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Getting the valve cover off

  • Thread starter Thread starter lhanscom
  • Start date Start date
L

lhanscom

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This seems like it should be simple. I have a GS700ES, and need to replace the valve cover seal. I've taken out all the bolts and the valve cover is loose. Thr problem is that I can't seem to get enough distance off the head to clear the chain under the frame. I can't beleive that you have to take the engine out to get the cover off. What's the trick?
 
If it is similar to my 1000, it helps to take off the crankcase breather cover on top. KK.
 
Re: Getting the valve cover off

lhanscom said:
This seems like it should be simple. I have a GS700ES, and need to replace the valve cover seal. I've taken out all the bolts and the valve cover is loose. Thr problem is that I can't seem to get enough distance off the head to clear the chain under the frame. I can't beleive that you have to take the engine out to get the cover off. What's the trick?
Click to expand...

Pull your fuel tank, ignition coils and the rectangle cover off the top of the valve cover(where the breather tube attaches) and you'll have just enough clearance.
 
Seeing as you've never had the cover off you should set your valve clearances.

Steve
 
I've got the cover off, and now I need to know how to check the clearances. What clearance am I checking? Also, the valve cover was leaking a bit, which is why I took it off in the first place, but the seal looks good. It didn't have any type of sealer goup on it, should I put some one and see if it seals? Thanks for all you help
 
valve cover

valve cover

Did this recently and the trick seemed to be getting alot of the wire along the frame pulled up out of the way(after removing the tank and air box). Then I was able to pull the cover back over the carbs where there is a high point in the frame and then out sideways.
Definately a pain in the ass, but it can be accomplished w/o a hammer if you are patient.
sbk
 
These are my assumptions for the GS700 motor (83-85) (if I remember correctly):

You have a rubber valve cover gasket
You have threaded valve adjustments
Your valve cover bolts thread into the cam caps

If these are correct then this is my advice:

The clearance is measured from the top of the valve stem.
Loosen the locknut to adjust the clearance.
Some valve covers remove easier when moved off the back of the motor first.
Apply a thin layer of good gasket sealer to the gasket before reinstallation.
DO NOT overtighten the bolts holding down the valve cover!!! This can break a cam cap and trash your head!!!
 
Your assumptions are correct, and I've successfully done the adjustment. Now I just need to get a gasket, and I'll be off to do the intake, exhaust, and jetting. :D :D :D Life is good.
 
bolt torque spec

bolt torque spec

Hi. I'm a newbie with the same need to change the cam cover gasket on a GS1000GLT . What is the torque spec on the bolts? Also, the old gasket was put on dry from what I can tell, and the seal was fine untill a portion of the gasket kinda "oozed" itself out of place. Are these supposed to go on dry or gooped?

I appreciate having somewhere to go for help. Thanks in advance, joe.

joe.rohaley@ckra.org
 
I think you're supposed to put on a film of sealer on the bottom of the seal, and leave the cover side dry.
 
Valve adjustments.....

Valve adjustments.....

lhanscom said:
Your assumptions are correct, and I've successfully done the adjustment. Now I just need to get a gasket, and I'll be off to do the intake, exhaust, and jetting. :D :D :D Life is good.
Click to expand...
Tell me you used a manual to turn the motor over by hand to get the valves on base circle before you adjusted your valves!
(Maybe stupid question but I want to be sure before you start it up and it clatters like nothing you've heard before.)
Rick........
 
I put the bike in top gear and turned it using the rear wheel, until the lobes were pointed away from the contact of the valve. and checked the clearance there. That is right, right??? :?
 
I have done it that way but I don't know if it is the right way or not. I now take the magneto cover off and line up the crank sensor with the marks. It is also much easier to turn over the engine with a wrench on the crankshaft. That alone makes it worth the energy to take off the cover.

I've also heard that when working on 4valve cylinders you should get the valves within 0.001" of clearance when on the same cam lobe. This will prevent wearing down the internals due to a twisting motion. To do this I make sure the 0.005" guage won't fit and then make sure that the 0.003" goes in without any force. This should set it close to 1 Thousandth of an Inch (since I don't have a 0.004" guage). This is a spec included for different engines than ours, I just do it for fun. 8)

Steve
 
Getting the rockers off the lobes is good enough. You can actually do it with the cams in just two positions. On the right side of the cams you will find a notch in each. Pointing them towards each other lets you set half the valves then turning them away from each other lets you set the other half.
 
Ah, so adjusting them every valve wasn't nessisary? :lol: :lol: :lol:
Gotta love the first time.
 
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