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Give up and go to bolts?

  • Thread starter Thread starter CB900SS
  • Start date Start date
C

CB900SS

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So 4 out of the 5 studs for my oil filter housing on my 1150e are stripped, so I ordered 5 new ones from bikebandit.com,

SL370986.jpg


They all had the same Suzuki part # on the bags, but as you can clearly see the one on the left is longer and the only correct one.

So can anyone give me a good reason why studs are necessary and I shouldn't just go get 5 bolts?

Yes I installed all 5 of them with red loctite before I realized what the issue was. :mad: They came out no problemo.
 
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You can use bolts if you want. The factory used studs because it's easier to get the cover on with them. If bolts are ok for you then use them. Ray.
 
I would prefer to strip a stud again that the hole in the block ..
 
I replaced mine with stainless steel studs from McMaster-Carr.

The stainless is harder than the pressed cheddar cheese used for the Suzuki studs, so it should hold up better.

Bolts are only a temporary measure -- after a few oil changes, the aluminum threads in the cases will get mighty sloppy. Replace them with studs at the next oil change.

http://www.mcmaster.com
 
bwringer said:
I replaced mine with stainless steel studs from McMaster-Carr.

The stainless is harder than the pressed cheddar cheese used for the Suzuki studs, so it should hold up better.

Bolts are only a temporary measure -- after a few oil changes, the aluminum threads in the cases will get mighty sloppy. Replace them with studs at the next oil change.

http://www.mcmaster.com
Click to expand...


not to rain on a parade, but.. stainless bolts/studs/etc.. are only about a grade 2... and have a nasty habit of galling. their only good thing, is that they don't corrode all to heck.

not saying they're not better than the stock studs... just a warning about ss grade :)

-Nate
 
Does anyone know the size of these studs? I am having a hard time sizing them, I can't seem to get the pitch gauge to line up correctly. ?M6?x?x?
 
Standard M6 X 1.0mm threads.
 
bwringer said:
Standard M6 X 1.0mm threads.
Click to expand...

Man I can't seem to confirm M6x1.0, I have a die that size and it doesn't seem to thread onto my new stud.

How about the length? 37.5mm?
Found these at McMaster.

unequalthread.gif

Part Number: 98867A260 $0.52 Each
Material Type
Steel
Finish
Black
Grade/Class
Class 8.8
Type
Unequal Thread Length Studs
Unequal Thread Length Type
Standard
Steel Type
General Purpose Steel
Shank Type
Round
Thread Direction
Right Hand Thread
Metric Thread Size
M6
Metric Thread Pitch
1 mm
Thread Length (A)
18 mm
Thread Length (B)
6.25 mm
Overall Length
37.5 mm
Rockwell Hardness
Minimum C22
Minimum Tensile Strength
115,000 psi
Thread Fit
Class 6g
Specifications Met
Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN)
DIN Specification
DIN 939
 
I know I'll probably get an earfull for this, but here it goes anyway. My opinion is, if you are really that worried about it, drill out the holes in the crank case, and install a Helicoil. From there, you can switch to bolts without worry (as you will now have steel threads in the holes, and need not fear them stripping as easily as aluminum) or just go back to studs, content in the knowledge that it is stronger now than it ever was before.

If you do want to try this, BE WARNED. This solution is not for the faint of heart nor the unsteady of hand/drill, as it can easily turn disasterous. Also, a Helicoil kit usually runs $50-$60 and does not come with the drill bit (it does however tell you EXACTLY what size bit to use, use that size ONLY) or the permenant strength threadlocker that 100% of competant mechanics and parts guys will recomend using.

As for the studs or bolts themselves, just take the old one in to you local CarQuest or NAPA auto parts store or even Ace or True Value hardware stores, and the friendly folks there should be able to fix you up with what you need a lot cheaper than paying to ship something that small from an internet source.

Like I said, I'm sure someone will curse me just for suggesting such a drastic solution. But it is just my opinion, and not something you HAVE to do (unless of course, you already stripped out the threads in the crank case). No matter what you decide to do, good luck.

Paul
 
As far as stripping the threads in the case goes, USE a TORQUE wrench if you don't know what 8 foot pounds feels like! Ray.
 
not sure whats available at mcmaster-carr in terms of ss quality but down here we can get ss bolts with tensile strenght above that of the 8.8 steel, so very appropriate for this particular application (and many others on our bikes)
 
just to note a 8.8 metric is equivalent to a grade 5 in SAE.
 
Paul_IOFJS said:
As for the studs or bolts themselves, just take the old one in to you local CarQuest or NAPA auto parts store or even Ace or True Value hardware stores, and the friendly folks there should be able to fix you up with what you need a lot cheaper than paying to ship something that small from an internet source.
Click to expand...

I took the stud down to a Fastenal last week... What a joke, the kid behind the counter asked ME what size it was. Then after diddling in the book for a couple of minutes actually asked me what it was for!

I said, "Dude... Its just an unequal length stud. It could be for a million things."

I ordered studs and nuts from McMaster yesterday. M6x1.0x37.5, like I listed in a previous post. I will let you all know how they compare to the stock studs.
 
one problem with using studs from the bolt shops that i found is that they are usually made acoording to the standards applicable for steel application, not aluminium

the oem studs are made to go into aluminium and that application requires a minimum lenght of the stud to be twice its diameter - 12mm, whereas the application for steel only requires the lenght equivalent of one stud diameter - 6mm

that picture posted above suggests that those studs have the smaller threaded part only 6.25mm (meaning, made for steel use, not aluminium)


however, sometimes the studs can be "inverted" so that the longer portion goes into the crankcase (this depends on the lenght of thread on the other side of the stud)


let us know how you go
 
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psyguy said:
one problem with using studs from the bolt shops that i found is that they are usually made acoording to the standards applicable for steel application, not aluminium

the oem studs are made to go into aluminium and that application requires a minimum lenght of the stud to be twice its diameter - 12mm, whereas the application for steel only requires the lenght equivalent of one stud diameter - 6mm

that picture posted above suggests that those studs have the smaller threaded part only 6.25mm (meaning, made for steel use, not aluminium)


however, sometimes the studs can be "inverted" so that the longer portion goes into the crankcase (this depends on the lenght of thread on the other side of the stud)


let us know how you go
Click to expand...

Well thats just totally wrong, sorry. The existing studs in my bike had the short ends inserted into the aluminum. I am sure its factory suzuki stuff.
 
CB900SS said:
Well thats just totally wrong, sorry. The existing studs in my bike had the short ends inserted into the aluminum. I am sure its factory suzuki stuff.
Click to expand...

Your existing studs did, in fact, have the short ends in the aluminum, and they can be inverted so the longer end is in the aluminum as stated......not wrong at all.:)
 
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