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Got a carb syncing tool. This is what it told me.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Did you calibrate all of the gauges prior to starting the sync?

Those readings are not close enough, so adjust away
 
What did you adjust? Those gauges usually have a small brass screw you can manually move the needles with to get them all at the same reading BEFORE hooking them to the bike. Secondly, you need to dampen the lines better so the needles dont wobble around. Sync at around 2,000 RPM and blip the throttle 2 or 3 times then recheck the needles..readust if need be. Then run it up to about 4,000 and hold it for a few seconds and see where they are at "riding" RPMs.
 
The engine speed is too high.

The vacuum levels are not synchronized.

Not sure why it died at the end.

Lastly, Carbtune might sue you for using their name on that gauge set. That is NOT a Carbtune.

.
 
In your video just before you cranked it i froze the video. i can clearly see that only one needle is on zero. unscrew the lenses and turn that little screw with the slot and get all 4 needles setting exactly on zero and try again.
And they look a lot like the blue Emgo gauges
 
chuck hahn said:
In your video just before you cranked it i froze the video. i can clearly see that only one needle is on zero. unscrew the lenses and turn that little screw with the slot and get all 4 needles setting exactly on zero and try again.
And they look a lot like the blue Emgo gauges
Click to expand...

Which one? 1, 2, 3, or 4? I hooked it up and turned on the engine, none of the needles moved. So I then adjusted each knob until the needles moved, then tightened the knobs so the needles weren't all over the place. They each settled in the red zone. And yeah, I believe they are, some offshoot or something.

@Steve I know, that's just the word that came to mind. I'm not branding it, that's just what I called it at the time of typing. I'm from Texas, where every soda is Coke, every printer paper is Xerox, and every facial tissue is Kleenex.
It died because I pushed the choke in.
I set the idle screw to just touching the mixture screw hole, which I heard is a good baseline idle.
When I originally started it, it only ran around 1,000 RPM with choke fully out. After a while, it caught up. It does then when I take the gas tank off and the carbs are empty. Trying the method you told me about by turning the petcock didn't do anything this time, so I had to spray fuel through the airbox.
 
chuck hahn said:
What did you adjust? Those gauges usually have a small brass screw you can manually move the needles with to get them all at the same reading BEFORE hooking them to the bike. Secondly, you need to dampen the lines better so the needles dont wobble around. Sync at around 2,000 RPM and blip the throttle 2 or 3 times then recheck the needles..readust if need be. Then run it up to about 4,000 and hold it for a few seconds and see where they are at "riding" RPMs.
Click to expand...

How would I know they're at the same setting if I have no visual indication while they're off the bike?
All I've been able to see are videos online, I've never done something like this before...
 
Last edited:
As for the rattling sound you hear, that's one of the metal covers that goes over the exhaust pipes, near where they branch underneath. I lost the screw that went in there, so that knocks around when it revs above 3,000. I need to get a replacement screw for that.

If anyone has Discord and would be willing to video call me and walk me through it, that would help.
 
Did you read all my post? the faces should unscrew and you MANUALLY set all 4 needles to be exactly on the zero point before even hooking them to the bike. And yes once you start the bike you use the dampener things to get the needles steady..then you proceed with syncing.
 
chuck hahn said:
Did you read all my post? the faces should unscrew and you MANUALLY set all 4 needles to be exactly on the zero point before even hooking them to the bike. And yes once you start the bike you use the dampener things to get the needles steady..then you proceed with syncing.
Click to expand...

I've tried that. It's hard for me to feel exactly when they set and start to tighten. I can't find the zone between "off" and "loose seat."
Also, one of the channels has a section broken off, so one of the mixture screws nearly falls out when it is loose enough.
 
Actually, I believe you need to adjust the dials as d scribed, then hook them up one at a time to a single cylinder to calibrate them to one another.
 
Plus, you have to have your bike actually running to sync.

Starting fluid and choke? You need more carb cleaning
 
Big T said:
Actually, I believe you need to adjust the dials as d scribed, then hook them up one at a time to a single cylinder to calibrate them to one another.
Click to expand...

Which is the main carb that all the others are based off of? #3?
 
Big T said:
Plus, you have to have your bike actually running to sync.

Starting fluid and choke? You need more carb cleaning
Click to expand...

I took it apart and sprayed carb cleaner into all the holes and blew them out with compressed air. It couldn't get any cleaner.
Even after I had it professionally cleaned, it still ran rough. That's why I'm thinking it's the valves. I'm also going to try to find a better cap for the vacuum port, and see if that helps. I'll try it again tomorrow, weather permitting.
 
ZombiePotatoSalad said:
Which is the main carb that all the others are based off of? #3?
Click to expand...

Yes, #3

But, I was referring to the gauges. You need to calibrate them from one source, so that you know they are showing the same amount of vacuum

Then you can hook up and sync
 
Big T said:
Yes, #3

But, I was referring to the gauges. You need to calibrate them from one source, so that you know they are showing the same amount of vacuum

Then you can hook up and sync
Click to expand...

So, whatever #3 lands on, I have to match the others to?
Remember, I'm autistic, and I've never done this before. I may need it explained with more detail. I've seen a couple videos, and I followed what was shown.
 
Make sure the engine is up to temperature and is idling nicely on its own before you do carb sync. It sounds like, from what you were saying, that you were trying to sync them with the choke on.
 
londonboards said:
Make sure the engine is up to temperature and is idling nicely on its own before you do carb sync. It sounds like, from what you were saying, that you were trying to sync them with the choke on.
Click to expand...

That's the only way it will run.
And yes, I've cleaned the carbs. The pathways were unobstructed. Blew compressed air through all the holes.
 
ZombiePotatoSalad said:
That's the only way it will run.
And yes, I've cleaned the carbs. The pathways were unobstructed. Blew compressed air through all the holes.
Click to expand...

You're ahead of yourself. If it won't idle without the "choke" it is not time to sync the carbs yet.

Carb cleaner and compressed air is not how you clean these carbs.
Follow the instructions for a proper dip clean, which I am sure someone has linked you already.
Adjust the valves. Start over.

Is there no one near Davenport that can help this young man?
 
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