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Getting the bolt that holds the shifter on????

  • Thread starter Thread starter rombi
  • Start date Start date
R

rombi

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I need to get at the front sprocket and I am having a hard time getting that little 10mm or 9mm bolt that holds the shifter to the splined shaft loose to get the shifter off. Any of you GS experts know what to do to get that bolt loose. They did not leave much room there. It looks like the 10 fits but I do not have a 9mm wrench to try tonight. There is not enough room in there to get a good grip on it.
Thanks in advance.
Tom
 
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if its never been taken off you may be in for a ride....

lol
 
I am thinking it is in it's origianal resting spot with years of heat applied. I see trouble ahead for a little bolt. Grinder time?????
 
Bugger!If you can't get it out,you could try a hacksaw blade(not in the hacksaw)and cut the bolt.Then drill and re-tap once the lever is off.The bolt is 10mm(6mm thread and 10 mm spanner).Good luck.Cheers,Simon.:idea:
 
On my 850 it is 12 mm. Easy to get at: put a socket on a short extension, to avoid interference from the left food peg.
 
I need to get at the front sprocket and I am having a hard time getting that little 10mm or 9mm bolt that holds the shifter to the splined shaft loose to get the shifter off. Any of you GS experts know what to do to get that bolt loose. They did not leave much room there. It looks like the 10 fits but I do not have a 9mm wrench to try tonight. There is not enough room in there to get a good grip on it.
Thanks in advance.
Tom

What bike?

Some GS's have the gear change lever direct to the shaft others have a remote changer and a short attachement that attaches to the shaft.

The bolt is holding this peice on. The shaft has a recess that the bolt fits into to stop it moving along the shaft. If you cut the head off the gear lever won't come off the bike.

Suzuki mad
 
it is a 650e. There is no way a socket is getting in there. I have a 10mm open end that I can get on it but then there is no room to turn it. If I cut the head off then there is bigger problems. It looks like it was built to not come apart...
 
Bugger!If you can't get it out,you could try a hacksaw blade(not in the hacksaw)and cut the bolt.Then drill and re-tap once the lever is off.The bolt is 10mm(6mm thread and 10 mm spanner).Good luck.Cheers,Simon.:idea:

If I could even get the hack saw blade in there to cut the midle I would. No room for that either.
 
Photo Time.

This doesn't sound right. You should be able to get that bolt out no problems. You have to get at the sprocket.

Suzuki mad.
 
When you have removed the 6mm bolt, replace it with a hex headed one. This way you can use an allen head tool to remove it with whichever end best suits (long or short).
 
Here is a picture of mine, its bigger than yours, M8 with 13mm head!
Aftermarket screw, the OEM was 12mm head.

For the GS 1000G 1980 the part is 01500-06207 shows as replaced 01107-08208. To me that means that the M6 bolt has replaced the M8 one.

If you break the M6 one, it usually breaks just where the thread starts and only the bottom part is threaded. It will definitely be a 10mm for a M6 not a 9mm. you definitely will not get it out if the body of the bolt stays in the slot on the shaft. May have to try spot welding a bar to the top of the bolt if a ring spanner of swivelhead socket cannot take.
 
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it is a 650e. There is no way a socket is getting in there. I have a 10mm open end that I can get on it but then there is no room to turn it. If I cut the head off then there is bigger problems. It looks like it was built to not come apart...



I just did this on my 650e, it can be done. I believe I ended up using my 1/4 inch socket and driver to get at that particular bolt and was able to remove it fit without much trouble. Ended up doing it twice in 3 weeks as the front sprocket I had purchased was incorrect and I didn't notice till I went to install it. :eek:

I actually should go back in with a proper spacer washer, as I rigged another washer to get me working for now, but the inside diameter isn't correct and it could slide around. Need to stop by the hardware store to get a more appropriately sized washer to make it right, then I'll be going in yet another time.. Though the last week has been raining every day so I've been driving the cage.. :mad:

Amos
 
Weird.
What does the Haynes or Clymer recomends as procedures.
We need pics at this point.
 
1) What model and year is it?

2) Show a photo or two.

3) Spray with PB Blaster and let it soak a few hours.

4) Don't do anything rash.
 
I will post a pic when I get home.
It is a 82 650e. I have done this on other bikes but you see what I mean there just isn't any room in front of that bolt. Maybe tonight I will see another option now that the frustation level has dropped and I have a better outlook on it. Thanks for the ideas.
 
I think if you have a cheap wrench 10mm, you could heat the wrench up just about half an inch from the box end so that the tool would face rearward while the box end is on the head of the bolt. To turn the wrench use some needle nose vise grips, You might only get an 1/8 of a turn out of it at a time but it should work. Use "PB breaker, or WD-40" on the bolt, not heat. If you melt the seal behind that linkage you more issue's. Makeing specialty tools help you do what you need and save you from buying them for a high price.
 
Or just use a drimmal tool and cut the linkage off the shaft! You can buy a new one for 21 bucks on (Cycle Parts Nation.com):D
 
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