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grumble grumble BRAKES flaring filthin grumble..

  • Thread starter Thread starter TheCafeKid
  • Start date Start date
T

TheCafeKid

Guest
So anyone have any tips on priming and filling a rear brake system? I tried simply running my MityVac on the bleeder at the caliper, filling the res and pumping away....nothing...its not sucking anything. I REALLY dont want to have to take this assembly apart and prime it by hand. Any ideas??
 
TheCafeKid said:
So anyone have any tips on priming and filling a rear brake system? I tried simply running my MityVac on the bleeder at the caliper, filling the res and pumping away....nothing...its not sucking anything. I REALLY dont want to have to take this assembly apart and prime it by hand. Any ideas??
Click to expand...

Josh, do you have a good seal at the bleeder? I always get leaks with the MityVac. Try wrapping 5-7 wraps of teflon tape on the bleeder nipple to see if it helps get a good seal.

Thanks,
Joe
 
Joe Nardy said:
Josh, do you have a good seal at the bleeder? I always get leaks with the MityVac. Try wrapping 5-7 wraps of teflon tape on the bleeder nipple to see if it helps get a good seal.

Thanks,
Joe
Click to expand...
Thanks Joe I had sort of thought of that. Hadnt done it, because the pump was holding vac pressure, even tho nothing was coming from the line itself. I will give it a shot however.
 
Um, might vac worked for me... Teflon tape on the bleeder to get a better vacuum? Pull vacuum, them pump the pedal? It's been a few months now, I don't remember if I did that. That reminds me, I need to re-bleed that before WV...
 
Yeah, this thing sat, caliper-less for a while. Im starting to worry that the line dried out and collapsed, causing my problem.
 
There's also an o-ring between the caliper halves, too: that might be a place for a vacuum leak, as well as the afore mentioned bleeder threads. Your mity-vac should pull through just about anything.
 
Hey, make sure the hole on the bleeder screw isin't smashed or clogged. Sometimes bleeder screws get overtightened and the hole just past the taper gets squeezed closed.
 
dirtyfingers said:
Hey, make sure the hole on the bleeder screw isin't smashed or clogged. Sometimes bleeder screws get overtightened and the hole just past the taper gets squeezed closed.
Click to expand...

Yes, this. And the teflon pipe tape.
 
Why not just bleed it the old fashioned way?

Your bike is not a car and does not require a mityvac to bleed the brakes as the lines are short and not split to 2/4 different locations. I completely flushed/replaced the fluid and bled the front and rear in less than an hour by myself with a bottle of fluid and one of the cheap one-way brake bleeder valves available at the auto parts stores. Being able to pump the brakes with one hand and wrangle the bleed screw with the other at the same time is a nice feature.

The mityvac just seems like overkill for a motorcycle.
 
buddha said:
Why not just bleed it the old fashioned way?

Your bike is not a car and does not require a mityvac to bleed the brakes as the lines are short and not split to 2/4 different locations. I completely flushed/replaced the fluid and bled the front and rear in less than an hour by myself with a bottle of fluid and one of the cheap one-way brake bleeder valves available at the auto parts stores. Being able to pump the brakes with one hand and wrangle the bleed screw with the other at the same time is a nice feature.

The mityvac just seems like overkill for a motorcycle.
Click to expand...
Uhmmm cause im not trying to just BLEED it, im trying to prime the master that is empty... thanks for that tho.
 
If you're trying to bleed motorcycle brakes after emptying the system (post-rebuild, for example), you usually CANNOT pump enough fluid by hand. If you do a good job of bench bleeding the master, you MIGHT be able to but it will take a while.

The Mityvac is cheap, effective, and saves a lot of time.

I bought a syringe style outfit that's supposed to help with brake bleeding by pushing fluid through the bleeder screw, but in real life it doesn't work worth a crap.
 
Last edited:
bwringer said:
If you're trying to bleed motorcycle brakes after emptying the system (post-rebuild, for example), you usually CANNOT pump enough fluid by hand. If you do a good job of bench bleeding the master, you MIGHT be able to but it will take a while.

The Mityvac is cheap, effective, and saves a lot of time.

I bought a syringe style outfit that's supposed to help with brake bleeding by pushing fluid through the bleeder screw, but in real life it doesn't work worth a crap.
Click to expand...
Thats my prob, the mityvac wont suck the fluid thru the res into the master... It looks like I will be pulling it off... PITA!
 
So do you pull it .. and open the bleeder .. and let gravity do it's thing ?
 
mriddle said:
So do you pull it .. and open the bleeder .. and let gravity do it's thing ?
Click to expand...
Well, you can. I however usually pull the top banjo off the MC, and pour fluid into the system directly, then plunge it out by hand with my thumb over the banjo hole. Works pretty good.. just messy as hell..
 
Makes a lot more sense ..


TheCafeKid said:
Well, you can. I however usually pull the top banjo off the MC, and pour fluid into the system directly, then plunge it out by hand with my thumb over the banjo hole. Works pretty good.. just messy as hell..
Click to expand...
 
blowerbike said:
josh,
do you want me and crackwrapper to come over there and fix your brakes?;)
Click to expand...

heh.
you know, i would try it, but i have this strange fear of messing with brakes when i have no idea what i am doing... weird, huh? :o
 
TheCafeKid said:
Well, you can. I however usually pull the top banjo off the MC, and pour fluid into the system directly, then plunge it out by hand with my thumb over the banjo hole. Works pretty good.. just messy as hell..
Click to expand...

Josh,

Are you talking about priming or bench bleeding the master? I found a much cleaner way to do this. I found a piece of clear hose that fit very snugly into the master banjo bolt hole, so snugly that I could actually screw it in. I used about six inches of hose, clamped the master into a vise then worked the piston in and out. This way it can suck fluid back in and you can easily see if there are any air bubbles.

Thanks,
Joe
 
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