert! If I don't get it in time, the method you've described seems simple to follow. I'll need to get myself an assortment of Loctite thread sealer/lockers to meet the needs of all the bolts/screws on the bike!

Inside the stator cover, to hold the stator, etc, I use the red loctite. I've replaced my stator twice. The next time I'll have to order a couple of screws because I boogered them up. But I'm getting better with my cheap impact driver.

I have an OK impact driver, we'll see how it goes... Counter said below that he used Blue Loctite rather than Red on the interior stator screws. It sounds as though you've had a hard time getting the screws back out after using Red? Maybe Blue is the way to go?

Use a little gasket sealer only on the curved part of the half moons, NOT on the top (straight) part. You may want to take a rubber mallet or small hammer and lightly tap the half moons in snug before you apply the gasket (apply the Real Gaskets DRY). Sometimes the silicone gasket will not push the half moons all the way down and you'll get a leak.

I'll look around again for the half moons and some gasket sealer to go with them. I'm glad I can tap in the half moons with a rubber mallet. I didn't want to have to install a metal gasket to get them to seat right.

I got my hex head case bolts from Z1. They worked out great. Except for the Real Gaskets, I get OEM gaskets and half moons from one of my favorite online vendors, or sometimes even let my local dealership order them.

For the hex head case bolts you used thread sealer. I've heard other's mention (Nessisum in this thread and elsewhere) that with the stainless steel bolts I should use anti seize. A quick Google seems to show that Loctite White is in fact anti seize. Can you confirm this? (Please excuse my ignorance! )

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff